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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys. I haven't been on here in a while, and I have a nissan hardbody, the stipped down model. The timing chain loves to rub at mid and high rpms, and at idle when cold.

I was wondering if you guys could tell me the best procedure to tackle this? I have some mechanical experience and i definately don't want to pay a mechanic 500 dollars to do the chain, plus parts.

I will have all I need: timing gears, chain, tensioner, crank seal, and the chain guides. I figured id change the waterpump while down there as well. I know i have to drop the pan and all that. I've heard some shady stories about the chilton's manual, so I was wondering if anyone could give me a better procedure? Thanks guys.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
oil pump timing. ive never even HEARD of that. I'm new to the nissan world but never have i ever heard of "oil pump timing". please enlighten me on that. how do i ensure the correct timing of all the parts?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
i can ensure tdc on number one by the timing marks and a screw driver im guessing right?
 

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Hardbody Freak
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put the engine at first position b4 u tear it down..

then remove the oil pump. you will notice it has a triangle and dot on the shaft that line up.

when you are ready to reinstall the oil pump (after t-chain has been put on and the t-cover is back on)

put the oil pump in and the remove it to see how much it has moved from its 1st position..

put it back to positon and reinstall...

do this over and over untill you can put it in w/o it coming out of time...(it being oil pump)...
 

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Hardbody Freak
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yes but look at crank pulley as well it has a dail indicater and a line on the outer lip of the pulley. or the crank key way is straight up..

also the dizzy should be at number one spark plug tower..

if you make sure that all are in there persective first positon it shoud be a breeze..

1 more thing on the t-chain guides make sure to pry them to the chain direction b4 tighten them down ..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok. thats easy enough. do i have to actually remove the oil pump? sorry, new at this. which way does the engine turn? im assuming counterclockwise, i am a gearhead but im new to this engine. i will hopefully not mess this up. so i should also definately mark where the rotor is at tdc.

thanks a lot man. just another question. how do i time the cams with the crank, just in case something gets turned even though it was already timed when i tore it down?
 

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Hardbody Freak
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the dizzy can only go in one way if you do the oil pump timing correctly.

the oil pump has to be removed..

90 percent of the guys who do this job mess up the oil pump timing proceedure.

the chain is a straight forward job..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
ok. so just line up the dot, and keep trying till they actually get together correctly? until it stops moving
 

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Hardbody Freak
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the timing gears are slightly belveled or twisted ..

as you insert the oil pump shaft the twist can make the shaft twist off of its mark.

the mark being the dot and triangle..

so put it in and take it out till you can put it in w/o moving it off its mark..
 

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Sup Mod keeping the peace
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To set the cam timing, remove all the spark plugs and manually turn the crank pulley by hand until the block timing pointer at the front pulley is pointing to the ZERO mark on the pulley. The #1 piston is now sitting at TDC. Install the cam. The keyways for the crank and cam sprockets should be at the 12 o'clock position. Now look at the lower end of the timing chain for the chain mating mark which should be at the crankshaft sprocket gear mark; 5 o'clock position. The top end of the timing chain mating (silver) mark should be at the sprocket gear mark; 3 o'clock position.

Make sure the engine is NOT TURNED from this point on until everything is reassembled.

At this point you are ready to install the oil pump and distributor. The oil pump uses a shaft to turn the distributor. Insert this shaft onto the oil pump with the punch mark on the shaft lining up with the hole on the oil pump (below gear). Install pump/shaft to block. When installed the end of the shaft will look like a "D", when looking into the distributor hole while standing at the drivers side front wheel well. Actually, it (the "D") will be more of a "11:45 o'clock" position, NOT quite "12:00"; if not, then remove, and reinstall until the above position is obtained.

Now insert the distributor into the block. Wherever the rotor is pointing, that is the #1 plug wire location. You may have to rearrange the plug wires on the distributor cap. The KA motor firing order is: 1-3-4-2. This is at the distributor cap in a counter clockwise direction. You now are timed close to correct; you should be able to start the motor.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks a lot. I'm guessing this isnt as hard as i think it is? just easy to mess up if i dont pay attention to details.

do you think it would be a good idea to start running synthetic mobile one from now on in this engine?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
so i have to remove the oil pump BEFORE i replace the chain? and what do you mean by pry the guides?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
im also guessing i should take out the radiator, im sure that would make my life a lot easier. and the grill.. i would like to just take the engine out and do it, but thats a lot more work. haha i will have a shop to work in and an engine lift but thats excessive. thats all for the de swap
 

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Hardbody Freak
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u have to remove the dizzy and oil pump b4 u remove the timing cover.
yes to removeing the rad but not the grille.

some time the crank bolt is a little tough to remove.
i use a pipe wrench cupped inside the bolt space over the pulley to stop it from turning the whole engine ..

the t-chain guides are to be pryed into the direction of the t-chain ..

this is to stop ne play or chain slop..

so once u have the t-guides in palce and the t-chain in place you pry the guide toward the chain and then tighten the guide down..

what i mean is it is not enough to just push the guide over and tighten..
 
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