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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 Nissan Rogue AWD. I suspect the pressure switch is faulty. I have located one pressure switch on top of the drier which looks like it is on the high side. Is there a second pressure switch located anywhere on the low side?

Thanks for any response.
 

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There are no pressure switches on any year Rogue. The wart on the receiver/dryer is a sensor, the ECM reads it and tells the IPDM to kill the compressor if the sensor voltage is too high or too low. On an '11, the yellow wire is sensor data, blue is 5V power, white is ground. The sensors usually "flatline" at 0V when they die, static readings with the compressor off are usually a little above 1V.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There are no pressure switches on any year Rogue. The wart on the receiver/dryer is a sensor, the ECM reads it and tells the IPDM to kill the compressor if the sensor voltage is too high or too low. On an '11, the yellow wire is sensor data, blue is 5V power, white is ground. The sensors usually "flatline" at 0V when they die, static readings with the compressor off are usually a little above 1V.
Thank you very much. I really appreciate the information!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok, so I replaced the sensor on top of the drier and I still have no A/C. I found out how to do a self-test on the IPDM and when it comes to the part where it is supposed to send voltage to the A/C clutch, I don't hear anything. I also put a meter on the connector at the compressor to confirm that there is no voltage being sent. The A/C compressor is new and I have a full charge of refrigerant. I suspect maybe that the solid state relay in the IPDM has failed so I have a used replacement that I want to try. I have read that once you replace the IPDM, it has to be reprogrammed (at least in the 2014 and newer models). Can anyone confirm this for the 2011 rogue?
 

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There are 4 different subsystems involved in turning on the A/C, the A/C Auto Amp, the BCM, the ECM, and then the IPDM. So tossing parts at it is likely to be a bad idea. Here's the way it works: When you press the A/C button on the panel, the Amp sends a compressor-on request to the BCM on a dedicated signal wire. If the signal wire for the Blower is also on, the BCM passes the request to the ECM via CANbus. The ECM monitors the A/C pressure, engine temperature, and throttle condition, and can veto the request if any of those are out of bounds. If everything is good, the ECM signals the IPDM via CANbus to turn on the compressor. There's also an Intake Temperature sensor attached to the evap, monitored by the Auto Amp. If that sensor fails open-circuit and the Amp thinks the evap is already cold, the compressor will never come on. On an Auto A/C system, the Ambient and In-Car temperature sensors can also cause that. So your problem can be at any step in that process.

The point is, you really need to get the system scanned with a streaming scanner that can show the temperature sensors, pressure reading, and various request signals. The A/C Relay in the IPDM can fail, but it's rare, so you'll do yourself no favors throwing expensive parts at it without proper diag.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
There are 4 different subsystems involved in turning on the A/C, the A/C Auto Amp, the BCM, the ECM, and then the IPDM. So tossing parts at it is likely to be a bad idea. Here's the way it works: When you press the A/C button on the panel, the Amp sends a compressor-on request to the BCM on a dedicated signal wire. If the signal wire for the Blower is also on, the BCM passes the request to the ECM via CANbus. The ECM monitors the A/C pressure, engine temperature, and throttle condition, and can veto the request if any of those are out of bounds. If everything is good, the ECM signals the IPDM via CANbus to turn on the compressor. There's also an Intake Temperature sensor attached to the evap, monitored by the Auto Amp. If that sensor fails open-circuit and the Amp thinks the evap is already cold, the compressor will never come on. On an Auto A/C system, the Ambient and In-Car temperature sensors can also cause that. So your problem can be at any step in that process.

The point is, you really need to get the system scanned with a streaming scanner that can show the temperature sensors, pressure reading, and various request signals. The A/C Relay in the IPDM can fail, but it's rare, so you'll do yourself no favors throwing expensive parts at it without proper diag.
Thank you again for the response! I take it that a dealership can scan it with a streaming scanner? I am not familiar to what that is. Also, since I already have an IPDM to try, do you think I should give that a shot? IT should only take about 20 minutes if no programming is required (not sure if programming is needed). That would be the last part I would throw at it before taking it to get scanned.

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my issue. This problem has been very frustrating! I also appreciate to complete explanation of the A/C logic.
 

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Thank you again for the response! I take it that a dealership can scan it with a streaming scanner? I am not familiar to what that is. Also, since I already have an IPDM to try, do you think I should give that a shot? IT should only take about 20 minutes if no programming is required (not sure if programming is needed). That would be the last part I would throw at it before taking it to get scanned.

Thank you so much for taking the time to respond to my issue. This problem has been very frustrating! I also appreciate to complete explanation of the A/C logic.
You're most welcome. The IPDM on an '11 is plug-and-play, so yes, you might as well try it since you have it on hand. The dealership can definitely scan it with the Consult3+, but other high-end scanners like the SnapOn Solus can also do it. So you're not necessarily limited to a Nissan dealer.
 
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