'13 Rogue SV Acceleration Issues

One of the first things to do is perform an ECU code readout with a portable scan tool to see if any fault codes are set. The tool can be purchased at most auto parts stores. The condition you're describing can be caused by a marginal crankshaft position sensor or a camshaft position sensor. If you're buying one or both of them, buy only OEM units from a new car dealer. Don't buy aftermarket types; they've been known to fail in a short time; some are even DOA.

To properly diagnose dirty/leaking fuel injectors, they need to be remove and tested on a flow bench tester.

To test the fuel pressure, Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail input. The reading at idle should be approximately 51 psi.
You can also do a quick leak test by teeing-in a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel rail input, then turn the ignition switch to the "RUN" position without starting the engine; make sure to pinch off the return hose on the pressure regulator when doing this. If the pressure drops off rapidly, one or more injectors are leaking.

How long have you had the old spark plugs? If they are very old, then it's time for a set of new ones.

You may be running a lean mixture that can be caused by some of the following:
- Improper spark plug
- Insufficient compression
- Incorrect fuel pressure
- Dirty fuel injectors
- Intake system vacuum leak
- Incorrect PCV hose connection

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You may have an intake system vacuum leak. Use a vacuum gauge for good accuracy; most auto parts stores sell vacuum gauges. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source, usually somewhere on the intake manifold. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be around 21 InHg.

If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle body and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.

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You may have a plugged CAT. The easiest test for converter plugging is done with a vacuum gauge. Connect the gauge to a source of intake vacuum on the intake manifold, carburetor or throttle body. Note the reading at idle, then raise and hold engine speed at 2,500. The needle will drop when you first open the throttle, but should then rise and stabilize. If the vacuum reading starts to drop, pressure may be backing up in the exhaust system.