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My 2005 Nissan Maxima SE last night had the Emergency Brake light and the Battery light pop on on my dashboard while I was at a stoplight. As I drove along it would flicker on and off but I would intermittently lose power to the pedal. The car never died however and when I switched it into Neutral, I would gain power to the pedal again.

Long story short, It only happened for the first 5 minutes of driving and I was able to get home.

From what have read online it sounds like my alternator could be going out or the serpentine belt might be slipping. I wasn't able to verify that last night but I will be checking tonight when I bring home a multi-meter.

My question is would the alternator going out affect only my acceleration even though all other electrical components looked and acted fine? Is there something else I should be looking into besides that?


No codes popped up (I have an OBD reader)
Car has 150K miles and from what I've seen in the history of repairs, the alternator is original.

Thanks! :)
 

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I had the same exact thing happen on my 2008 Maxima. I changed the alternator and every thing ran fine after that.

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A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec, and the factory service manual should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, the first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch to the "ON" position without starting the engine and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) white wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight.

When replacing electrical components such as alternators, starters and distributors, fuel injectors and sensors, always replace with new or reman'd Nissan OEM components; aftermarket components generally don't last long, don't work right and many times are DOA.
 
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