Battery Drain Issue - Key Switch Circuit worst culprit! - Nissan Forum

 
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post #1 of 3 Old May 14th, 2019, 05:46 AM Thread Starter
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Battery Drain Issue - Key Switch Circuit worst culprit!

Hi All

I'm brand new to the Forum so thank you for letting me join!

I'm trying to get to the bottom of a battery drain issue on my R51 2007 2.5 dci - .62amps (or 620milliamps) when car is left switched off...which is way too high and has been draining my brand new battery in about a day and a half! It was 620 even when I completely unplugged the IPDM unit and took it out of the car!! The old battery lasted 24 hours or less!

After checking with a multimeter in amp mode...and pulling every fuse, relay and plug that I could see, I discovered that the main culprit was the Key Switch because when I removed the fuse in the glove box, the amp drain dropped by 410milliamps!

So for a few days I have been pulling that 10a fuse when the car is left standing. The other amp hungry circuits are Electronic Parts (possibly the computer and radio presets?) and strangely...Room Lamp...which is weird because all the interior lights are permanently off. Why this seems to be drawing about 60 milliamps, I have no idea!
So, can anyone think of why the Key Switch circuit would be drawing 450milliamps when the car is off and standing? A possible clue is that the keyless ignition hasn't worked since I got the car..I therefore have to insert the key to start the car. Of course, with that fuse removed...I can't even turn the key! Lol!

What else could be affecting that circuit? Where should I look?

I may end up going to the local dealer...but I'm not sure if they would know either...

Here is the double (and triple) checked breakdown of my battery drain when the car is off and left alone :-

Fuses - from glove box fuse box - (They are all marked "BAT" (battery) rather than others that are marked "IGN" (ignition) )

Room Lamp = .08 Amps (80 mA) (this seems ridiculously high for an interior lamp circuit when ignition switch is off!)

Electronic Backup = .01 Amps (10mA)

Electronic Parts = .08 Amps (80mA)

Key Sw (itch) = .41 Amps (410mA)

With all these removed there is still .04 Amps (40mA) showing

Add all these up and it makes .62 Amps (620mA)

I'm no expert...but this seems very high to me. After a couple of days my brand new fully charged battery drops to 8 volts and hasn't got the power to get any of the circuits going...and not a chance of starting.

Are there any Nissan techs out there that could shed a light on this and hopefully give some advice?

My present solution is to pull out the Key Switch fuse when car is left standing...and then pop it back in to start and drive! Lol!

Regards

Andrew


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post #2 of 3 Old May 15th, 2019, 09:32 AM
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There should not be more than a 50 milliamp draw on the system with the ignition switch in the "OFF" position. Your best bet at this point is to download a copy of the FSM for your vehicle from the https://diyservicemanuals.com/ web site. The electrical section has some very good circuit drawings to help with the diagnosis.

KA-T for life, yo!
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post #3 of 3 Old May 15th, 2019, 12:36 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for your reply. Yes, I thought that around 50 milliamps should be about right, so I am guessing that there are some grounding or shorting issues somewhere.

Thanks for the link to the service manual. I will investigate further!
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