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Discussion Starter #1
99 Sentra GXE no spark?!?!

My girlfriends 1999 Nissan Sentra GXE lost ignition while she was driving. I had the car towed from the interstate, because I could not work on it there. OK, after 3 days of checking the forums, and replacing parts, I am stuck.

Here is the problem as I see it. The car has NO spark. It has fuel. It turns over fine. I have verified both. The distributor just wont fire. It is brand new. I looked over the FSM, and was wondering if the Crank Trigger could be the culprit. Its the only thing I havent replaced that works with ignition.

Here is what I have done so far:
Replaced distributor, and cap.
New plugs, gapped at .044, and new wires.
Set engine to TDC, and set distributor to #1 cylinder terminal.
Cleaned IACV.
Charged battery.
Changed starter one year ago.

If anyone could help me out with my idea about the crank trigger, like if that directly affects the coil producing spark. Any ideas would be appreciated.
 

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I have a 1999 Nissane Sentra GXE. I was driving down the interstate when suddenly the engine died. So I pulled over and attempted to restart it. The motor would crank over, but not actually fire. Eventually I had it towed home. I checked the distributor first. It was not firing. So I replaced the cap, plugs, and wires. Checked it again and still no spark. So I replaced the distributor itself. I put the motor at TDC, aligned the rotor to the the #1 plug post, and tried again. The new distributor did not spark either. I searched the forum and tried a couple other things too. Cleaned the IACV. Checked the MAF with a known working one. Checked the FPR. Fuel is not a problem at all. The plugs become very wet while attempting to start. I then looked at the FSM for ideas. It looked like the crank magnetic trigger is directly related the cam angle sensor in the distributor. Could it be possible the the crank trigger is the cause of my spark problems? Any and all ideas on this problem would be appreciated.
 

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Post a diagram for the distributor and I can walk you through on how to test it with a voltmeter. Or I can get a diagram while I'm at school and I'll tell you how to test.
 

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GA16DE200sx said:
Post a diagram for the distributor and I can walk you through on how to test it with a voltmeter. Or I can get a diagram while I'm at school and I'll tell you how to test.

The question I'm really trying to answer if you know, is what causes a distributor to not produce spark on the GA16DE. Obviously, a faulty distributor would be a likely answer. Thats been replaced. Also the cam angle sensor could be bad. But thats inside the distributor, so therefore that is new as well. What I'm starting to think was that the distributor was not bad to begin with. So what else that has only to do with firing the coil could be the problem.


I was wondering if someone could try something for me. If you could unplug the crank angle sensor on the transaxle, and try to start the car. See if the car starts or not, or if it does, if it throws a CEL.
 

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The question I'm really trying to answer if you know, is what causes a distributor to not produce spark on the GA16DE. Obviously, a faulty distributor would be a likely answer. Thats been replaced. Also the cam angle sensor could be bad. But thats inside the distributor, so therefore that is new as well. What I'm starting to think was that the distributor was not bad to begin with. So what else that has only to do with firing the coil could be the problem.
Just because your replaced it doesn't mean that the circuit going to and from it is good.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
GA16DE200sx said:
Just because your replaced it doesn't mean that the circuit going to and from it is good.
Well in the FSM, it looks like the crank angle sensor, and cam angle sensor work in conjunction to produce a signal to send to the coil to emit a spark. That is why I'm guessing its the crank angle sensor. Thats why I was hoping someone could just unplug theirs and check to see if it stopped the distributor from emitting spark. The reason why I replaced the distributor before checking anything else is because this just happened 20,000 miles ago, and that was the faulty part. The engine had the same symptoms of just softly turning over, spraying fuel into the cylinders, but no spark at all.
 

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GA16DE200sx said:
Then why don't you want to learn how to test it instead of guessing? :confused:
Why dont you stop posting on this thread if you cant be helpful or constructive. It is a waste of my time to read your replies because they are not benefitting anyone.
 

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It's the first time I've ever heard anybody have a problem with the crank angle sensor, so I wouldn't know. How's the ECU? Also, I'm not sure if this would work, but you should be able to pull codes from the computer to exactly determine what the problem is.
 

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knifeparty118 said:
Why dont you stop posting on this thread if you cant be helpful or constructive. It is a waste of my time to read your replies because they are not benefitting anyone.
Why don't you take a minte and read the posts in the thread. I have PERSONALLY started my car with the CAS unplugged.
 

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knifeparty118 said:
Why dont you stop posting on this thread if you cant be helpful or constructive. It is a waste of my time to read your replies because they are not benefitting anyone.
Thats fine. You can keep wasting your time by guessing and throwing your money away by throwing parts at it.
 

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For knifeparty118. Did you get a solution for this thread? I´m having the same problem from 3 months ago and I´m desperated. Thanks in advance from Mexico City.
 

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Replaced motor after mine blew a rod bearing and locked the engine up. New salvage motor out of running vehicle has 114k on it. Old motor 200k on it with good distributor, moved to new salvage motor.

Salvage motor in vehicle cranks easily, but no spark at distributor. Have solid ground at coil harness but no power on adjacent pin, and PLENTY of fuel getting to the engine. When voltage pin is back probed and jumpered to battery, nothing, pull probe from battery and distributor sparks. WTF?
 

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Swap out the crank sensor, since you've got 2 practically identical motors there, should be a piece of cake.
As far as why the distributor sparks when you pull the power wire out, that's the way they work. A complete circuit thru the coil "charges" the coil, builds up the magnetic field. Cut power (either by interrupting the ground or removing power), the magnetic field around the coil collapses and induces a crapload of voltage for the spark. Normal ops...
 

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Did you try the good distributer from your old motor?

Crank position sensor is only used to detect miss-fire. They don't play any roll for ignition. Camshaft position sensor does but it's in the distributer.
 
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