Rear Upper and Lower Suspension Arms - Nissan Forum

 
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post #1 of 10 Old May 18th, 2019, 01:05 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Upper and Lower Suspension Arms

Our rear upper and lower suspension arm bushings are wore out and need replacing. I bought new arms with the bushings already in them a week ago but I am having super problems getting the bolt and nuts loose. I have tried PB Blaster, heat and even bought new impact sockets and a 1150 foot pound impact wrench. The impact nor a 4 foot cheater bar will break these bolts loose. The first one I tried busted my socket and rounded the head of the nut. I tried using new impact sockets with the new 1150 foot pound impact wrench, the socket doesn't bust but it totally rounded the head again.

It looks like the only option I have is to cut the bolt and replace with new ones. Does any one know the size, length and where I can buy some new ones, I need 8.
This is a 2003 Pathfinder LE.

Another question, is the rear suspension of a 4x4 and a regular rear wheel drive trailing arms the same. I found a set of bolts and nuts for a 4X4 but am not sure they are the same for a rear wheel drive, any one know if they are the same or not?


Last edited by jjiju1943; May 18th, 2019 at 02:34 PM.
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post #2 of 10 Old May 18th, 2019, 08:34 PM
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You are not the first person who has had to cut those bolts! Often, the bolt will rust and seize to the steel sleeve inside the rubber bushing. This will kill the affect of any impact gun! They are 12MM grade 10.9 metric bolts. 4x4parts.com sells a kit of 8 genuine Nissan trailing arm bolts with nuts:

https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18915700-...-bolt-kit.html
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post #3 of 10 Old May 18th, 2019, 08:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smj999smj View Post
You are not the first person who has had to cut those bolts! Often, the bolt will rust and seize to the steel sleeve inside the rubber bushing. This will kill the affect of any impact gun! They are 12MM grade 10.9 metric bolts. 4x4parts.com sells a kit of 8 genuine Nissan trailing arm bolts with nuts:

https://www.4x4parts.com/i-18915700-...-bolt-kit.html
Will these same bolts fit a rear wheel drive as well? If so I will order them tonight. I really do appreciate your help.

I would be surprised if they were rusted inside, there is no rust anywhere under the truck.

Edit**I went ahead and ordered the bolts anyway, I think they are the same bolts. Thank you so much.

Last edited by jjiju1943; May 18th, 2019 at 09:08 PM.
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post #4 of 10 Old May 18th, 2019, 09:02 PM
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Maybe it's from moisture that gets trapped between the sleeve and the bolt? Who knows? All I know is that some of them are as good as welded when it comes time to take them out. Coat the new bolts with never seize or similar before you install them. Yes, they will fit the rear wheel drive, as well. They will also fit WD21 Pathfinders as well as the R50's. There really wasn't much in advancement of design until 2005 when they went to the independent rear suspension (and those control arm bolts seize just the same as the older Pathfinders and often need to be cut out).
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post #5 of 10 Old May 18th, 2019, 09:22 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smj999smj View Post
Maybe it's from moisture that gets trapped between the sleeve and the bolt? Who knows? All I know is that some of them are as good as welded when it comes time to take them out. Coat the new bolts with never seize or similar before you install them. Yes, they will fit the rear wheel drive, as well. They will also fit WD21 Pathfinders as well as the R50's. There really wasn't much in advancement of design until 2005 when they went to the independent rear suspension (and those control arm bolts seize just the same as the older Pathfinders and often need to be cut out).
That is good to know, I sure hope these will come out easier but the way my luck runs they will be unreal. Thanks again SMJ, I will let you know how it goes.
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post #6 of 10 Old May 21st, 2019, 07:09 AM Thread Starter
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Another question: What is the large bar that is behind and connected to the differential and runs at an angle and connected to the frame? Will the bushings need replacing there also?

Edit** I did some searching and found the bar is a panhard rod. Looks like I will need to replace the bushings in it as well.

Last edited by jjiju1943; May 21st, 2019 at 07:36 AM.
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post #7 of 10 Old May 23rd, 2019, 09:38 AM Thread Starter
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Just a heads up on the bolts that hold the trailing arms in place, the nuts are locking nuts and like stated earlier, it will take heat to break them loose. When I got the 8 high dollar bolts for the trailing arms yesterday, I noticed the hole in the nut is not round, it is oblong, that is what locks the nut in place and it locks in place big time. Thanks again to smj999smj for putting me on to the bolts and nuts. I thought $60 was really high for the 8 bolts and nuts until I started looking around, $60 is a good price compared to the others I found.

Hopefully I can start today replacing the trailing arms. Tomorrow, Lord willing, I will replace the catalytic converters and o2 sensors. Then the next day, new front and rear brakes and have the rotors and drums turned. Then check the power valve butterfly screws. Then I will check out the front suspension and see what it needs, hopefully nothing.
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post #8 of 10 Old May 24th, 2019, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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I managed to get one side upper and lower trailing arms on today. Out of four bolts only one broke loose, three I had to cut off. I can only hope the other side comes loose easier.

All my parts came in finally, I am a little concerned about the catalytic converters, they look used. I have never seen a new one so I really don't know it they are supposed to look yellowed or not. It did have a slight amount of the honey comb stuff broken about 1/2 inch on the outside edge. Hopefully they work ok. I guess we will see hopefully soon.

Question, is there any way to make the Pathfinder ride smoother, it rides rougher than my Toyota 4X4.
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post #9 of 10 Old May 25th, 2019, 08:54 AM
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The catalytic converters will discolor somewhat over time. A common external clue of overheating to look for is a badly discolored or warped converter shell. If only a little bit of the honey comb element is broken off, they may still work OK. A good way to check their function is to perform an ECU code readout with a scan tool. If no codes are set then you're OK.

KA-T for life, yo!
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post #10 of 10 Old May 25th, 2019, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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The catalytic converters will discolor somewhat over time. A common external clue of overheating to look for is a badly discolored or warped converter shell. If only a little bit of the honey comb element is broken off, they may still work OK. A good way to check their function is to perform an ECU code readout with a scan tool. If no codes are set then you're OK.
Thanks rogoman, I appreciate that, that does make me feel a little better.
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