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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
My 94 Sentra has always run fabulously. Yesterday it ran fine, came home turned it off. This morning I went out to start it, it cranked over but never started. There is good spark, fuel on the plugs after cranking a bit, compression, but no start. I pulled the valve cover, lined up the crank, the exhaust and intake cams are both one tooth off. I assume that the chain slipped when I cranked it over this morning. Would this cause any valve damage? Turning it over by hand I don't hear any unusual noises. How difficult is the chain swap? I've done two timing belts on a 200sx but never on the Sentra. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Jim
 

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Mofo
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Its more than likely going to be the tensenior, but while your in there might as well replace the chain too. If you have changed the chains on a 200, you shouldn't have any problem with doing it on a sentra. What year of 200 have you done them on?
If you need some basic hot to's, just use the search button at the top of the page and it will provide you with answers to most of your installation questions.
 

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vespa said:
Hi,
My 94 Sentra has always run fabulously. Yesterday it ran fine, came home turned it off. This morning I went out to start it, it cranked over but never started. There is good spark, fuel on the plugs after cranking a bit, compression, but no start. I pulled the valve cover, lined up the crank, the exhaust and intake cams are both one tooth off. I assume that the chain slipped when I cranked it over this morning. Would this cause any valve damage? Turning it over by hand I don't hear any unusual noises. How difficult is the chain swap? I've done two timing belts on a 200sx but never on the Sentra. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you, Jim
wait wait wait befor you draw conclusions the motor has to spin over many many times befor the timming marks will ever go back to normal markins i spun my motor over 4 times with the cover off and everything while rebuilding it to make sure it would turn over and the marks wont go back to normal for some time. so you cant say its the chain quite yet
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks guys,

I took the front cover off to find that the chain has stretched alot. The tensioner was all the way out and the chain was flapping around. The bottom chain appears to be tight but its hard to tell for sure. Is there a easy way to check the bottom chain without pulling the engine, bottom timing cover, etc? I realize that it doesnt get the stress that the top chain does so it might be ok. Thanks, Jim
 

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Now w/20% More Magic
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Theres no easy way of checking the bottom chain and the bottom gets just as much stress as the top its the bottom that spins the top chain via the idler pulley

200sx and sentra chain is all the same granted its a b13-b14 200sx

and though I cant be for sure I have a feeling you chain didnt jump one sprocket as sometime the marks get very close to align put still need several more spins to get it right theres a possible that you moved your chain out of alignment but it being just one sprocket there would be no ill effect

I replace the chain and tensioner on my 200sx, another I bought and a friends 200 two of them with badly worn tensioners I didnt see away for the chain to jump even it there was some slack in the chain but I guess it could happen
 

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vespa said:
Thanks guys,

I took the front cover off to find that the chain has stretched alot. The tensioner was all the way out and the chain was flapping around. The bottom chain appears to be tight but its hard to tell for sure. Is there a easy way to check the bottom chain without pulling the engine, bottom timing cover, etc? I realize that it doesnt get the stress that the top chain does so it might be ok. Thanks, Jim
well check your upper chain tensioner its probably worn down pretty bad like the one on page 2 of my cardomain. also when you turn the car off the chain tensioner loses its oil pressure and yet the chain will get loose on one side. the chain really just cant stretch at least not alot that the tensioner cant tighten it. that i kno of hte bottom chian and tensioner doesnt wear near as bad as the top does. i drove my car about 6k miles with my newest tensioner and saw some wear in it already. just take the top tesnioner out and if it has deep grooves replace it and see how that goes
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey Magicpie,
How difficult is the lower chain? Does the engine have to be pulled? On the upper chain, I've spun it 30-40 times and it always comes up with each sproket off one tooth. Seems weird but thats what I see. The chain is super loose. Another weird thing is the car ran great just before the chain jumped. The 200sx I've changed was a 1985 (2.0) which is a SOHC with belt. So this chain is new to me. Thanks everyone! Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks Skoodles,
Yep the tensioner has the grooves, but the chain is still very loose with the tensioner all the way out and pulled taught past the grooves. I think for $30 more I'll replace the chain along with the tensioner, I dont want to pull this apart again. I guess I'll leave the bottom chain alone since it seems tight. Thanks everyone. Jim
 

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vespa said:
Thanks Skoodles,
Yep the tensioner has the grooves, but the chain is still very loose with the tensioner all the way out and pulled taught past the grooves. I think for $30 more I'll replace the chain along with the tensioner, I dont want to pull this apart again. I guess I'll leave the bottom chain alone since it seems tight. Thanks everyone. Jim
yeah my chain tensioner was 50 bucks. heres what you do to find out if your car has jumped timing but i still dont think it did. turn the crank to tdc if you have to take the bolt off the crank pulley and you will see the little key. it should have up. make sure its tdc on conpression stroke. then takt the valve cover off and the intake cam on #1 cyl should face the fire wall. and the exauhst can should face the front of the car. this is not an easy job. if it was just the tensioner it would be no problem. but to get the chain off you have to take the sprockets off the cams.and im not sure with the head and all since yours is a b13 if im correct. my head i had to take the bolt out of my idler sprocket and move it up and over jsut a bit to get the chain out. also theres a sertan way the chain has to line up and wich way the cams are ligned up. i recomend you download the factor service manual theres a stick on it around here some wheres. if your internect connection isnt fast ill post the import pages you need to do your timing job. theres stuff like you have to count how many links are between the color links and if you get one side off it could ruin some valves. if you have common sense its no problem. im 16 and fully rebuilt my motor. al though due to a crack timing chain cover its not driveable. it still starts and sounds great. im ordering one from the dealership soon
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The chain may not be off but there are factory paint swatches across the chain and sprokets and they dont line up. If it didnt jump I dont really know why it wont start. I'll check the cam alignment thing you mentioned. Where can I download the manual you mentioned? I have a fast connection. I've rebuilt 25-30 engines and done several complete restorations, mostly 50s-60s Chevys, never on a DOHC Nissan before now. You might be able to find that cover in a junkyard, seems there are alot of those engines around. Thanks much
 

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vespa said:
The chain may not be off but there are factory paint swatches across the chain and sprokets and they dont line up. If it didnt jump I dont really know why it wont start. I'll check the cam alignment thing you mentioned. Where can I download the manual you mentioned? I have a fast connection. I've rebuilt 25-30 engines and done several complete restorations, mostly 50s-60s Chevys, never on a DOHC Nissan before now. You might be able to find that cover in a junkyard, seems there are alot of those engines around. Thanks much
http://www.nissanforums.com/showthread.php?t=60760 there the link to the thread that has it. chevy motors pshh are nothin compared to the crap on these cars. pluss be carfull verry easy to strip bolts. and as of the junkyard thing i got over 1k in rebuilding this motor now along iwth my first updates when i got the car anything i get for it will be brand new. everything i get is from the dealership. only cause he gives me a 20% discount for buying so mutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Hey Thanks!
Yeah I'm way too aware of stripping bolts. I've owned my 85 200sx for 20 years, but she's sorta old school compared to the Sentra. Still love the old muscle cars but not really for daily drivers. I don't blame you for the new dealer part thing, the only way to go on a fresh rebuild.
 

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vespa said:
Hey Thanks!
Yeah I'm way too aware of stripping bolts. I've owned my 85 200sx for 20 years, but she's sorta old school compared to the Sentra. Still love the old muscle cars but not really for daily drivers. I don't blame you for the new dealer part thing, the only way to go on a fresh rebuild.
wow 20 years thats older than me by 4 years lol i don think i could own a car thats older than me unles its a 70-73 mopar
 

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i saw the first picture it still could just be the fact that it takes sooo many revolutions befor its the same again. but yu can try and retime it if you can but its not for an amature. just prey the bottom chain is still timed. and timing the top is kinda hard cause you have to put one cam sprocket n and then put the chian on teh other and bolt it on. also the slack you see ontop is just cause the cam rotates a few degrees when you turn the car off cause the tensioner dont have the oil pressure to hold a valve open . wich is why its loose hope that helps some
 
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