200sx sr20 key on engine off or on issue please help!! - Nissan Forum
SR-Series Engines (DE/VE) Engine Discussion: G20, 91-94 Sentra SE-R, NX2K, 95-98 200SX SE-R, 98-01 Sentra SE

 
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post #1 of 12 Old Apr 9th, 2015, 11:30 PM Thread Starter
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200sx sr20 key on engine off or on issue please help!!

Ok so I have a 1996 200sx with an sr20 engine... I bought off a friend and inherited the problems that came with it.. Its been doing this for some time and many steps have been taken to try and remedy the issue please help!!

The issue is when the engine is running after a few minutes the engine shuts off. Suddenly. No sputter no spitting just dead. Like the switch has been turned off.
The issue when the engine is off but they key is in the run position after the same amount of time around 5 minutes inside the engine compartment I can hear clicking like someone has turned the key off then back on. I'm stumped
I removed the ECM and ran the self diagnoses on it and then cleared the old codes my friend didn't know how to just to see if it would throw new ones...Nope no check engine no new codes.

Parts Replaced before I bought it trying to rectify the issue
Fuel pump (Complete assembly) has been replaced twice as well as the fuel filter twice
Fuel Pump relay
Fuel pressure regulator
Distributor cap and button
Vacuum lines completely swapped out
Mass air flow sensor and air filter
O2 sensors
Throttle position sensor
Alternator and battery
Starter
Harmonic Balancer..(I know not related but was a bad part at the time and trying to be thorough)


I am leaning towards either the ignition switch or the ECM.. But this is only my first day working on this car and its a shot in the dark at most for me..
Please someone throw some ideas at me ....


Last edited by Masprotech; Apr 9th, 2015 at 11:33 PM.
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post #2 of 12 Old Apr 10th, 2015, 09:44 AM
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After the engine shuts off by itself, are you able to restart it immediately; then how long will it run before it shuts off again. Also while it's running, does it run rough or smooth.

At this point it'll have to be determined if there's a fuel delivery problem or an ignition problem. For fuel delivery, tee-in a fuel pressure gauge at the output side of the fuel filter. Start the engine and watch the gauge for any sudden drop off in pressure. The pressure normally should be around 34 psi. To test for ignition, you can use an in-line spark tester.

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post #3 of 12 Old Apr 10th, 2015, 07:33 PM Thread Starter
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Sometimes it will restart right away sometimes it takes a minute or two. For instance today it ran for 45 minutes and just cut off. Turned the key and it started right back up. Then it ran for a few minutes died and it took a few seconds but it started back up. It runs smooth. I did notice today it surged while idling. Keep in mind I'm not driving this car. It's sitting still in neutral.
The weird thing though to me is that if I have the key on. And the engine off I can hear the clicks and buzzes as it springs to life all the solenoids and relays. I can leave the key on and engine off for around the same amount of time like I do when it's running and to me it sounds as if someone is in the car and turns the key off then on again. Not literally like I can hear the key click over. But under the hood I can hear all the things die the spring back to life again. It does this on its own at different intervals. I'm checking the ignition switch now. So far it tests good. Any other ideas? And thanks for your reply and help
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post #4 of 12 Old Apr 10th, 2015, 08:46 PM
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It might be a good idea to check all the engine grounds.

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post #5 of 12 Old Apr 10th, 2015, 08:47 PM Thread Starter
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I will do that first thing tomorrow.. Now just to find out how many there are...lol
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post #6 of 12 Old Apr 12th, 2015, 04:14 PM Thread Starter
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Ok so latest on this issue is there seems to be no issue at the moment!!!

I erased the codes from the ecm and pulled a bad stereo out of the car and it hasnt died since.. I dont get it... I also adjust the idle air screw on the top of the valve cover(round plastic plug with phillips head screwdriver place on it) and drove the car like a bat out of hell on bumpy roads and around my 4 mile block twice with no issue at all... what the hell?
Could I have done something to remedy this by what ive told you?
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post #7 of 12 Old Apr 12th, 2015, 05:07 PM
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Erasing the ECM codes doesn't fix anything; however the aftermarket stereo could have been the "bad guy" all along depending how it was wired up. We have many members here that install aftermarket electrical components incorrectly and end up with drivability problems.

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post #8 of 12 Old Apr 12th, 2015, 06:36 PM Thread Starter
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Well I actually wired it in myself for my cousin who owned the car before me. I used a factory to radio direct plugin. And the original wired were left intact.
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post #9 of 12 Old Apr 12th, 2015, 07:12 PM Thread Starter
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Well the problem finally returned. Still no ideas. Back to checking grounds
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post #10 of 12 Old Apr 13th, 2015, 08:45 AM
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Just like I posted earlier, you'll have to determine if there's a fuel delivery problem or an ignition problem. For fuel delivery, tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge at the output side of the fuel filter. Start the engine and watch the gauge for a gradual drop off in pressure while the engine is idling. The pressure should remain around 34 psi with the vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator; with the hose disconnected, around 43 psi. To test for ignition failure, you can use an in-line spark tester; these are readily available at most auto parts stores, Ebay, Amazon.

KA-T for life, yo!
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post #11 of 12 Old May 16th, 2016, 10:36 PM
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In addition to using a in-line spark tester, you should buy a scanner to check the electronic equipment has conflict with the engine or not? Better to buy a Bluetooth scanner, based on the reviews that I read on the ScanTool 426101, it seems to be good choice
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post #12 of 12 Old Dec 6th, 2016, 04:05 PM
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Did you ever resolve the issue?

I miss my twins...R.I.P. (91 and 92 SE-R)

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