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Discussion Starter #1
I recently discovered that my clutch master cylinder was going bad. I just replaced it with a perfection master cylinder. The truck was hella hard to get out of gear, and the pedal changed its pressure a lot. Well i changed it, and then the damn thing starts grinding all the time. Every gear!!. Now, i know if the transmission started going bad, it wouldnt be ALL gears would it, especially since it just started doing this when i looked at the clutch mc and noticed it was leaking into the cab. Now though, it is grinding, but it seems as if it IS disengaging. I don't know. The shifter is stiff, and the gears are grinding and notching. I do have some gear whine from the tranny, but that has been happening for a while now.

Last month i changed the timing chain, clutch, and slave cylinder. I don't know what to do next. I made sure the system was bled completely. If any of you have any ideas, please let me know. im almost tempted to take back the slave cylinder. process of elimination. I hope this is all it is, a trans is not what i have the money for.
another note, if you match the rpms to when the synchros are supposed to open, it shifts. the trans is full of gear oil. checked it earlier. MT90 redline 75w-90. gl4
 

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Try gravity bleeding everything.Take the cap off,and first bleed the master cylinder,then if there is one-inline ,I know on some older D21's have them-an little box inline,with a bleeder on it,and then the slave.Just open each one at a time,and make sure the master doesn't go dry-keep it filled. Let each bleed for 5 minutes or so-if you are getting a good,steady drip. Make sure you close each one before opening another.The center bleeder is important,if you have one-I forget what the heck it's called.
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #3
to my knowledge, there are is only one bleeder. ive only seen one, anyways. on the slave itself. there is only a line on the clutch master cylinder. this thing grinds going into reverse, 1st, 2nd, and third. 4th and 5th arent too bad. im just hoping it isnt roast.
 

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If you have 1,it's called a damper,and it is on the firewall,above the slave.Follow the line from the master cylinder,and it's about the size of a lighter.Maybe you don't have a bleeder on the master,so bleed it first from the damper.My book only goes to 91,and they have 1.
 

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might be grinding due to, not enough travel in the slave, weak mc or sc or air in the lines
Check it out I 'm thinking the same thing, Have your honey push in on the clutch while you watch and measure the travel of your slave cylinder. While she's doing that rebleed your system air may trapped in the distributor block located just on the firewall near the starter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
i tried bleeding it again today. the slave cylinder travels about an inch. it seems to me to be enough. it just is really stiff and doesnt want to go into gear. i did notice though, when someone pushes in the clutch, it clicks down there inside the tranny. i dont know what that is about. all i know is is that it moves the arm about an inch when the pedal is pressed. hahaha funny story, my girl just left like 5 days ago. bad timing......

it seems to do it worse when hot. when its cold, it doesnt do it as bad. but as soon as youve been running it on the highway or using the clutch a lot, it starts to act up to the point where i have to shift only at rpms where the synchros are open. i bled the slave, but ill go look for another bleeder tomorrow. i had that truck apart three weeks ago and i could swear ive never seen one.
 

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try pumping the cluth pedal 4 or five times before shifting into each gear. if the pedal pumps up and it shifts easier then you'll know that it is not bled completely. the damper on the firewall has to be bled before the slave cylinder.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
i was thinking it had something to do with the clutch. I bled the damper and the slave cylinder, the slave cylinder last and the damper first. there can be NO air in there now.

IT definately seems to dissengage, as it rolls back wards when on a small incline with the clutch pedal pressed.

I was thinking it might be my transmission. It has been abused the last 15xxx miles a little. I just don't understand how all three syncs or gears could go at once. The truck has a new Perfection clutch in it. I don't know how crappy these are, but it was a present for x-mas along with the timing chain seeing as i am a full time student. They wanted it to be more reliable. And all it seems to have done is make matters worse?

The truck has 157xxx miles on it.
 

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i was thinking it had something to do with the clutch. I bled the damper and the slave cylinder, the slave cylinder last and the damper first. there can be NO air in there now.

IT definately seems to dissengage, as it rolls back wards when on a small incline with the clutch pedal pressed.

I was thinking it might be my transmission. It has been abused the last 15xxx miles a little. I just don't understand how all three syncs or gears could go at once. The truck has a new Perfection clutch in it. I don't know how crappy these are, but it was a present for x-mas along with the timing chain seeing as i am a full time student. They wanted it to be more reliable. And all it seems to have done is make matters worse?

The truck has 157xxx miles on it.
How much lube is in your trans?
 

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Another thing that will do that when hot, is if the flywheel surface hasn't been cleaned. They don't always need resurfaced,but clutch material and normal build-up of dirt & oil,will casue this to happen.
Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #13
well heres the thing. my retarded self blew my rear. i got stuck in the snow, was in a really bad mood, and overspun the tires. i already wasnt having a good day. 20 miles later my rearend started roaring. sounded like a bearing. so i filled it up with lucas, which made it quiet down.

my clutch chatters as well. i guess i didnt break it in enough before deciding to to a 6300 rpm holeshot. we scuffed the surface with some memory cloth before putting in the new clutch. i have bled both bleeders, and adjusted the pedal for the cylinder. it didnt grind until after the clutch cylinder went bad. but when i changed it, it still grinds. from time to time, after a long run, it will sometimes get stuck in gear. the slave cylinder moves that lever on the tranny far, so i dont think i have a weak slave or master cylinder. So, when this rear goes, i need to know how to swap an lsd in there. any info would be greatly appreciated for doing that.

I was also thinking of running a single exhaust out the side in front of the rear tire. from the cat back. I dont have the time or money to get a custom mid pipe and headers to deal with the emissions crap. i was thinking 2.5 inch pipe with a magnaflow or the like muffler. something mean sounding but manageable.

sorry for all the questions. what can i do for more power for the engine? i tried to add the k&n filter, but it wouldnt fit in the damn airbox. : [
 

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I would go with a 6" or 7" round Magnaflow muffler with a minimum lenght og 18", and high flow cat and you should be pleased; I'm running 2.25" with a 7" round Magnaflow muffler, 14" body and it was a little raspy/rifling and I added resonator tip to quite it down @ full throttle, Plus I've got some Pacesetter header and his baby pulls really hard!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
the tranny is full of lube. the thing i noticed today was interesting. when its warmer outside (warmer than 45 degrees) it doesnt seem to grind at all. The trans has redline mt-90 in it, which i was told was fine for the trans. it is gl4, not gl5. so we can rule that out.

so what im trying to figure out, is whether something is wrong mechanically with my clutch, or something is wrong with my transmission. hopefully someone will have some epiphany.
 

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I guessing that it shifts basically the same way, whether the tranny is warmed up or cold.If so, I would rule the fluid out. I would look at the slave, and see if it is holding steady,with the petal down. It could be an internal pressure leak in the slave, that acts up more with colder temps.
Good Luck
 

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Well your problem is interesting, and strange to see someone on here who is experiencing the exact same thing that I'm dealing with.
I've got a 93 hardbody 2.4L 4x4.
Same thing as you described happend in my situation. Its kinda funny to hear you talkin bout it, as I too was getting frustrated trying to bleed the sucker. I thought for the longest time that I didnt bleed it right or that the slave cylinder wasnt pushing out enough. Mine has the Damper bleeder and the slave bleeder.

I noticed one day when I was driving that it no longer wanted to shift into gear. I'd push the clutch in and try to go into first and it would just grind. I could get it into 4th and 5th and all but not reverse.
If I put it in first gear, then started the truck with the clutch in it would want to slowly pull forward like it was catching (but not fully) and when I let out the clutch it would grab like it was supposed to. So the fist thing I did was looked at the MC and saw it was empty. I figured out that the slave cylinder had went bad so I replaced it and thought my problem would be solved.
But just like your situation it wasnt... which was why I assumed it hadnt been bled properly. well I finally got tired of bleeding it and dropped the tranny and pulled the clutch out.
Springs were broken on the clutch disk, the throw out bearing practically fell apart when I took it off. It was in bad shape. It was a Luk brand clutch kit that someone else put in before my ownership of it. But I'm assuming that was the problem for me. Im putting a fenco clutch kit in it now... should be done tomorrow. . . and have posted a thread asking the opinion of Luk vs Fenco quality before coming across your thread. Maybe your "perfection" clutch isnt so perfect... or wasnt Perfectly installed??? I dont know but our situations are the same and I would assume that it has something to do with your clutch too... I'll find out tomorrow if that is indeed was the problem when I go to drive mine.

Hope my input helped.:balls:
 
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