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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 02 frontier and when I start to move the truck goes very slow and almost kills. Once I hit about 20mph it stats to move normal. When driving I am at almost 4k rpms and doing about 55-60mph. I was told the clutches may be going out. I want a second answer before I start taking truck apart to fix. It is a 2002 2wd 3.3 engine. Any help is good help, Thanks
 

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Sounds like it's in "limp" mode, 3rd gear is usually the limp-default for Nissan automatic trannies. Have you run codes on it? A standard OBD-II scanner probably won't read the TCM, but if it's limping the ECM should have some "consequential" codes to point you the right way.
 

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Get a scan. You can't go by behavior or symptoms when they're limping, because they stick in 3rd and won't do anything else. Since it will run up to speed on a long runway, I'd say the converter sounds healthy hydraulically, but the lockup won't function in limp so you really can't tell much about ultimate health.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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Sounds like, as mentioned, it's in A/T fail safe mode. IIRC, there's a manual method to get the codes, which will be displayed by the flashes from the overdrive light. The procedure will be in the factory service manual for the vehicle, which Nico Club has for free at their website. The manual also has a symptom chart and instructs how to do stall and line pressure testing to help isolate the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Got code P0705
1 PNP Switch/Circuit
2 Shift Position Sensor Circuit
3 Transmission Range Sensor "A" Circuit (PRNDL InPut)

Going to check all connections and if doesn't work replace the PNP Switch
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also I cant find a dipstick to the trans. Haven't looked on the trans itself yet but should there be a tube going to the top of the engine bay?
 

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Also I cant find a dipstick to the trans. Haven't looked on the trans itself yet but should there be a tube going to the top of the engine bay?
Manny,

Where the AT Dipstick is and HOW to check the AT Fluid Level is in the Nissan Service Manual. There is a Specified Procedure Outlined in The Service Manual for Checking the AT Fluid Level Outlined in the Service Manual. This is Elementary and if you are unwilling or unable to read and study the Service Manual, then IMO You should take your Truck to a Qualified Experienced Nissan Service Mechanic, before you do more harm than good and before it become's too expensive for Repair and eventually wind's up in the Junk Yard.

Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am able to do all the work. I just haven't made it to the auto parts store to get the manual yet. It should all be in the haynes book I am guessing?
 

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I am able to do all the work. I just haven't made it to the auto parts store to get the manual yet. It should all be in the haynes book I am guessing?
Manny,

You'll probly be ok with the Haynes Manual, but I Trust the Geniune Nissan Service Manual More.

You can google 2002 Nissan Frontier Service Manual to find Free Download's, and some of them you can Download and Print Out the Section or part's that you need for Reference out in the Shop or to Study by.

Here's just one that you can purchase the download for $4.45, and you should be able to print out what you need:


I paid 9 $'s for the Nissan Service Manual in PDF, on my '13 Frontier 7 year's ago. I wanted my own copy and be able to Study and Print out what I needed when I needed instead of Depending on another Site that may or may not be accessible when I need it.

Nissan want's the AT Fluid to be checked in a Temperature Range and the Dipstick has a Cold and Hot Range to check the Fluid Level. Seem's to me that Nissan made it more difficult to check the AT Fluid Level and should have given an over night Dead Cold Engine Range, but they didn't do that, so it's a Specific Procedure to follow whether useing the cold Range or the Hot Range. The Dipsitck on the '93 4cyl Hardbody was on the Passenger Side close to the Firewall, and on my '13 6cyl Frontier the same area, but held down with a 10mm bolt and the Dipstick has to be turned 180 Degree's when checking. I don't know why Engineer's turn something Simple into a complex procedure. Maybe they think it's funny, like makeing the Oil Filter Access Hole Too Small for a '13 Frontier. America need's to Wake up and Start makeing more stuff out of Metal instead of Plastic that will last a lot longer, instead of makeing a Fast Buck out of cheap material's.

Regards,
 

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America need's to Wake up and Start makeing more stuff out of Metal instead of Plastic that will last a lot longer, instead of makeing a Fast Buck out of cheap material's.
It's not the materials these days so much as the CAD software. Everything built today from a Tesla to a Versa is designed by smartware to be assembled by robots, not disassembled by people. Plastic is a byproduct, integral pawls are simply much faster to pop into place than screws. Sad but true.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the input. I found the manual online. Seems a lot better then going to autozone and getting the book. I got the PNP Switch and I’m going to change that and see what it’s does. From what I been reading all day seems like that is going to be the problem. If not back to the drawing board. Or maybe the bottom of a river. Thanks all.
 

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You're most welcome! Not sure if this applies to old Frontiers, but many other Nissans, particularly Versas, throw P0705's because of corrosion in the taillights causing a low grade short between the reverse lamp circuit and brake or tail circuits. Most Nissan TCM's monitor the reverse lamps as a double-check on the Range Switch, but they blame the switch and not the lamps when a problem is detected. If your WD's show a reverse lamp signal wired to the TCM, it's very likely your taillamps or wiring are at fault. Nissan range switches are very hardy in general and rarely fail.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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The dipstick is on the passenger side of the engine and has a black rubber knob on the top of it. The only "procedure" is that the vehicle should be warmed-up and parked on a level surface. Some like to cycle through the gears before checking, which I would do if the transmission had just been installed in the vehicle, but I never found it to make much difference, otherwise. If you are replacing the neutral-safety switch, you should know that will have to drop the transmission pan so you can remove the roll pin from the selector shaft and slide it out enough so that you can get the neutral-safety switch out and the new one in. So, you will need a trans pan gasket and between 5 and 7 quarts of ATF (NissanMatic Type "D" ATF or an aftermarket ATF recommended for Dexron II applications; I recommend Valvoline Maxlife Full-synthetic ATF). Nissan recommends getting new trans pan bolts (I believe there's 21 of them), which come from Nissan with sealant on the threads, but that's up to you.
 

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The dipstick is on the passenger side of the engine and has a black rubber knob on the top of it. The only "procedure" is that the vehicle should be warmed-up and parked on a level surface. Some like to cycle through the gears before checking, which I would do if the transmission had just been installed in the vehicle, but I never found it to make much difference, otherwise. If you are replacing the neutral-safety switch, you should know that will have to drop the transmission pan so you can remove the roll pin from the selector shaft and slide it out enough so that you can get the neutral-safety switch out and the new one in. So, you will need a trans pan gasket and between 5 and 7 quarts of ATF (NissanMatic Type "D" ATF or an aftermarket ATF recommended for Dexron II applications; I recommend Valvoline Maxlife Full-synthetic ATF). Nissan recommends getting new trans pan bolts (I believe there's 21 of them), which come from Nissan with sealant on the threads, but that's up to you.
SMJ,

This is copied from the 2002 Nissan Frontier Service Manual:

""Checking A/T Fluid NEMA0030 1. Warm up engine. 2. Check for fluid leakage. 3. Before driving, fluid level can be checked at fluid temperatures of 30 to 50°C (86 to 122°F) using “COLD” range on dipstick. a. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake. b. Start engine and move selector lever through each gear position. Leave selector lever in “P” position. c. Check fluid level with engine idling. d. Remove dipstick and note reading. If level is at low side of either range, and fluid to the charging pipe. e. Re-insert dipstick into charging pipe as far as it will go. f. Remove dipstick and note reading. If reading is at low side of range, add fluid to the charging pipe. Do not overfill. 4. Drive vehicle for approximately 5 minutes in urban areas. 5. Re-check fluid level at fluid temperatures of 50 to 80°C (122 to 176°F) using “HOT” range on dipstick. ""

I have found whether or not the Gear Shifter isn't moved through all the gear's that it defininitely make's a Difference in the fluid level on the dipstick. Not only that notice that it give's a Temperature Range to check @ in the cold and hot range. This is basically the same procedure that was given for the '93 4cyl at hardbody that I had for 20 year's and alway's wondered why the fluid level was different at different time's of the year. Now that I have a Scangauge II with the ATF Temperature Gauge's, I know why now. It is because at different time's of the year the Ambient Temperature is different, and it definitely make's a difference in the Fluid level on the Dipstick, whether useing the Cold Range or the Hot Range. When checking the ATF Level @ say 40F and 90F can make a pretty big difference on the dipstick. I wasn't aware of this until I started useing the Scangauge II available now for the Newer gen 2 Frontier's. Amazingly in the Winter Time the ATF Temperature rarely get's to 149F Degree's during 20 mile trip to Walmart weekly for grocerie's. 149F Degree's is the Temperature given to check the ATF Level useing the Hot Range on my 2013 4 Liter Frontier King Cab with the 2.937 Rear Axle Ratio. Maybe because the Transmission isn't turning very fast in Over Drive. Only during the Hot Summer Time can I check the ATF Level useing the Hot Range @ 149F Degrees. Mine run's really cool, but I'm sure if I was pulling the utility trailer with any kind of weight, it would run hotter.

Only reason I'm bringing this to your attention, is that Nissan say's not to OverFill. Being a Professional Mechanic and a Past Master Tech @ Nissan, You know more about this stuff than I ever will, but wanted to bring this to your attention.

Regards,
 

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Discussion Starter #16
To change the switch will I need to take the trans completely out. Or can i just drop the crossmember and remove drive shaft and let it tilt down.
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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To change the switch will I need to take the trans completely out. Or can i just drop the crossmember and remove drive shaft and let it tilt down.
As I remember, you don't have to lower nor remove the transmission. You remove the pan, remove the roll pin out of the selector lever and slide it out a little to give you enough room to remove the PNP switch, which is attached to the trans case with three small bolts. That said, it's been a while since I did one, but that's how I remember doing it. I don't think the range switch replacement will have any effect on your slow take-off issue, however, but I've been wrong before. ;)
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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SMJ,

This is copied from the 2002 Nissan Frontier Service Manual:

""Checking A/T Fluid NEMA0030 1. Warm up engine. 2. Check for fluid leakage. 3. Before driving, fluid level can be checked at fluid temperatures of 30 to 50°C (86 to 122°F) using “COLD” range on dipstick. a. Park vehicle on level surface and set parking brake. b. Start engine and move selector lever through each gear position. Leave selector lever in “P” position. c. Check fluid level with engine idling. d. Remove dipstick and note reading. If level is at low side of either range, and fluid to the charging pipe. e. Re-insert dipstick into charging pipe as far as it will go. f. Remove dipstick and note reading. If reading is at low side of range, add fluid to the charging pipe. Do not overfill. 4. Drive vehicle for approximately 5 minutes in urban areas. 5. Re-check fluid level at fluid temperatures of 50 to 80°C (122 to 176°F) using “HOT” range on dipstick. ""

I have found whether or not the Gear Shifter isn't moved through all the gear's that it defininitely make's a Difference in the fluid level on the dipstick. Not only that notice that it give's a Temperature Range to check @ in the cold and hot range. This is basically the same procedure that was given for the '93 4cyl at hardbody that I had for 20 year's and always wondered why the fluid level was different at different time's of the year. Now that I have a Scangauge II with the ATF Temperature Gauge's, I know why now. It is because at different time's of the year the Ambient Temperature is different, and it definitely make's a difference in the Fluid level on the Dipstick, whether using the Cold Range or the Hot Range. When checking the ATF Level @ say 40F and 90F can make a pretty big difference on the dipstick. I wasn't aware of this until I started using the Scangauge II available now for the Newer gen 2 Frontier's. Amazingly in the Winter Time the ATF Temperature rarely get's to 149F Degree's during 20 mile trip to Walmart weekly for groceries. 149F Degree's is the Temperature given to check the ATF Level using the Hot Range on my 2013 4 Liter Frontier King Cab with the 2.937 Rear Axle Ratio. Maybe because the Transmission isn't turning very fast in Over Drive. Only during the Hot Summer Time can I check the ATF Level using the Hot Range @ 149F Degrees. Mine run's really cool, but I'm sure if I was pulling the utility trailer with any kind of weight, it would run hotter.

Only reason I'm bringing this to your attention, is that Nissan say's not to Overfill. Being a Professional Mechanic and a Past Master Tech @ Nissan, You know more about this stuff than I ever will, but wanted to bring this to your attention.

Regards,
Thanks for posting the FSM procedure! I was giving the "layman's version" of it. You shouldn't overfill the transmission, but if one was to accidentally overfill it by a pint or less, it wouldn't make any difference in the transmission operation and performance and I certainly wouldn't bother with trying to drain out the overage. If we were talking about a quart or more, that would be different and the excess should definitely be drained out.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Switch wires melted cause the cats were clogged up. Took them off hollowed them out. (All 4 of them).
Then seen both of the manifolds were blown. Glad that blew instead of the rings. Didn't have to take trans out but defiantly helps lowering the trans. Now I am missing a stud and bolt for the manifold to the cat and 1 short stud and bolt for the manifold to the engine. Went to auto parts store didn't have them so now I am off to Nissan for the hardware. One then just led to another on this job. But truck should run almost like new when done. Thanks for all the input. Ill update when done. Hopefully tonight
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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With the front cats gutted, it may cause catalyst efficiency codes to trigger. You may want to get some O2 sensor spacers (a.k.a. "CEL eliminators") for the rear O2 sensor(s).
 
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