[kamarozss]

my 1991 nissan sentra wont start when i first turn the key, it take about 30 seconds of cranking before it starts up, and then misses a little before idleing normal. ive changed the plugs and wires and changed the fuel filter. I dont think its the fuel pump because it runs fine until i cut it off and try to start it again. any ideas?

 

[OchnofConcrete]

hmmm...
does it run good when it starts?

just do a run around of all the starting components..
TPSensor/throttle
CPSensor/Distributor timing**

depends on how it sounds, how it smells.

you smell fuel in each of the plug holes.. the injectors work
you get fire on each plug when it's in the sparkplug wire... the distributor works
air is always there, even if you pull the intake tubing past the air box off...
honestly, i think the MAF is only an precaution; an engine works with just the throttle and nothign before that. that's how old 350's work... with no MAF.

try pulling the ECU codes. that'll help.

 

[OchnofConcrete]

if your distributor cap has been moved too far in either direction... that's a way of messing with the timing...
take off the two bolts holding it on but keep it on there, and try starting the engine with it in different positions... being careful to keep it close to TDC.

 

[rogoman]

If your car has the SR motor, then there's a device mounted on the engine called an air regulator which is located on the passenger's side of the engine, near the back, below the intake manifold. When the engine is cold and idling, the air regulator allows additional air to flow to the engine thus maintaining a good idle. There's a good chance the air regulator is defective or the electrical connections are bad.

If you've got the GA motor, then the fast idle cam may need adjustment.

 

[kamarozss]

If if buy the ecu code reader, do you think it will pick up a code?

 

[greenbean699]

you dont need a code reader. its a waste of $$$ do a search on how to read codes.

 

[kamarozss]

It was the coolant temp. sensor. I took it to a auto shop and the temp sensor was saying the engine was-30 degrees. 45$ fix. thanks to all that helped

 

[bennyfizzle]

So I'm having a similar issue and didn't want to start another thread:

Car started and ran fine about a week ago, but always had a prob;em once it got warm in that it would hesitate for a split second when you blip the throttle or try to accelerate, and would sometimes die out if you let off the throttle quickly after applying throttle...well I just went to move it and it won't stay running. 1993 Sentra XE, turns over fine, seems like it wants to start, and 20% of the time does turn over and run for a few seconds. If I let it run it'll go for MAYBE 5 seconds and chug out. If I even think about touching the throttle it chugs out (dies).

Just swapped the fuel filter with a new one, has a few fresh gallons of gas in it too with a bottle of drygas. Didn't help whatsoever but the fuel system was pressurized, and I have the taste in my mouth to prove it haha.

Within 20k it has a fresh dis cap and rotor, plugs, and wires.

Any ideas? I'm still searching around but figured I'd post here just in case.

 

[Sentra E]

honestly, i think the MAF is only an precaution; an engine works with just the throttle and nothign before that. that's how old 350's work... with no MAF.

My '92 Sentra will not run without the MAF connected to the intake tube. It starts, runs for a second and dies. If you try to give it gas, it dies faster. Connect the MAF back to the intake tube, runs fine.

 

[OchnofConcrete]

didn't say it would run without it. said it's an ecu precaution. let the engine know how much air is going into the engine due to the friction temperature on the MAF's film... i didn't say it would run without it. I SAID that it's a precaution. if you had an ECU that didn't care about the MAF, you wouldn't need it now would you?

 

[Sentra E]

didn't say it would run without it. said it's an ecu precaution. let the engine know how much air is going into the engine due to the friction temperature on the MAF's film...

My bad, I misunderstood what you were saying.

i didn't say it would run without it. I SAID that it's a precaution. if you had an ECU that didn't care about the MAF, you wouldn't need it now would you?

Heard you the first time.