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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I'm the Proud Owner of a 1997 Nissan XE(D21) 4x4. I'm living near Fort Bragg and Love to take it off road. I've been having some problem though. 147,000 miles!:)

During accelorating It's been jerking a little between gears 3, 4, 5 after the Truck warms up. Does not do it cold. I've replace(gas filter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap). There is no Check Engine Lights on. I've read the Haynes manual 2 times now and almost every post you guys have put on the forum.(Good Job:cheers: ) some of you have got :balls:

Problem #2 I've notice I'm not the only one with the Timing belt making the tick, tick, tick noise :eek: . I'm going to try a few changes to my normal oil changes to see if I can lessen it. Eventually(maybe seen) I've going to lay that Timing Chain to rest and install a new one.

Problem #3 A mechanic told me that the Hesitation mybe do to a faulty Ignition coil. After Reading Haynes I've come to the conclusion-----
MY TRUCK LOOKS VERY LITTLE LIKE THE MANUAL..:mad:
Who the flip wrote the book! Could they have added a few more year to the book I mean come on 1980 thru 1997(That's 17 years of changes) I feel like I've been :banhump: !

Does anyone Know what the Original Ignition Coil Looks Like in 1997 Nissan?
I have no wires that lead to the Distributor Directly. Ahhh.
Here is a link to what my Truck Looks like almost Exactly---

eBay Motors: Nissan : Frontier (item 190237210941 end time Jul-22-08 09:19:00 PDT)


SOBS
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Possible Shop Manual Praying it Works !

Thanks!!!!!! dvdswanson---Looks like my truck in your Avitar.
PhatG20 - Nissan
If it works(Praying it does) I might be in Business for all the Info I need. Still searching for the Ignition Coil. I'm guessing it looks nothing like what's in the Haynes.:lame:

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update

1997 Nissan 4x4 - Update(23 July 08)
Have changed coolant, PCV valve, Oil, Distributor Cap and Rotor, Spark Plug Wires, Spark Plugs, Air Filter.

I've used some gas additives to clean the fuel lines and injectors. Tried Sea Foam(not impressed, made a nice cloud of smoke though).

I added some Oil Honey(Thickener) and it did quiet my Timing Chain a little.
I'll attack the Timing Belt sometime in Aug. When I can get a couple days off.
The engine is running a little ruff....maybe due to Timing Chains slack. I pray that Changing the Timing Chain solves the Problem.:crazy:

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buy a nissan oil filter it will help eliminate the start up tick, if its your lifters, if its the timing chain guide it will have to be replaced when you are totally fed up with it. check your TPS, MAF, and IAC for your troubles. TPS and MAF will cause problems without setting any codes. my avatar is my truck

 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Nice

I found 1/2 the problem. I took it to a mechanic about 4 months ago and after he finished some work on the distibutor it was running great for about a week. Then started doing it again.
:banana::cheers: I looked over the distibutor last night again and found the rear bolt a little loose. So I loosed up the front bold to adjust the timing to detard it some and sure enough MY TRUCK IS RUNNING 60% better!!!!:fluffy:

Thanks for all your guys help. I'm still looking to change the Timing belt when I get the time and cash. Guess it pays to check out the work you pay for.

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well the seafoam did work if it left a nice cloud of white smoke the white smoke was the carbon buildup on ur valves and heads so now that it is clean ull get better fuel millage and when the truck runs properly more power hahahaha power good
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
SeaFoam

Can't Rely say I was impressed with seafoam. I'm going to try it on a rifle bolts to see how well it removes carbon. What got my attention was dvdswansons link (TY :cheers: ) and post a read about how the sound my car was making and reacting was a result of the ignition(probably timing) not the fuel system. I'm still looking into the fuel system(bad gas is easy to find now a days.)

Hopefully when I get the time and cash I'll tackle the Timing Belt.

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I assume your truck has the KA24DE DOHC motor. If so, the ticking may be a combination of excessive valve lifter clearance and the normal fuel injector clicking. The motor uses a timing chain instead of a timing belt.

The motor uses solid valve lifters rather then hydraulic lifters. You need to manually check the lifter clearances; if clearances are excessive, they can be corrected with replaceable shims.

As far as the stumbling during operation, the following could be at fault:
- Dirty or leaking fuel injectors.
- Bad fuel pressure regulator.
- Vacuum leak in the intake system.
- Bad O2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Timing Belt Replacement

Replaced Timing Chain(correctly)

Problem now is engine will not start.
:fluffy: Does the Distributor fire on exhaust stroke?(1997)

I'm following the right up (link below) and decided to attack the timing chain. I've been working on it for 4 days now and have some wonderful pics I'll post later. After getting everything apart I looked over the timing chain and it looked great. The only thing wrong was the guild was missing the plastic cover- ( made of plastic:lame::mad: ) what Idiot came up with that idea. Luckily the tensioner (plastic covered was eaten into) and guild (plastic cover was missing) but still working ok. Looking back on it I wish I would have just lived with the noise LOL. The worst part (4x4) is the oil pan. You have to disassemble the front differential to get to it. I tried to just drop it add RTV and put it back. It leaked!:balls: If you got the (4x4) your going to have to dissassemble the front differential. No way around it.

Promble now is engine will not start.

:fluffy: Does the Distributor fire on exhaust stroke?(1997)

Oh and don't remove the water pump (you don't have too).

Also just disconnect hoses where you have too. Save you the trouble of leaking seals.

2nd worst part - Oil Pump alignment with Distributor without messing up the seal. Key - Put distributor in. Put gears that go into oil pump into distributor. Put oil in oil pump. Place RTV on Oil pump then align the bottom of the gear.

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
GOT IT

After Praying about it God sent me the answer ( I ran out of cuss words a long time ago ) I hooked the sparkplug wires up in reverse order and It Stared! #4 on # 1 plug. # 3 wire #2 plug. Ect.....

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Oil Pan Removal 4x4

Next Problem-:confused:

In order to remove the oil pan the books is telling me to remove the Front differentail Extension Tube Assembly.

:waving:Can I Just remove the 4 bolds on the Front Differential Extension Tube Assembly and lower it to get to the oil pan?

The books is telling me about Removing the whole Front Differential and that I need to "Disconnect the Front Driveshaft" but in order to do this I must "Remove the Transfer Case" and Dissconnect the Rear DriveShaft.:confused: This seems like a lot to get to the oil pan.

If I do Just have to remove the 4 bolts on the Extension - Is it full of Oil?

SOBS
Oh here are some pics of the Timing Chain Job ( Truck Porn )-


 
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