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Hello. I have a 90’ rhd 300zx. Had to do a knock sensor replacement. Did the water pump and thermostat, gaskets, etc but now I can’t get the timing belt to line up correctly. Any tips or recommendations? Possibly anyone in Omaha Nebraska know how to and would want to make some good money? Thanks!
 

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The following is a writeup from SMJ999SMJ who explains timing belt installations much better:

"I always replace the front cam and cranks seals when I do a VG timing belt. Don't concern yourself too much with the timing marks on the rear timing cover as they are always a tooth off; concentrate on the timing lines on the new timing belt, which there will be one "dotted" line and two "solid" lines, along with an arrow on the belt. The arrow points to the front of the vehicle. The dotted line aligns with the timing mark on the passenger side cam sprocket and the two solid lines will line up with the timing mark on the driver's side cam sprocket and crank sprocket, respectively. The crank sprocket timing mark should sit at 5:00 position. As long as those white lines on the belt match up to the marks on the sprockets as described, the engine will be properly timing. Some make the mistake of overtightening the belt, which results in a whining noise.
Get the belt in place and lined up and release the nut on the tensioner, allowing it to pull out the slack. Turn the passenger cam sprocket counter-clockwise a little and the tensioner will pull out the remaining slack. Torque the tensioner nut to 35 ft-lb. Turn the passenger side cam clockwise a little. Take your thumb and forefinger and try to twist the belt 90-degrees at the center of the span between the two cam sprockets. If you can't, the belt is too tight; if you can twist it more than 90-degrees, it's too lose. I've done hundreds of VG timing belts and this method has worked for me every time! Make sure you stick with a genuine Nissan thermostat! The hardest part of the job is getting the old water pump gasket off of the front of the engine; I usually use a combination of a razor blade and a right angle die grinder with a Roto-lock and medium Scotch pad disc on it. As far as the cam and crank seals, I soften them up with carb cleaner and use genuine Nissan seals. Grease the inside of the seal before installing."
 
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