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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed a piece of the fuel line after the fuel filter rubber connection is leaking. As well as the coating of that metal line peeled back. Can that section be replaced? As in cut out the leaking piece and maybe flare to put a longer rubber piece?




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Looks like the line rusted because of the peeled plastic and not the other way around, so I'd say you're probably safe to cut out a section and repair it with flares or ferrules.
 

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Yes you can cut the end of the metal fuel line and put a very small flare on the end of it. Now replace the fuel hose with a longer one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So I did it yesterday evening as I couldn’t drive the vehicle like that, it was a constant drip when engine on. And yes it was only that small section bad as the covering peeled back and exposed the line causing corrosion. I cut back the covering a bit further to check and it looks brand new the rest of the way.

I cut out the bad piece, about 4 inches, and put a longer fuel hose on. Absolutely no leaking at all, but now when the vehicle sits for a long time like overnight to this morning or several hours, it hard starts. Like cranks a lot before actually starting. As if fuel pressure is low.

Could it be air in the lines from having the system open for a while? I cut of the bad piece and removed that small hose from the fuel filter and brought it to auto parts store with me.

It’s definitely something to do with that because it didn’t happen until after fixing the leak. But with the new hose and fuel clamps on there is no leaking.
 

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Absolutely no leaking at all, but now when the vehicle sits for a long time like overnight to this morning or several hours, it hard starts. Like cranks a lot before actually starting. As if fuel pressure is low.

Could it be air in the lines from having the system open for a while? I cut of the bad piece and removed that small hose from the fuel filter and brought it to auto parts store with me.

It’s definitely something to do with that because it didn’t happen until after fixing the leak. But with the new hose and fuel clamps on there is no leaking.
What could have happened is when you replaced everything, some debris got into the fuel filter and plugged it up causing the problem. Replace the filter.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What could have happened is when you replaced everything, some debris got into the fuel filter and plugged it up causing the problem. Replace the filter.
Even though the repair was after the filter? That area was replaced.



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My bad. Looking at the picture, it appeared that the metal pipe came from the fuel pump. Well in any case debris could have gotten to the fuel injectors. If that's the case, the injectors may have to get flushed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My bad. Looking at the picture, it appeared that the metal pipe came from the fuel pump. Well in any case debris could have gotten to the fuel injectors. If that's the case, the injectors may have to get flushed.
My luck, I replaced the injectors two months ago. Would it be a safe bet to try a bottle of Techron?

I cut off from a clean section using those line cutters where you spin and keep tightening. There was no corrosion on that spot.


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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Could it also be that I used a 1/4 sized fuel hose? That’s what fitted the old piece of metal fuel line that I brought with me to store.

But the hole of the new hose did look slightly smaller.


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Could it also be that I used a 1/4 sized fuel hose? That’s what fitted the old piece of metal fuel line that I brought with me to store. But the hole of the new hose did look slightly smaller.
I doubt it, the end of the old hose would naturally be expanded slightly from years on the larger steel line. Even if the hose is undersized, the difference in flow will make minimal difference to the engine except when it's gulping fuel at WOT. I'm with Rogo, I think you may have got some debris into the injectors. You may need to remove and back-flush them, the problem with rust is that nothing except acid really dissolves it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I doubt it, the end of the old hose would naturally be expanded slightly from years on the larger steel line. Even if the hose is undersized, the difference in flow will make minimal difference to the engine except when it's gulping fuel at WOT. I'm with Rogo, I think you may have got some debris into the injectors. You may need to remove and back-flush them, the problem with rust is that nothing except acid really dissolves it.
Damn.

I didn’t flare the end of the line last night when I did it. Just put the new hose and two clamps on the end.

Some debris in the injector would only cause the problem on the start up? It’s as if someone removed the fuel pump fuse and you try to start it. Crank, crank, crank, no startup. Release the key and try back and it starts fine. And that’s when left for a while like couple hours or overnight.

No rough idle, no WOT problems.

And also I cut the line first and gas squirted backwards through the line from the engine side. So wouldn’t that have flushed anything that got in out?


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And also I cut the line first and gas squirted backwards through the line from the engine side. So wouldn’t that have flushed anything that got in out?
Yes, that would have flushed it. That changes things. I wonder if you don't have a weak pump that was spinning up easily with the leak de-pressurizing the line, but now has trouble getting started with the line full of fuel. I'd try to get it to misbehave with a fuel pressure gauge in place. If it comes up low or zero then the pump is probably stalling or stumbling when it tries to spin up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Yes, that would have flushed it. That changes things. I wonder if you don't have a weak pump that was spinning up easily with the leak de-pressurizing the line, but now has trouble getting started with the line full of fuel. I'd try to get it to misbehave with a fuel pressure gauge in place. If it comes up low or zero then the pump is probably stalling or stumbling when it tries to spin up.
I will check it out with a fuel pressure gauge.

The no flare shouldn’t have caused this?


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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I'll get a fuel gauge on it tomorrow. It definitely feels like a lack of fuel scenario. Especially because of the amount of cranks before it gets running or failing to start after cranking and then when I release the key and retry again it starts.

I do hear the pump priming when the ignition comes on, but could be weak as you said. And after the hard starting and it gets running, I can shut it off and restart immediately with no problems. Until left several hours again or overnight.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I was checking it out and when I turn the key to the ignition position several times, sometimes you would hear the pump prime and sometimes it does not come on.

Is is supposed to come on every single time you turn to ignition position? Or does it not come on every time if you keep turning ignition on and off so many times in a row.

When I do this though the vehicle fires right up. No extended cranking or struggle to start.

Could it also be that the piece of fuel line that was cut out was the 45 degree bend?


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To my knowledge, the pump should prime every time the key is cycled. The only exception might be if you cycle it in less than 2~3 seconds so the ECM hasn't shut itself down, then it may depend on the particular ECM firmware. Sounds like your pump is weak and is no-starting intermittently.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I think it had to do with the fuel hose I replaced with after cutting out the bad piece.

So I took back off the longer replacement hose and installed a piece of metal line, making the factory bend back and a flare at the end. And put back the original Nissan rubber gas hose going to that line from the fuel filter. No leaks at connections.

The aftermarket fuel line I had put on was very soft too. It was fuel rated and to pressure specs but something felt weird about it.

But it has been starting fine since. Haven’t had any “crank no start” problems as yet.




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