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Discussion Starter #1
My truck currently has a 94 throttle body on it. Don’t know if it was A/T or M/T. But the base idle screw was messed with. I tuned everything the best I could, perfect idle timing right on the money. But my truck has lack of power and horrible gas mileage (10-12mpg). So I bought a used throttle body from eBay for a 1995 Hardbody M/T.
My question is when I replace this what steps do I do first to make sure I tune it in correctly? (Also got new throttle cable)


Would this be correct?
Once I mount it, set throttle cable adjustment, leave the tps off and adjust idle air till I have 700rpm then connect tps and adjust it to proper voltage, then set the timing?
 

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NF Mod/Nissan Master Tech
2006 Pathfinder LE, 2003 Frontier SVE
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NICO Club's website has free, online Nissan service manuals.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I put the throttle body on I got from eBay. Started up, rpm ran 2k! Unplugged TPS rpm dropped back to 750. Timing at 10ish to 12.
Plug TPS in rpm hit 2k and timing is off the marks. Unplug 750, timing good.
TPS 4.5

Bad TPS?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I adjusted the tps, at 5 now. The left screw is at the bottom of the slot. Which is odd cause always been more toward the top left of slot. Idle is good but then I notice my exhaust manifold and o2 sensor glowing cherry red. If I open idle screw up just little idle is 1 k

straight pipe
 

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That could be caused by differences in sensor sensitivity. Just my best guess.

Cherry red O2 sensor and exhaust manifold. Huh. That doesn't sound ideal. lol I think too hot indicates a lean fuel condition. The air/fuel ratio settings should be in Mode 4 of the ECU, but I've never messed with those.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Exhaust manifold has a slight red glow and around the o2 is glowing red. When I tap gas pedal rpm raise up and lingers then drops. Rev engine up repeatedly it starts to stumble or bubble up with rpm lingering on higher end before drop back down.
Could the FIC need adjusted?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I believe I got it straight now. But I had to adjust the distributor with tps plugged in?

Yesterday any time I moved the tps to adjust it from that lower left end of screw, the timing would advance way pass 20, my idle even though it says it’s at 750 it sounded high pitch. After I gave up last night I was on about 15 timing mark.

This morning I decided to move the timing back to 10ish with tps connected. Low and behold the high pitch went way down then started to miss, sputter. Unplugged tps timing still at 10, adjust idle to 750, plugged tps back up, had the surge effect, adjusted tps, left screw on tps is now slightly just below the top of left slot, Timing still at 10. Only had time to drive around block and back but it felt right!

No cel on, Rev tapping gas pedal idle stays in rhythm.
 

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Hey guys hate to piggy back your thread but was hoping i could catch some recent posts similar to my situation and get a little advice and possibly be pointed in the way of a good vacuum diagram. I have a 94 ka24e that i just did timing, headgasket, fuelpump on. Starts then dies in about 3 seconds and check engine light is on. Plan on reading codes tomorrow. Dont have my timing light either. Vac diagrams?
 

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Hey guys hate to piggy back your thread but was hoping i could catch some recent posts similar to my situation and get a little advice and possibly be pointed in the way of a good vacuum diagram. I have a 94 ka24e that i just did timing, headgasket, fuelpump on. Starts then dies in about 3 seconds and check engine light is on. Plan on reading codes tomorrow. Dont have my timing light either. Vac diagrams?
If possible, you should set the ignition timing before pulling the codes. Your truck requires a timing light, so if you don't have one... either go get one or you shouldn't be doing your own work. They are cheap enough on Amazon.

Pulling the codes is essential, also. The ECU creates conditions whenever it detects errors.

6707
 
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