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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2011 Nissan Quest with 145000 miles. We recently replaced the alternator after it died and limped off to the side of the road. This is a dangerous issue because it happens at intersections and it causes the van to just creep. It happened to me twice and to my wife once. I didn't think much of the first alternator failure other than it cost me $800 because it is in a terrible spot. A local shop put it in because the closest Nissan dealership is 50 miles away. The first replacement lasted two days and then died, I assumed it was a bad part( it happens). Now I just got it back and drove 10 miles and this second alternator failed. Has anyone else seen this before?
 

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The alternator shouldn't make the vehicle go limp unless your battery is bad. If the battery is charged you should be able to drive for miles before it craps out, even with the headlights on. I think you're suffering from a misdiagnosis.
 

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I have a 2011 Nissan Quest with 145000 miles. We recently replaced the alternator after it died and limped off to the side of the road. This is a dangerous issue because it happens at intersections and it causes the van to just creep. It happened to me twice and to my wife once. I didn't think much of the first alternator failure other than it cost me $800 because it is in a terrible spot. A local shop put it in because the closest Nissan dealership is 50 miles away. The first replacement lasted two days and then died, I assumed it was a bad part( it happens). Now I just got it back and drove 10 miles and this second alternator failed. Has anyone else seen this before?
When replacing electrical components such as alternators, starters and distributors, fuel injectors and sensors, always replace with new or reman'd Nissan OEM components; aftermarket components generally don't last long, don't work right and many times are DOA.

A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts. A battery should have a static charge of 12.3-12.8 volts with the engine not running. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The alternator shouldn't make the vehicle go limp unless your battery is bad. If the battery is charged you should be able to drive for miles before it craps out, even with the headlights on. I think you're suffering from a misdiagnosis.
Thank you, I assume you are right. I did change the battery the first time I changed the alternator because it was older. I was hoping that someone here would have a similar experience and could tell me their solution. 😉
 

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Thank you, I assume you are right. I did change the battery the first time I changed the alternator because it was older. I was hoping that someone here would have a similar experience and could tell me their solution. 😉
You're most welcome. First thing is, get it scanned. There aren't many things that can make the van die in the middle of the road without the ECM complaining, and even then a lack of codes will tell you a lot of things it can't be. Most parts stores will scan your ECM and ABS free if you don't own a scanner. Post the codes (or the lack of them) and we can offer some opinions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update, mechanic said there were no codes in the system, and the alternator is bad again. He is going to call a local Nissan dealership for help and maybe put an OEM alternator on. I will keep everyone updated. Thank you
 
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