Nissan Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello-- I recently bought a 2011 Nissan Frontier (170,000 mi.)
About two weeks after purchasing, the BRAKE, ABS, VDC off, SLIP lights came on after about 15 feet of driving or getting above 2RPMs. The driving isn't affected much, besides feeling a little less powerful.

I got a fix finder report and the computer in the vehicle is coming up as a 2011 XTERRA. You heard that right... Someone must've swapped out the engine/computer before I purchased it.

I am searching for help on how to fix this; I'm not a savvy mechanic/fixer-upper.

I have attached images of the Dashboard lights, the proof that it's a Frontier (lol), and the Fix Finder Report.

Can anyone check the report and provide recommendations on how to get this fixed?


Speedometer Gauge Measuring instrument Font Data storage device

Font Parallel Document Paper Circle
Wheel Automotive parking light Tire Car Land vehicle
 

Attachments

·
Admin and Sup Mod keeping the peace
Joined
·
8,372 Posts
What piece of software is this "fix finder"? Something that AutoZone offers?

Since you're getting the BRAKE, ABS, VDC off, SLIP lights coming on, there may be a problem with the charging system. A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts. A battery should have a static charge of 12.3-12.8 volts with the engine shut off. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight.

When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!

Also perform an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see what fault codes are set. The tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Post the actual codes here on the forum so that we may be able to help you further. If there is one or more fault codes set, they can help point to the malfunction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
What piece of software is this "fix finder"? Something that AutoZone offers?

Since you're getting the BRAKE, ABS, VDC off, SLIP lights coming on, there may be a problem with the charging system. A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts. A battery should have a static charge of 12.3-12.8 volts with the engine shut off. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight.

When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!

Also perform an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see what fault codes are set. The tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Post the actual codes here on the forum so that we may be able to help you further. If there is one or more fault codes set, they can help point to the malfunction.

You're the man! I will look at the connection of these wires to the back of the alternator and see if there's any corrosion disturbing the circuit. When I turn the ignition to "ON", without starting the engine, the red battery symbol pops up like it should.

To answer your initial question, yes the Fix Finder is a free AutoZone report that they printed after plugging their device into my vehicle. Are the fault codes you mentioned the same as the Diagnostic trouble codes listed on that report?

If so, the codes are P0101, C1163, C1140.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,988 Posts
Uh oh, P0101 again. It's a performance code and probably not a bad MAF. There's a bulletin for an ECM reprogram, NTB12-051:
The C1163 means your Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) lost its memory and needs to be relcalibrated.
The C1140 might be more serious, it's for the built-in Actuator Relay inside the ABS Controller. It can be caused by a low battery, so see if it will erase and if it comes back.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Uh oh, P0101 again. It's a performance code and probably not a bad MAF. There's a bulletin for an ECM reprogram, NTB12-051:
The C1163 means your Steering Angle Sensor (SAS) lost its memory and needs to be relcalibrated.
The C1140 might be more serious, it's for the built-in Actuator Relay inside the ABS Controller. It can be caused by a low battery, so see if it will erase and if it comes back.
Thanks for the reply! I appreciate everyone's willingness on these forums.
I'm not the savviest car person and don't have a ton of equipment to perform work or checks on the vehicle.

How might I go about reprogramming P0101, recalibrating C1163, and erasing C1140. Sorry I'm not more knowledgable about this stuff.

Are there any reliable videos or tutorials on this stuff? I just don't know where to begin so explain to me like I'm your son or something haha (if you have the time!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,988 Posts
You can recalibrate the SAS and clear the C1140 yourself with an ABS-capable scanner, but the ECM repro is a dealer job. Since your ECM apparently has an Xterra VIN recorded in it, you probably want to have them check that while they're doing the repro. It will only take them a few minutes to correct it if it's wrong.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
What piece of software is this "fix finder"? Something that AutoZone offers?

Since you're getting the BRAKE, ABS, VDC off, SLIP lights coming on, there may be a problem with the charging system. A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts. A battery should have a static charge of 12.3-12.8 volts with the engine shut off. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight.

When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECM memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!

Also perform an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see what fault codes are set. The tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores. Post the actual codes here on the forum so that we may be able to help you further. If there is one or more fault codes set, they can help point to the malfunction.
I have a 2010 model and this started two days ago for me. I can kill the engine and restart it and the lights are off. When I put it in gear and start moving everything is okay until I reach a speed of 15 mph then the lights pop on again. I checked it for codes and there is none. I've checked the brake fluid level and it's full as I have read that could cause the lights to come on. I'm going to check my battery connections in the morning since I did replace my battery and the fusible links on positive post 2 months ago.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,988 Posts
I have a 2010 model and this started two days ago for me. I can kill the engine and restart it and the lights are off. When I put it in gear and start moving everything is okay until I reach a speed of 15 mph then the lights pop on again. I checked it for codes and there is none. I've checked the brake fluid level and it's full as I have read that could cause the lights to come on. I'm going to check my battery connections in the morning since I did replace my battery and the fusible links on positive post 2 months ago.
Is your scanner capable of reading the ABS and ABS-related systems like the AWD? The fact that the lights pop on at a certain speed tends toward a wheel or drivetrain problem, and there's pretty much nothing which can cause those lights without a DTC being thrown somewhere in the vehicle. Chances are your scanner just isn't seeing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Is your scanner capable of reading the ABS and ABS-related systems like the AWD? The fact that the lights pop on at a certain speed tends toward a wheel or drivetrain problem, and there's pretty much nothing which can cause those lights without a DTC being thrown somewhere in the vehicle. Chances are your scanner just isn't seeing it.
I will take it to O'Reilly's and see if they can pull a code. Thank you for pointing me in the right direction.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Is your scanner capable of reading the ABS and ABS-related systems like the AWD? The fact that the lights pop on at a certain speed tends toward a wheel or drivetrain problem, and there's pretty much nothing which can cause those lights without a DTC being thrown somewhere in the vehicle. Chances are your scanner just isn't seeing it.
Ok the codes are C1164, C1140, and I think the last one was C1165. Strange thing is that the lights went off as soon as the scanner got done reading them. The tech said that he didn't clear the codes out. Afterwards I left and sure enough the lights came back again. I made two more stops in town and each time the lights pop on when I reach 15mph. I made one more stop and when I started the truck and reached cruising speed they did NOT come back on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,988 Posts
That's bad news. Basically one of the ABS internal relays is sticking and disabling the Cut Valves (CV1/CV2) that disconnect the Master Cylinder from the ABS to allow the ABS to work. C1140 by itself is a "low voltage" code, but there aren't really any power or ground conditions that could cause C1164/C1165 without also causing C1166/C1167 for the paired SV's (Shut Valves). That means the CV relay itself is the problem, so I'm afraid you have a bad ABS Unit.
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top