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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The Car currently has a CA16DE engine and Manual Transaxle.

I am in the process of collecting the parts to do this swap. I'm still researching the engine to determine exactly which CA18DET engine to get.
From what I have been able to decipher from everthing I've read is there are several generations (Three that I have seen mentioned) and getting the one from the right doner car saves the hassle of finding induction and exhaust parts not to mention accessory mountings.

Also I will be replaceing the Manual Transaxle with one from a CA18DE. Will I need to replace the half shafts and if so is the 1988 Pulsar with a CA18DE have the same halfshafts for Automatic and Manual Transaxles. I have only managed to find a 1988 Pulsar NX SE Automatic at PullAPart at this time to get doner parts from so I want to get what I can while I can.

At this time I have located a ECU from a CA16DE that has been programmed for the CA18DET so I can avoid building a nightmare of a wiring harness (It will just be a very bad dream). This particular ECU if programmed for 550cc instead of 370cc Injectors so I still have to verify that this is what I want to
do I will aparently have to get a Z32 MAF as well.

This is a project car for me and my 12 year old son. He's just getting interested in Girls and Cars and this is someting we can spend time together doing. I have build and rebuild cars (Mostly Mustangs) for the past 25 years but never an import. In the end this is going to be a daily driver so it needs to be build with that in mind. I plan to retain the AC and other than the normal maintance any car needs I would like to avoid having to work on it every weekend.


So with all that said any advice/warning would really be appreciated.
 

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Im glad to see someone getting hands durty rather than keep asking questions ... as for the axles, id wait till i find the right tranny. we know nissan is ramdomly changing size on some models. The best way i can suggest to get all the needed part would be find the right donor. i dont know how much power you will want to get from this car. Over 10psi it will get pretty harsh on the clutch of the ca16de... on stock boost i heard the feels like very close ratio from the ca16 transmission... (i still got a center force dual friction in the ads for sale ;)) ... from wath i know, boost is addictive and youll want to go higher then 10psi at some point.. also the ECU package you got yourself isnt probably made to run on lower than 10. Youll find the swap quite easy with the how-to i posted in the sticky... i got myself the whole kit (for the b12) last year.. it consisted of

tranny,clutch, flywheel
mounts (all corners) you probably only need the rear one and the tranny side one.
all the hydrolic for the clutch + cylindre (i suggest you use new stuff here)
the clutch pedal (might be useful i never compared the difference between the cable one)
from there with the experience you have with car it should almost be a piece of cake.

P.s the clutch assembly can be mounted/unmounted with the dash still in place but beware of back pain ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Crazy-Mart said:
Im glad to see someone getting hands durty rather than keep asking questions ... as for the axles, id wait till i find the right tranny. we know nissan is ramdomly changing size on some models. The best way i can suggest to get all the needed part would be find the right donor. i dont know how much power you will want to get from this car. Over 10psi it will get pretty harsh on the clutch of the ca16de... on stock boost i heard the feels like very close ratio from the ca16 transmission... (i still got a center force dual friction in the ads for sale ;)) ... from wath i know, boost is addictive and youll want to go higher then 10psi at some point.. also the ECU package you got yourself isnt probably made to run on lower than 10. Youll find the swap quite easy with the how-to i posted in the sticky... i got myself the whole kit (for the b12) last year.. it consisted of

tranny,clutch, flywheel
mounts (all corners) you probably only need the rear one and the tranny side one.
all the hydrolic for the clutch + cylindre (i suggest you use new stuff here)
the clutch pedal (might be useful i never compared the difference between the cable one)
from there with the experience you have with car it should almost be a piece of cake.

P.s the clutch assembly can be mounted/unmounted with the dash still in place but beware of back pain ;)
I will be using a CA18DE Manual Transmission for sure and as for the amount of boost thats still a big question mark in my mind. I don't want
to end up with a combination that is constantly breaking drive-line or
engine parts. It will be a daily driver and since I live in the south it's gotta
have air conditioning. A doner car hasn't been easy to come by, so far the only NX SE I have found is a 1988 but it is an automatic. If I can find a 88 or 89 SE with a manual I'll buy the entire driveline but they aren't always complete. My biggest concern is finding out which CA18DET to purchase. I have seen at least 3 different setups and apparently if you buy the wrong one you have to go out and find a Induction and Exhaust setup that will work in the Pulsar (US Model).

Thanks for the info!
 

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you should be probably looking for a U11 or U12 (top mount intercooler one) bluebird engine. the first one got the middle TB, the second one got the side way intake manifold... the one you want to avoid is the S13 RWD engine... intake manifold,engine mount and plenty of other stuff will need to be changed...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Crazy-Mart said:
you should be probably looking for a U11 or U12 (top mount intercooler one) bluebird engine. the first one got the middle TB, the second one got the side way intake manifold... the one you want to avoid is the S13 RWD engine... intake manifold,engine mount and plenty of other stuff will need to be changed...
Thanks. I've seen all three for sale and was leaning toward the one that exits toward the driverside. I hope that will make it easier to plumb the front mount turbo. The only other decision I need to make now is the size injectors and amount of boost. I will be tearing down the engine when I get it and inspecting everything and at least replacing all the bearings and rings. The head will get a valve job with all new valves springs seals and keepers. Not sure about the cams yet the only ones I have found cost about $700.00.
I need to find out if the pistons are cast or forged and if a forged set can be found. I also have been trying to find a metal head gasket. I know that HKS made one but I can't find one yet.
 

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Pulsar-NX-SE said:
Thanks. I've seen all three for sale and was leaning toward the one that exits toward the driverside. I hope that will make it easier to plumb the front mount turbo. The only other decision I need to make now is the size injectors and amount of boost. I will be tearing down the engine when I get it and inspecting everything and at least replacing all the bearings and rings. The head will get a valve job with all new valves springs seals and keepers. Not sure about the cams yet the only ones I have found cost about $700.00.
I need to find out if the pistons are cast or forged and if a forged set can be found. I also have been trying to find a metal head gasket. I know that HKS made one but I can't find one yet.
Please keep me in the loop on how you're doing w/ everything. I'm doing the same thing as you but I'm having to convert my XE to an SE first and the parts thing is hell.
 

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the one with the top mount is the best one you can buy (will come with 4wd tranny probably)... for the cam, a simple upgrade for you here : use the intake cam from the Ca16de.. the exhaust side is the same on both engine but the intake is a little bit bigger... makes for a non costy upgrade. if youre staying under the 15psi, the 370cc (stock units) should be alright. you could also get 450cc from some DSM engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Crazy-Mart said:
the one with the top mount is the best one you can buy (will come with 4wd tranny probably)... for the cam, a simple upgrade for you here : use the intake cam from the Ca16de.. the exhaust side is the same on both engine but the intake is a little bit bigger... makes for a non costy upgrade. if youre staying under the 15psi, the 370cc (stock units) should be alright. you could also get 450cc from some DSM engine.

Thanks. I plan to run between 10 and 12 psi (No more than 12). Just to make certain then the 550cc Injectors aren't the best Idea. If it's just a money issue I can afford the new injectors. My budget isn't limitless but if the 550cc injectors have a major negative effect on mileage, durability, driveability or they just don't give much more performance then I will go for the 370cc injectors. If there is a big benefit with the bigger injectors I will go for them. I have found several sources for the 550cc Injectors for $400.00. I also found a used ECU that is programed for the 550's for $400.00 + shipping. I can get a custom programmed ECU from JWT that I can specify the Injector size and the MAF for 590.00 (I supply the ECU). Obviously it would be cheaper to get JWT to program the ECU for the 370cc injectors since I wound not have to spend 400.00 on the 550cc injectors plus 400.00 + shipping on the used ECU ($800.00 +). I want to end up with between 225 and 300 hp Any thoughts would be welcomed. btw I can use the intake cam from the ca16de thats in the car now.

THANKS!!!
 

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the Ca18det comes with 370cc injectors (the DE comes with 270cc)... for 10-12 psi is enough to keep them. good for up to ~16psi. I suggest you get the JWT ecu for the 370cc, the cam (ca16 upgrade if they do the program for it) and a larger MAF like the 300zx TT/Maxima maf... this way you get the less restriction on the intake and it is ready for big HP. you should get around 225hp with 10-12 psi. to get close to the 300hp youll need a front mount intercooler, bigger turbo like T03/T4 or a T28 ball bearing unit (the stock T25 will be good till 16-17psi max before the maximum flow rate of it make its life miserable/shorter). Never forget that the bigger the turbo the more air-flow it gets at same psi figure... youll make a lot more power on a T3/[email protected] than a [email protected] If you want to save some money in the long run, i suggest you do make the upgrade before sending in your ecu, this way you wont have to send it again for retuning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Crazy-Mart said:
the Ca18det comes with 370cc injectors (the DE comes with 270cc)... for 10-12 psi is enough to keep them. good for up to ~16psi. I suggest you get the JWT ecu for the 370cc, the cam (ca16 upgrade if they do the program for it) and a larger MAF like the 300zx TT/Maxima maf... this way you get the less restriction on the intake and it is ready for big HP. you should get around 225hp with 10-12 psi. to get close to the 300hp youll need a front mount intercooler, bigger turbo like T03/T4 or a T28 ball bearing unit (the stock T25 will be good till 16-17psi max before the maximum flow rate of it make its life miserable/shorter). Never forget that the bigger the turbo the more air-flow it gets at same psi figure... youll make a lot more power on a T3/[email protected] than a [email protected] If you want to save some money in the long run, i suggest you do make the upgrade before sending in your ecu, this way you wont have to send it again for retuning.
Thanks for the info I did not know the stock injectors were 270cc (Guess I should have researched that one a little better). 225hp would work fine for me but I will initially start with a T3/T4 or T28 depending on were I am at with my budget at the time. I would prefer to start with a larger volume Turbo initially so I can deal with any install/clearance problem up front and
the Turbo will be new (You never know how long a used one will last).

Thanks
 

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Getting a new turbo is probably the wisest decision. T3/T04 turbo's are great turbo replacement as boost_boy can confirm that. Decide on what turbo you prefer to use and A/R ratio, then you can figure out how many PSI you should be running depending on the condition of the engine and tuning potential. I think it is a wrong approach to decide how many PSI to run, than figuring out first on the turbo selection. Just my 2 cents. BTW post some pics of your progress if you can.
 
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