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Discussion Starter #1
So month or so ago I purchased a throttle body from ebay, installed, then got a insturment cluster on ebay. The truck had a high idle when I first installed the throttle body after some adjustments tach was showing 750rpm. I installed the cluster I got from ebay. I put it all back together cause I was like, hey what could go wrong doing this, Right? Lol 馃槅

Well the tach was showing idle at 1200-1500. I thought maybe it was because I didnt pull the needle and reinsert with power. So I took it back apart to see if it correct the problem. It didnt. I bought a photo tach rpm meter, to make sure the cluster was good. Photometer shows the same high rpm.

So after trying to get the idle down I have had no luck at all.
TB is clean.
Idle screw is only opened 1/2 a turn from being closed off.
Have a
New iacv,
New ac cutoff thing under iacv
New throttle cable, adjusted
. swapped out mass airflow from old TB
Adjusted Fic
Timing is right on the money 10
Tps adjustment
Vacuum gauge (habor freight) showing 60 in the green for normal engine.

Has the base set Idle screw been messed with?
 

Software Developer
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My guess would be a vacuum leak when you installed the throttle body. A lot of people use smoke machines to find vacuum leaks. Those are easy to find with it being Halloween season. You can also find leaks by making small squirts around suspected areas with Starter Fluid*. I would say to focus on all areas that you just worked on first. Most of your vacuum hoses are old, so you could have moved a hose that has dry-rot and caused a crack.

*Be careful if you use Starter Fluid. It is more volatile than gasoline, so use short bursts and let it dry completely before testing another area.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I bought new gaskets. I only used one for the Throttle body but realized I didn't get one for the space.

So I bought both, Gaskets and reinstalled.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I am sorry. Vacuum is 20 to 21hg
Yes I still have problem of high idle after changing both gaskets.
 

Software Developer
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Try the Starter Fluid trick.

Make short burst squirts around the parts you replaced, letting the liquid evaporate between squirts.

It is very flammable, and it evaporates quickly. Don't squirt a lot at one time.
 

Sup Mod keeping the peace
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I am sorry. Vacuum is 20 to 21hg
Yes I still have problem of high idle after changing both gaskets.
A high idle speed after the engine is fully warmed up, many times is caused by a bad FIC. If you purchased a used throttle body, then there's a good chance the FIC is the problem; it's worth putting a new FIC in.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I notice when I twist fic screw down the screw is kicking outward. I sprayed wd 40 on fic. Helped a little, but fic screw still gets tilted.
 

Sup Mod keeping the peace
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The FIC should never be adjusted. It's normally preset in the factory. Your best bet is to buy a new one and be done with it.
 

NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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You may have a bad wax element in the throttle body or insufficient coolant flow around the hot wax element in the throttle body. As the coolant heats up the wax, it causes the plunger to retract inside of it, which lowers the fast idle.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
OK so I have now replaced the FIC element , temp sensor/sender units. And all the vacuum hose. Still high Idle.

Now the temp Guage is staying at 1/4 mark on cold side even after driving.

Should I feel suction off any vacuum hose I pull loose? Because I dont.
As of now I only have vacuum on these lines in red(didn't finish all the color but suction flows through those lines and vacuum tank.) Pics of my hoses are here.
Hardbody Vacuum






6890


My vacuum gallery looks like this image here but still different.
6891
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
Joined
7,224 Posts
OK so I have now replaced the FIC element , temp sensor/sender units. And all the vacuum hose. Still high Idle.

Now the temp Guage is staying at 1/4 mark on cold side even after driving.

Should I feel suction off any vacuum hose I pull loose? Because I dont.
As of now I only have vacuum on these lines in red(didn't finish all the color but suction flows through those lines and vacuum tank.) Pics of my hoses are here.
Hardbody Vacuum






View attachment 6890

My vacuum gallery looks like this image here but still different.
View attachment 6891
You're vacuum gallery as shown in the lower picture should have full vacuum; one of those hoses should have a connection to the intake manifold to get a full vacuum.

If the temp gauge is not showing proper temperature, the thermostat may be bad.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Do you know which hose I have wrong? I have tried connecting these hoses by 3 different diagram. I colored all the vac lines in these diagrams to try to make it easier to follow but I am only getting flow in the lines I pictured with red in first diagram.
 

Sup Mod keeping the peace
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Do you know which hose I have wrong? I have tried connecting these hoses by 3 different diagram. I colored all the vac lines in these diagrams to try to make it easier to follow but I am only getting flow in the lines I pictured with red in first diagram.
I'm sitting in front of a PC monitor, not standing in front of your vehicle which makes it almost impossible to say which hose is right or wrong. You have 3 different diagrams all showing different aspects of the vacuum system; one diagram shows only part numbers. It seems the best place to start is the vacuum tank which should have a direct connection to the intake manifold; if you measure the vacuum here, it should be full vacuum. Then go from there following the hoses. Use a vacuum gauge for measuring.
 
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