[Kennyfa5]

Hello nissan bros my father has a 1986 d21 it was running fine when he tries to start it it cranks but does not start checked fusible links all good, changed ecu still no spark, changed coils nothing, I've come to the conclusion its the distributor or the crank angel sensor but I checked ecu codes so no code 11. Help would be appreciated especially those who had this truck in the past. Thank you

 

[jp2code]

Not many people think to check the Fusible Links, so +1 for that. I'll assume that you replaced the fuel filter recently, too, since that is a noobie mistake.

What about the plugs? Are they wet from fuel and no fire or dry? If they are dry, you have fire or no fuel. If you have fire but not starting, I'd say look at the ignition timing. The 86.5 had the VG30i with a round tooth belt that is supposed to last about 60k miles. If it broke, then you are not turning the overhead cams. It also had the Z24i, but it used a chain, and is not so problematic. You didn't say what engine you are running.

 

[Kennyfa5]

Injectors are working fine and its a vg30i, the timing belt is a year old, spark plugs are new im gonna have to check ignition timing.

 

[rogoman]

Injectors are working fine and its a vg30i, the timing belt is a year old, spark plugs are new im gonna have to check ignition timing.

The camshaft position sensor in the distributor most likely is bad; to replace it, you would have to replace the entire distributor. The distributors in that year range have been known to cause that problem. When replacing a distributor, purchase an OEM remanuafactured unit; aftermarket types generally don't last long, not reliable and many times are DOA.

If your timing belt has not been replaced after 60,000 mi, then it needs to be replaced ASAP. You don't need a string of bent valves!

 

[Kennyfa5]

Not many people think to check the Fusible Links, so +1 for that. I'll assume that you replaced the fuel filter recently, too, since that is a noobie mistake.

What about the plugs? Are they wet from fuel and no fire or dry? If they are dry, you have fire or no fuel. If you have fire but not starting, I'd say look at the ignition timing. The 86.5 had the VG30i with a round tooth belt that is supposed to last about 60k miles. If it broke, then you are not turning the overhead cams. It also had the Z24i, but it used a chain, and is not so problematic. You didn't say what engine you are running.

So checked ignition timing its dead on I've come to the conclusion the crank sensor is shot but no ecu code.

 

[Kennyfa5]

The camshaft position sensor in the distributor most likely is bad; to replace it, you would have to replace the entire distributor. The distributors in that year range have been known to cause that problem. When replacing a distributor, purchase an OEM remanuafactured unit; aftermarket types generally don't last long, not reliable and many times are DOA.

If your timing belt has not been replaced after 60,000 mi, then it needs to be replaced ASAP. You don't need a string of bent valves!

I checked for ecu codes no codes showed up.

 

[jp2code]

So checked ignition timing its dead on I've come to the conclusion the crank sensor is shot but no ecu code.

Bad distributors are weird, or at least they act weird to me. There's a mechanic on here who goes by something like smj, and he is pretty good at diagnosing bad distributors - or at least I've seen him do that in the past.

I'm not saying it is the distributor, but it's possible.

If you decide to buy a replacement, I have a couple for sale on Facebook.

This is a new Spectra Premium distributor:

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

The other is the original distributor with the wires and all:

Log into Facebook

Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.

www.facebook.com

Shamelessly promoting my items, I guess.