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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have tried to diagnose this problem I have checked the VVT's and the resistance was 7.5 and 7.6 and was wondering could the resistance be good but the solenoid will be bad? The wiring is good the timing is good the flywheel is in the correct spot and I have installed new sensors from the Nissan dealership. ( Crankshaft sensor and Both Camshaft sensors) The oil is at the correct level and the oil is clean. I have put Pennzoil 5W-30 in with a K&N oil filter. I checked the ports where the oil goes to the solenoids and they're clean as well as the screens that are on the solenoids no sludge no nothing on them. My question is it common for a solenoid to have good continuity but not work? Also the car does run perfectly fine starts right up and idle like its suppose to, all I'm trying to do is remove these codes from coming up in the future.
 

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Check the power side of the solenoids for 12V and the ground (ECM) sides for a voltage that changes when the motor is gunned. If you have both, then the solenoids are electrically healthy and the problem is mechanical or hydraulic. Since it's both banks, it's possible the main timing chain is jumped. You can check that with a scanner that can stream IVT angle, they should both be near 0 at idle and rise momentarily as you gun the engine.

Honestly, I'd be much more concerned about the catalyst codes. Nissan engines use Miller cycling to avoid the need for an EGR valve, essentially using valve overlap to suck a bit of exhaust back into the intake charge. That means if a cat disintegrates, the engine will inhale a cloud of melted metal and the affected rings and cylinder bores will be toast. It's fatal 100% of the time. You need new cats in a hurry, they don't last long once they start throwing "efficiency" codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Check the power side of the solenoids for 12V and the ground (ECM) sides for a voltage that changes when the motor is gunned. If you have both, then the solenoids are electrically healthy and the problem is mechanical or hydraulic. Since it's both banks, it's possible the main timing chain is jumped. You can check that with a scanner that can stream IVT angle, they should both be near 0 at idle and rise momentarily as you gun the engine.

Honestly, I'd be much more concerned about the catalyst codes. Nissan engines use Miller cycling to avoid the need for an EGR valve, essentially using valve overlap to suck a bit of exhaust back into the intake charge. That means if a cat disintegrates, the engine will inhale a cloud of melted metal and the affected rings and cylinder bores will be toast. It's fatal 100% of the time. You need new cats in a hurry, they don't last long once they start throwing "efficiency" codes.
I have changed the timing the first time because I thought it jumped a tooth but it’s not the timing, I am 100% positive that it’s correct also I do not have that equipment for that. Also what do you mean by checking the 12v in the solenoid how do I do that.
 

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With a voltmeter. Also, valve timing and ignition timing are two different things, the ignition timing can be altered in the stock ECM's memory but valve timing is mechanical-hydraulic and isn't alterable except with tuning software. You need a streaming scanner to read it. If you mean you changed the timing chains, hopefully you pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it a bit before starting to build up oil pressure. If not, there's a good chance the main chain jumped from low pressure in the tensioners when the car first fired.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
With a voltmeter. Also, valve timing and ignition timing are two different things, the ignition timing can be altered in the stock ECM's memory but valve timing is mechanical-hydraulic and isn't alterable except with tuning software. You need a streaming scanner to read it. If you mean you changed the timing chains, hopefully you pulled the fuel pump fuse and cranked it a bit before starting to build up oil pressure. If not, there's a good chance the main chain jumped from low pressure in the tensioners when the car first fired.
I did pull the fuse for the fuel pump for it to build up pressure on the tensioner. When I pulled out the solenoids I checked the timing there as well.
 

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Is it possible you missed or dropped an o-ring in the front cover during reassembly? The phasers won't work without full oil pressure. You really need to scan it to see what the ECM is seeing, because whatever the cause, those codes mean it thinks it can't control the cam angle on either bank.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Is it possible you missed or dropped an o-ring in the front cover during reassembly? The phasers won't work without full oil pressure. You really need to scan it to see what the ECM is seeing, because whatever the cause, those codes mean it thinks it can't control the cam angle on either bank.
The timing cover was a thermatex silicone or something like that the seal that goes to the the camshaft for the solenoids are on there and can you show me a link to show me what you’re talking about with the scanner.
 

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2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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Another possibility is a leaking oil gallery cover gasket on the front of the rear timing cover. If you look at the rear cover (part code 13035+A) in the post #10 diagram, you'll see a boomerang-shaped, white area near the bottom of the rear timing cover. There is a cover there with several bolts. The gasket can fail and cause low oil pressure at idle, which triggers the P0011 and P0021 codes. The gasket has been updated and some kits will give you the gaskets and new bolts, but sometimes the bolts can jamb in the threads of the cover and strip them out or break, which will then require a new rear timing cover. To confirm, check the oil pressure at idle with the engine warmed up and compare to service manual specs. If under the specs, there's a good chance that's the problem.
 
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