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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 02 pathfinder, the abs light has been on for 2 years and that’s it. The truck was running fine no check engine light I went to start it yesterday and it just cranks, doesn’t event attempt to grab, it just keeps cranking. When I plug in the obd2 the scanner doesn’t even read the truck, it asks me to chose from a list of cars. I was thinking about changing the crank position sensor if anyone has any ideas of what it could be I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you
 

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Sounds like there is no power to the ECU, or its bad. do lights and dash lights come up. do the warning lights cycle when you turn on?
 

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I have a 02 pathfinder, the abs light has been on for 2 years and that’s it. The truck was running fine no check engine light I went to start it yesterday and it just cranks, doesn’t event attempt to grab, it just keeps cranking. When I plug in the obd2 the scanner doesn’t even read the truck, it asks me to chose from a list of cars. I was thinking about changing the crank position sensor if anyone has any ideas of what it could be I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you
Don't just go blindly and start replacing parts. First find out where the problem is. First check your fuses; if they're OK, then at this point you'll have to determine if there's an ignition or fuel delivery problem:

* Testing fuel delivery:
Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. Turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. The fuel pressure reading should be around 43 psi which would be a static reading. A bad reading here could be due to a bad FPR or bad fuel pump.

The fuel injectors may not be firing. This can be tested with a "noid" light probe for each injector harness connector; the probe kit can be puchased at most auto parts stores or online at Amazon.com.

* Testing ignition:
Pull several coil packs to test; use a spare spark plug in the coil pack to test; ground the plug base with a jumper wire to the engine block; see if you're getting a spark while trying to start the engine.

* The cam timing may be incorrect:
Check for a broken chain guide. See if it's broken or it may be cracked and has skipped some teeth.

* There may be a major intake system vacuum leak. Check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.

-------------------------------------------------------------------

Finally in the end. If you're not getting ignition or fuel injectors not working, then
a common problem like this is a bad camshaft position sensor or a bad crankshaft position sensor. Most of the time when this happens, the "check engine light" never comes on; subsequently when performing an ECU code readout, there was no fault code set. There's been many members here on the forum that have had problems similar to yours and the fix was replacing those two sensors.

The best and cheapest fix for this situation is to replace both sensors at the same time; the reason for doing this is there is no way to determine which sensor is at fault with this type of condition.

When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $75.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
  1. Don't just go blindly and start replacing parts. First find out where the problem is. First check your fuses; if they're OK, then at this point you'll have to determine if there's an ignition or fuel delivery problem:

    * Testing fuel delivery:
    Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge between the fuel feed hose and the fuel rail. Turn the ignition key to the run position but DO NOT TRY TO START THE ENGINE. The fuel pressure reading should be around 43 psi which would be a static reading. A bad reading here could be due to a bad FPR or bad fuel pump.

    The fuel injectors may not be firing. This can be tested with a "noid" light probe for each injector harness connector; the probe kit can be puchased at most auto parts stores or online at Amazon.com.

    * Testing ignition:
    Pull several coil packs to test; use a spare spark plug in the coil pack to test; ground the plug base with a jumper wire to the engine block; see if you're getting a spark while trying to start the engine.

    * The cam timing may be incorrect:
    Check for a broken chain guide. See if it's broken or it may be cracked and has skipped some teeth.

    * There may be a major intake system vacuum leak. Check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle valve and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.

    -------------------------------------------------------------------

    Finally in the end. If you're not getting ignition or fuel injectors not working, then
    a common problem like this is a bad camshaft position sensor or a bad crankshaft position sensor. Most of the time when this happens, the "check engine light" never comes on; subsequently when performing an ECU code readout, there was no fault code set. There's been many members here on the forum that have had problems similar to yours and the fix was replacing those two sensors.

    The best and cheapest fix for this situation is to replace both sensors at the same time; the reason for doing this is there is no way to determine which sensor is at fault with this type of condition.

    When replacing sensors, always use Nissan OEM parts from a Nissan dealer; aftermarket electronic items generally are not reliable, don't last long, and many times are DOA. The sensors are not very expensive; around $75.
    Thank you very much for all of your input, I’m going to be returning the crank position sensor, I got it at advanced auto and it was $120.
    I heard the fuel pump come on with the key and I gave it gas as I was starting and could smell it, so I thought the fuel system was ok, it seemed like there was no spark. I had to get it towed to a mechanic because I don’t have the computers that they have, I only have the craftsman obd2 code reader and the here was no codes, no check engine light. So the mechanic said he’s positive it’s the ignition immobilizer, I hope so because I just got one from Nissan for $265, I’ll find out at the end of the day if it works. The mechanics at the dealer said it’s plug and play, but my mechanic said he might have to get it programmed. I’ll find out at the end of today. Thank you again.
 

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Your previous post indicated yhe OBD2 reader didnt work ie gave you a list of cars. Is the ECU responding correctly when read ?.
hope yuh our solution works, good luck.
 
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