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My 2000 maxima begain running rough and I was getting a rotten egg smell at times, the service engine light was on, so I brought it to my service station, when he put his computer on it he said it looked like a bad cylinder coil,so he changed it and the car runs good except for when I start it when it's cold. The engine will not idle until it gets warm. When I start it, it's ok for about 30 seconds then the rpm's just drop down and it stalls. Today is 5 days since he changed the coil and now my wife tells me the engine light came back on today. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks
 

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did he change one, or all 6 coils?

they're very common to go out on these cars- annoying as hell, and nissan has issued a TSB (tech service bulletin) on this issue and they have upgraded the replacement coils so they shouldn't do this again.

the coils are about $60 each and there's one on each cylinder- you'll need 6 obviously.
if he only replaced one, go ahead and do the other 5- you can do it in 20 minutes with simple hand tools.

once that's done, see what the car does, then go from there.
 

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jdk529 said:
My 2000 maxima begain running rough and I was getting a rotten egg smell at times, the service engine light was on, so I brought it to my service station, when he put his computer on it he said it looked like a bad cylinder coil,so he changed it and the car runs good except for when I start it when it's cold. The engine will not idle until it gets warm. When I start it, it's ok for about 30 seconds then the rpm's just drop down and it stalls. Today is 5 days since he changed the coil and now my wife tells me the engine light came back on today. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks
I don't know much about your ignition coils, since my car only has one, but the rotten egg smell is usually a sign that the catalytic converter isn't working. If it was plugged, then it would certainly make your car run rough. If replacing the remainder of the coils doesn't help, check the cat out.
 

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jdk529 said:
My 2000 maxima begain running rough and I was getting a rotten egg smell at times, the service engine light was on, so I brought it to my service station, when he put his computer on it he said it looked like a bad cylinder coil,so he changed it and the car runs good except for when I start it when it's cold. The engine will not idle until it gets warm. When I start it, it's ok for about 30 seconds then the rpm's just drop down and it stalls. Today is 5 days since he changed the coil and now my wife tells me the engine light came back on today. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks
assuming code was P1320 Primary Ignition Signal
Any misfire codes such as P0300-P0306 ??

Also check your harness ground especially the two ground by oil cap where the harness makes a bend, I had a car in the shop for a few days where we replaced coils, ECM with almost no change in conditions when the harness was shook, we saw readings flucuate from ECM to coils.
We were about to do the EGI harness when we found a POOR GROUND by the oil cap when some sloppy shop did an oil change and oil was caked around the grounds, and it was loosened.

good luck.
 

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I agree with Kindfiend on the fact that the smell you are describing often points you towards a catalytic converter.
 

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Rough Idle 2000 Maxima

I have the same rough idle problem, car wants to stall when cold and sometimes it will ping under load. Recently the check engine light came on and the dealer noted code P0420. They wanted to replace the front Cat Converter and an O2 sensor. I did not have a sulphur smell and the car passed emission tests in PA. Two years ago they replaced all six coils, but I understand they frequently go bad, as does the Knock sensor. I have 82,000 miles on the car and I would appreciate any info or help any one can provide.

Best Regards, Moose
 

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same problem

jdk529 said:
My 2000 maxima begain running rough and I was getting a rotten egg smell at times, the service engine light was on, so I brought it to my service station, when he put his computer on it he said it looked like a bad cylinder coil,so he changed it and the car runs good except for when I start it when it's cold. The engine will not idle until it gets warm. When I start it, it's ok for about 30 seconds then the rpm's just drop down and it stalls. Today is 5 days since he changed the coil and now my wife tells me the engine light came back on today. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks
My car has the same issue... I have only had it a few months and have poured nearly a thousand bucks into various problems already.
Even after letting my car warm up and giving it gas to keep it running, if it is very cold outside, it will stall on me in the middle of an intersection if it doesnt get enough gas. Somebody please help me out! It does have 107,000 miles.
 

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Maxima cold start issue

Well, after having done a computer relearn for my idling level, which was unsuccessful, this time, the Nissan dealer wants to replace my gasket intake manifold. They believe there may be a small hole in the rubber seal, allowing air to seep in, leading to the car stalling. When the car warms up, it does not stall because the seal expands, sealing the hole, and preventing air from coming in. The cost is between $800-900 dollars.
I hope this time it fixes the problem!
I will keep you posted though.
 

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This is my first post on this Forum as the 2000 Maxima SE (automatic) is my wife's car and it is just now in the maintenance zone. My personal car is a 296,300 mile, 1991 Taurus SHO (MTX) that I maintain personally, almost as a hobby. I am sdpatt on the SHO Forum and one of the long running technical contributors (post count over 8,000 - most in the engine and driveline section). I have even written procedures covering the valve gap adjustment and clutch replacement on that car. I have performed the valve gapping and timing belt changes dozens of times on my car and the SHOs of others.

The Maxima was serviced under warranty at 30,000 miles for the MIL and P1320 code condition. The stealership replaced all six coils under the Technical Service Bulletin on the "less than adequately designed" coils.

Well, 20,000 miles later and out of warranty, the MIL/P1320 condition has returned. Of course it was on the night before my wife and two young daughters were to travel 350 miles to visit my wife's grandmother. Taking the car back to the dealership that serviced it the last time, the service manager admitted that the coils replaced on the car back in Nov 2003 were not of the upgraded design and would need to be replaced again to resolve the issue. He was kind enough to say that it was easy enough for me to do myself and save some money. I agreed.

Searching for information on this issue, I came across an on-line petition to get Nissan to wake up and smell the misfires (of which our car has yet to exhibit - the MIL lights only during engine starts and stays lit while driving). I also found a Nissan Technical Service Bulletin on the MIL/P1320 issue for earlier model year Maximas.

I have found ignition coil replacements at RockAuto.com and AutoZone. The least expensive of which were the $37.79 each Standard Motor Products rear coils and the $46.99 each Nissan front coils, both from RockAuto.com. I am reluctant, however, to install another Nissan product in this application seeing the history of their efforts. If any of this Forum's members have located a better source for these apparently commonly replaced parts, please let me know.
 

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Jerry Rome Nissan, Courtesy Nissan, or for the California-based people, Mossy Nissan Oceanside are the places to go for parts. The improved coil pack design is suitable for what you need.

Replacing intake manifold gaskets is $900? I'd look somewhere else to do the labor if you can't do it yourself... that's price gouging.
 

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Intermitent Stalling

Hello - I also have a 2000 Maxima SE w/ 90,000 miles and have experienced similar problems: stalling at idle, worse in cold weather. Car would start and warm up OK, but would stall at the coffe shop drive through or at stop lights. Problem progressively got worse. Had into Nissan dealer 3 times under ext warr and they were unable to resolve &/or duplicate problem. Finally took to a local mechanic and initially their computer scans could find nothing wrong. I do not remember the details, but as I understand he ended up cleaning the IAC and manifold, removing carbon build up. Cost was $200 for diagnosis and service and haven't had a problem in over 3 months. I will talk w/ him and post more details in the next couple of days.
 

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hawthorj said:
Hello - I also have a 2000 Maxima SE w/ 90,000 miles and have experienced similar problems: stalling at idle, worse in cold weather. Car would start and warm up OK, but would stall at the coffe shop drive through or at stop lights. Problem progressively got worse. Had into Nissan dealer 3 times under ext warr and they were unable to resolve &/or duplicate problem. Finally took to a local mechanic and initially their computer scans could find nothing wrong. I do not remember the details, but as I understand he ended up cleaning the IAC and manifold, removing carbon build up. Cost was $200 for diagnosis and service and haven't had a problem in over 3 months. I will talk w/ him and post more details in the next couple of days.
I had a lot of idle stalling problems until I noticed that the foam seal had deteriorated under the coupling, just aft of the mass air flow sensor.
I used electricians tape to seal it and it fixed the problem. I am planning to find a suitable seal to make it permanent.
Any ideas?
I think that air leaks past the mass air flow sensor confuse the computer.
 

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HEy NEED YOUR ADVICE>>>>

Matt93SE said:
did he change one, or all 6 coils?

they're very common to go out on these cars- annoying as hell, and nissan has issued a TSB (tech service bulletin) on this issue and they have upgraded the replacement coils so they shouldn't do this again.

the coils are about $60 each and there's one on each cylinder- you'll need 6 obviously.
if he only replaced one, go ahead and do the other 5- you can do it in 20 minutes with simple hand tools.

once that's done, see what the car does, then go from there.

Hey whats up? Lately ive been having this problem with my ignition coils. the code p1320 came out and i was told that nissan replaces it for $850 and i dont have that type of money. and u said that they cost 60 each is there anywhere else i can get good ignition coils for a cheaper price??
 

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pathfound1 said:
Hey whats up? Lately ive been having this problem with my ignition coils. the code p1320 came out and i was told that nissan replaces it for $850 and i dont have that type of money. and u said that they cost 60 each is there anywhere else i can get good ignition coils for a cheaper price??
$850 is way too much. The parts alone cost $360 and anyone who can use a wrench can replace them so they cannot justify $390 in labor. I would say go to another dealership or take a half hour to do it yourself. I don't know about finding them for cheaper though, you'll have to search around. Good luck!
 

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ic..

Kindfiend said:
$850 is way too much. The parts alone cost $360 and anyone who can use a wrench can replace them so they cannot justify $390 in labor. I would say go to another dealership or take a half hour to do it yourself. I don't know about finding them for cheaper though, you'll have to search around. Good luck!
yea nissan is ripping people off right now and theres also a tsb bulletin on it sayin that the current ignition coils are INDEED DEFECTIVE but yet they will NOT do a recall on it. if anyone else is having this problem there is a petition on this matter sign it please..make them recall this part that they SAY IS DEFECTIVE.
http://www.petitiononline.com/NIS_IGN/petition.html
 

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Morning Sickness

I own a 96 Maxima and have not had many problems at all. But recently it has had a rough start whenever i start it cold. Then for the first 4-5 minutes driving the idle will be real low and and possibly stall. It has once or twice now, but usually catches itself. Otherwise i keep the RPMs up til it is fine again. It will run fine the rest of the time. I have not taken it in yet for the fear that it is a problem i can fix myself instead of being charged for labor. Any advice as to what it could be?
 

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2001 Maxima Stalls

Hello Everyone! This is my first post and I am a new member as of about five minutes ago. I am glad I found this forum! It is a relief to know I am not the only one having a similar trouble with my Maxima.

The car ran great until I had the dealership change the spark plugs when the car reached 100K miles. I have been having problems ever since. The car stalls when I am idling at traffic lights. The RPMs just drops really low then dies. The car will start up immediately, but I need to revive the engine to get the gas flowing. It is as if there is no fuel.

I took it back to the dealership and was told I needed to replace the electronic module at a cost of about $700. I told them to forget it. This did not make any sense to me. The car ran great until the spark plugs were changed.

I took the car to another garage and was told the engine is running lean. The mechanic replaced the air filter and cleaned the fuel injectors. This slowed the frequency of stalling, but it still stales on occasion.

I am not a mechanic, but would greatly appreciate any help I can get to resolve this issue. Thanks in advance.
 

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I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima and it runs and drives great except for in the morning. The car has one code and it is the p0430, catalyst efficiency bank 2. In the morning the idle is really high and it runs good, but when you put it in drive it will die out sometimes, but it will start right back up. Also, until it warms up it has a wierd sound coming from somewhere on the right side or underneath the car, it sounds like a faint rattiling sound, almost like a bad cat or something??? Also, it just sounds real dry and it sounds like a pulley is grinding at times. These could be numerous problems or just one, but when it warms up it runs really good and it is really quiet and smooth. ALSO, when sitting at a light with it idling even when it is warm, there is like a bubbley sound coming from the right side of the car and you can here it inside, but you can not here it when you get it out, and if ou mce the wheel around it will stop. When you get out of the car you can kind of here it on the right side but you can feel it in the body, it is like puttering, but if you push down on the fender or anything on that side of the car for that matter it stops. Suspension seems fine. Now that was just the engine, when I make a slow sharp turn when pulling out somewhere it sometimes makes a really loud clunk sound once and thats it. It sounds like a piece of metal breaking loose. This car is spooky, please help!!!!!
 

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The car stalls when I am idling at traffic lights
Clean the idle air control motor, the throttle body, and check vacuum hoses for leaks and replace any leaking/cracked hoses.

Have you measured the MAF and TPS voltage to ensure those are within spec?
Also, it just sounds real dry and it sounds like a pulley is grinding at times.
You sure the idle pulley for your accessory belt isn't going bad?

As we said in your thread, a failing pre-cat or a bad rear bank o2 sensor could explain your code.
 
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