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Discussion Starter #1
i recently purchased this car off of a friend for 800 bucks, the transmission, the clutch, the lights and electrical, everything is fine but the engine bogs, i'm burning coolant and oil, i figured it was either the head gasket or a crack in the head,
i found a replacement engine at the local auto wreckers for about 400 bucks
the engine has been compression tested and 3 of the cylinders sit at 175 psi, and the last at 160 psi, i was wondering what the normal compression of these engines is, and if anyone had any helpful hints on an engine swap with one of these.
as well anywhere a rebuild kit and turbo kit if possible for this engine.
 

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175 sounds about right. sr20de's are spec'd at 180 and det's are at 150 I think. Also I wouldn't worry about the 160. Most engines vary easily by 5 to 10psi compression from cylinder to cylinder. Commonly a difference of under 14 psi is considered OK. I'm not sure what the spec is on those older engines.
 

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scratch everything i said. didn't know what i was talking about. i believe this is the CA16DE?? i'd personally upgrade to the CA18DE. punchier and definately workable. not that the CA16 isn't... it's just lacking at the base.

edit2: don't know about turbo kits. the most difficult thing is probably finding a turbo manifold. if you can do that you'd be set. again, if you want to turbo the car, the CA18DE is a better choice. there was a stock turbo version (CA18DET in the first S13) but it was a RWD setup. it can be mounted, nit it's again, alotta extra work. the advantage of the CA18DE? the support is there.
 

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the ca18de has 10:1 compression and not something i would boost as it is stock.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
thanks for your help guys. The replacement motor i found is a cheap stock one for now so that i can get back and fourth to work but the CA18DET does look like a good deal, shame they only come with trannys on that site,
i also noticed a click just occur in my engine as of this morning, i believe it is the timing belt, this old one definately has to go, anyone have any advice on changing the timing belt , and/or timing belt specs?
 

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if your wanting to change the timing belt, have a whole day and a extra hand ready. it will go smooth this way. its possible to change it by your self but its not fun.

i have changed mine 2 times due to water pump failure. getting the cams and crank aligned are priory.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yes well this car will now need a few days as i'm not driving it until i get this fixed and now possibly the engine . Any advice on aligning the cams or diagrams and the crank aligned?
i am also considering replacing the struts and sparkplugs while it's up on blocks to get it going once again. this thing is old and definately needs some work but an 87 pulsar nx se for 800 bucks how can you not right?
 

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i used vice grips to hold the cams in place so i could put the belt on. you will notice that the cams want to jump to the next lobe when you are on the mark. the marks are on the black backing plate bolted to the head. the crank mark must be aligned on the compression stroke, using the #1 cylinder. how many miles are on the engine? you might wanna replace the tensioner and idler. and maybe the water pump since you have to take the timing belt off to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
thank you for the advice with the vice grips, as yes i could definately see the cams trying to jump. and thank you for the help with aligning the cams and crankshaft that is very useful information, yes its got 200,000 on it but i'm only using it for probably another month or so before i install a new engine i just need it to get me back and fourth to work for the next little bit. for the new engine i had planned on purchasing a new timing belt and components as well.
 

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LA Ca - 1987 Pulsar w/ CA16DE DOHC w/SPORT BACK or SPORT BAK For REPAIR or SALVAGE

My 1987 Silver Pulsar NX w/ Sport Bak, owned & babied for past 26 years, 126K original Miles - motor rebuilt @ 100k miles. I had a slight accident : ( Front Right Wheel driven over curb to avoid accident. Damaged undercarriage / RT Tire & Wheel, Control Arm, drive, & bit of fender damage. Insurance says "Salvage." I know there are collectors & rebuilders seeking rare parts out there. Rather than have it towed to junk yard, thought I'd offer it up whole or in parts. Anyone interested, please contact me asap. Sportbak alone should make it worth while to contact me - CA16DE engine is in great condition, just passed CA Smog & interior Seats - Covered great condition - T - Tops do not leak. Headlights still flip up & down. The only non-functioning parts are the Sportbak gas lifts. Not a big deal because I installed a slide on lift to lock lid in UP position when open. You may email me your name & Ph# at [email protected] - I'll reply asap. First come First Serve. Car is at my mechanics awaiting insurance outcome.
 
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