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They cut was a manual key and it worked. It may be different now and also in current case the cylider is new also. My question still is even if I re-key and/or re-program do I need to do it with the original IMMU attached to the new cylinder or wit the one that came with the new unit or doesn't matter. (this is all too much for a car that i bought only six weeks ago!:()
There are two kinds of inductive smart key, with buttons and without. We call the ones with buttons on them "lollipops", but both kinds can be coded to start your car. The non-lollipop smart keys have a black plastic head, plain steel keys generally have no head, just metal. If your ignition cylinder came with an IMMU, then it should also have come with the smart type key. The IMMU will get mated to the ECM and the keys whenever keys get programmed, so you can use any good IMMU and any good keys. If both of your IMMU's are good, then it shouldn't matter which one is on the car when you program it.
 

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There are two kinds of inductive smart key, with buttons and without. We call the ones with buttons on them "lollipops", but both kinds can be coded to start your car. The non-lollipop smart keys have a black plastic head, plain steel keys generally have no head, just metal. If your ignition cylinder came with an IMMU, then it should also have come with the smart type key. The IMMU will get mated to the ECM and the keys whenever keys get programmed, so you can use any good IMMU and any good keys. If both of your IMMU's are good, then it shouldn't matter which one is on the car when you program it.

The original key is a black head key with a separate door lock/un-lock operator.
The new key that came with the ignition lock cylinder I bought is a black head key and no remote operator piece.
In any case, I called a mobile lock Smith, he came and said the new key that came with the unit I bought is already locked. I have no clue how these new systems work so, I took his word, besides I desperately need the car. He cut and programmed/coded? a new key ($250) and the car starts now. I wanted a second key but he wanted another $180, so I didn’t get one. I will look to see if I can find a lower price for a spare somewhere else.
Thank you (and anybody else who provided comments and help) for staying engaged with the issue. I very much appreciate that. Peace & stay safe!
 

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Thank you (and anybody else who provided comments and help) for staying engaged with the issue. I very much appreciate that. Peace & stay safe!
You're most welcome. Glad you got it straightened away, although I'm sad that it cost so much. The cylinder vendor probably sent you a counterfeit key with no smartwork in it, those keys don't "lock out" like an I-key would. They only behave that way if they're counterfeit or dead. But all's well that ends well, happy motoring! :)
 
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