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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was backing into a parking place and car just died, lost all power lights windows everything couldn't even move the shifter to neutral. Bought a new battery. No change. Is this a problem with the security system or ignition or what is it. Thanks for any help:)
 

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If it was the security system you would have had power to lights, windows, radio, dash display, etc. and been able to crank the engine but not start.

Similarly for the ECU.

No power to anything, and a new battery not making any difference suggest a few things to look for including:
- ground strap for battery has corroded through or snapped
- one of the big fuses immediately below the +ve battery terminal has blown, possibly just from engine heat as opposed to an overload
- the battery terminals are severely corroded and although what you see looks O.K. there is a break in one of them

Why did it happen when you were backing into a parking space? Dunno. Maybe in R at low speed the engine was shaking a bit an engine ground strap to break.
Not being able to move shifter to N I think was just because the shift interlock was not being energized. Again a symptom of no 12V anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
thanks for the help John. it was a fusable link on the side of the battery. I changed it out and it did fine but now it has blown it again. do you have any idea what it could be. I checked the ground strap on the battery and it is fine. Could a bad alternator cause this? It sounds as if it is having a hard time cranking then the fuse blows. any help from anyone would be greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.
 

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Doubt it is the alternator. Nor the starter. Don't think these cars have a history of failure on those.

Could be the electric power steering. If that is drawing excessive current because of high resistance it would explain the fuse blowing when you were backing into a parking spot,
and right after starting the car if you have to turn soon after.

Google for problems with the power steering. I think I have read of some.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
thanks again for the quick replies I have to get this car running. I blew this time as I was starting, will the steering problem still cause that. I bridged the fuse with a screwdriver just to see if the car would start, I know I shouldn't but I did, and it nearly melted the handle. It almost seems like it is pulling too much amperage or something, new battery sounds as if it is almost dead when I crank the engine. big thanks
 

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From your description, you may have two problems. One being a dead short when attempting to start the engine which could point to a bad starter solenoid or a bad starter relay which is located in the IPDM module.

The other problem, a new battery getting discharged rapidly which could be a bad alternator or there is a parasitic draw somewhere in the electrical system. To test for a parasitic draw, check out the following tutorials:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eXX8TfzRAKk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ES-rjFfuxq4

When testing for a parasitic draw, the maximum draw should be 50 milli-amps or less with the car shut off.
 

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If the big 225A fusible link is blowing, the starter is by far the most likely culprit. First, make sure your engine isn't seized. Use a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and see if the engine will turn by hand. If it won't, or if it takes great force to turn it, then the engine is either seized or hydrolocked and the problem isn't electrical. If the engine will turn normally then there are three possible culprits, a shorted brush in the starter, a shorted brush in the alternator, or a short circuit in the big cables to one or the other.
 

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If the big 225A fusible link is blowing, the starter is by far the most likely culprit. First, make sure your engine isn't seized. Use a socket and breaker bar on the crank pulley bolt and see if the engine will turn by hand. If it won't, or if it takes great force to turn it, then the engine is either seized or hydrolocked and the problem isn't electrical. If the engine will turn normally then there are three possible culprits, a shorted brush in the starter, a shorted brush in the alternator, or a short circuit in the big cables to one or the other.
Also I checked the main cable that goes from positive battery to starter to alternator and it’s fine.
 

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The 100A links on an '07 don't feed the starter, one feeds the ABS, Cooling Fans, Audio main power and the Starter Relay, the second feeds the cabin fusebox. A short that blows either one pretty much has to be in the supply wire coming out of the link, because anything further downstream would be popping smaller links or fuses.
 

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The maybe somebody swapped in the wrong battery card. The FSM calls for a 225A main link (a) with sub-links b~e 80A-100A-60A-100A respectively. If you're trying to spin the starter through a 120A main link, that certainly explains it blowing.
 

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The 225 goes direct to both the starter and alternator, so a shorted brush in either one can cause an issue. First thing to do is eliminate the wiring, disconnect the hot cables at all 3 places (starter, alternator, battery) and ohm the wires to ground. Any reading besides infinity means the cable insulation has a problem. The FSM shows the two lines being spliced so you could very well have a short buried in the harness. If that checks out then leave the alternator disconnected and spin the starter, if the fuse pops then the starter is the problem, if it doesn't then it's the alternator. I suggest getting some 200A audio fuses for testing, they're a lot cheaper than replacing link cards.
 

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Sure. Most of them show "OL", which means no contact, infinite resistance. But whatever it reads when red and black aren't touching anything, that's what it will show for infinity.
 
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