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smj999smj

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  • Mtnski ·
    Hi
    Do you know if this issue affects the 2.5L diesel version of the Pathfinder? All the references I have seen have been to the 4L petrol.
    Quick512 ·
    Did you see my post ? I got codes U1000 P1212 and C1132 CAN COMM circuit ? How can I fix this ? Thanks so much, Bob
    R51 ·
    I was wondering if I could ask you for some advice? I don't want to be an askhole and pick your brain for some of your hard learned knowledge(and no doubt costly), but this is simply regarding tools, so I hope you won't mind.
    smj999smj ·
    The only thing I might add is that there has been a lot of weird starting issues caused by bad battery connections; loose battery cable connections seem to be common on these Pathfinders and same generation Xterras and Frontiers. Try turning the connection at the battery by hand and see if you can get it to turn. If you can, clean and tighten or replace the terminal as needed.
    smj999smj ·
    My friend had a 2005 Pathfinder in the shop that had intermittent no start issues with no stored codes and it turned out to be a faulty ECM. I do remember other Nissan models (I believe the L31 Altimas were one of them) that had ECM issues in very cold weather. Obviously, it's difficult for me to say what your problem is from where I'm at and the last thing I would want you to do is replace an ECM and still have the same problem. One thing I would be interested to see when you duplicate the problem is if the injectors are firing; this can be tested by installing a noid light into one of the fuel injector harnesses and cranking the engine. If the light flashes, that means the ECM is "firing" the injectors. I'm not sure if that would help with the diagnostics, but would be of interest. I also don't see where jumping the vehicle would cause the coils to start firing. The power transistor is built into the coil. All the ECM does is trigger the coil as to when to fire.
    thejimparker ·
    ... Sorry, here's the rest.
    I can jump the truck off of a charger set at 10 amps, or off of another running vehicle and it will start fine. Bought a nice jumper pack (350 CA). It or a non running car will not start the truck when having this cold crank but no start issue. I assume therefore, that with enough amperage, wherever the problem is, I get enough spark to get though to the coil packs and fire the engine off when jumping from the charger or running car.
    I was wondering if you have come across this issue. (BTW, I have a buddy that works at a dealership. I've had no check engine light but had him put it on his scanner (was not cold and starting fine when we checked it) but it showed nothing.
    I really appreciate any input you may have. So sorry for such a loooong post. Just wanted to give you a somewhat detailed explanation of what I've tried so far.

    Thanks again for your time,

    Jim
    thejimparker ·
    Hi smj999smj

    I have a 2007 Pathfinder that for the past 4 years has had a crank but no start issue in temps in the single digits (which we get a lot of here in Wisconsin). Every time the temp dips below around 10 degrees F or so I have a consistent cranking but no start issue.

    When the issue happens the engine cranks normally but never starts. I have an ignition issue (or at least not fuel related). I hear the pump prime and I get no spark at the coil packs when the cold crank issue occurs. During nice weather I've tried separately cold storing in the freezer, at 0 degrees, both the ECU and the IPDM overnight to mimic the issue. Sadly, the engine starts fine after doing so. When the no start occurs in cold temps, I've tried heating the ECU, IPDM, Cam Sensor (drivers side bank, the other is a little difficult to get at), and crank sensor, all separately with a hairdryer to warm them up enough to start, but still the engine doesn't start...
    smj999smj ·
    Well, if it's not leaking oil externally and you are losing oil, it much be burning it. Hopefully they sent the head out to get resurfaced before they re-assembled the engine. Another possibility would be a clogged PCV system. If the PCV system is working properly, my next test would be a cylinder leakdown test.
    Bikeridetrail ·
    I have 2002 Nissan centra just had. Head gasket replaced. Now my car is loosening oil 1 half quarts 500 miles could they. Be related never burned oil before it's been 500 miles since. Head gasket. Change could. They have done. Something wrong no blue smoke no external. Leaks. Where and what is pcv. Valve
    smj999smj ·
    A genuine Nissan radiator should have "Nissan" molded into the top tank and a Nissan/Calsonic sticker on the top of the tank, several inches away from the radiator cap. If it doesn't look like a sticker was ever on the tank and you don't see "Nissan" molded into the top tank, it is likely an aftermarket replacement. Other clues that "may" exist to an aftermarket replacement include the radiator having an aftermarket cap and/or "worm-gear" radiator hose clamps instead of the factory "spring" or "constant tension" hose clamps.
    xrayboy1 ·
    smj999smj, please ignore my previous question as I realized it was the condenser model number that I was seeing. Is the label for the oem radiator located on top like the condenser? I am currently at work for the next 16 hours and do not recall seeing a barcode or model number across the top of the radiator when I looked. Thanks again.
    smj999smj ·
    As far as what parts to purchase for either job, it's a matter of choice. You can never go wrong with genuine Nissan, but you will pay the cost. You can purchase from CourtesyParts.com to save a little money. The aftermarket timing kits seem to be of decent quality for the most part, but vary in what they contain. If you want to do all of the chains and guides, an aftermarket kit might be the best way to go. Try Rockauto.com for aftermarket parts. For front cover seals, I would stick with genuine Nissan. For the front cover sealant, I used permatex ultra grey rigid high-torque RTV silicone #82195 which costs about $20 for a tube that has plenty to do the cover; it's similar to the factory sealant and thicker than black or red RTV. It applies with a caulk gun.
    smj999smj ·
    There was a TSB on the issue. Nissan has updated upper chain tensioner "feet" and chains, along with a list of seals needed for the front cover. It's a pretty expensive job in the shop, usually starting around $1200 and going up if you take it the extra step, replacing the primary chain, tensioner, guides, water pump, thermostat, etc. Of the four I've done, I haven't seen any guide where. I would, however, add to the job: replace the primary timing chain and tensioner, water pump and thermostat. I would also check the serpentine drive belt and tensioner. I got new foam seals for the radiator from Nissan; they aren't "necessary," but they did come from the factory for a reason, so I figured I mind as well replace them, too.
    smj999smj ·
    There were issues with the VQ40DE upper timing chains on 05-08 model years. Some of the chains were stamped with worn tooling and caused sharp edges on the chain, which cut into the plastic tensioner "feet." This would create a whining noise from the front of the engine, which gets worse over time. I compare it to the noise a bad P/S pump would make, but there are YouTube vids that demonstrate the noise. If the timing chain is not noisy, there's no reason to replace it. If it "whines," however, it's time to replace them.
    smj999smj ·
    This cooler is fully capable of providing enough cooler of the transmission oil under most conditions. It does not provide the benefit of warming the fluid, like the radiator's integral cooler does, however. If you do a lot of heavy towing, or live in an area that sees extremely cold temperatures, I would not recommend the "bypass method." The other way is to replace the radiator. Aftermarket radiators are pretty cheap for these vehicles, selling for well under $100 for "made in China" Ebay radiators. Many opt for the name brand "Spectra Premium" radiator, which is also made in China, but sells for around $125+/-. The updated radiator from Nissan goes for $450 online ($550 list) and to me is not worth the price. My $92 Ebay radiator has been working fine in my 06 Pathy for 3+ years; my 08 SE had the "bypass" done, without issues.
    smj999smj ·
    Nissan also extended the warranty to 8-yrs/80000 miles on the radiator and subsequent damage, and a repair price cap of $2500 for those between 80001-90000 miles, and another price cap of $3500 for 90001-100000 miles.
    There are a couple of ways to prevent this from occurring. The cheapest way is called the "bypass method." All of the affected vehicles that were built in North America come equipped with an auxiliary trans oil cooler located in front of the A/C condenser (I'm almost positive that the 2wd models had it as well, but you may want to check to be sure). On 05-07 models, it's simply a matter of of re-routing the trans cooler hoses so that the trans oil uses only the auxiliary cooler and "bypasses" the integral cooler inside the radiator.
    smj999smj ·
    Sorry it took so long to get back to you; I've been a little busy at work.
    1) 05-10 Nissan Pathfinders/Frontiers/Xterras with automatic transmissions have had issues with the seal in the transmission oil cooler (located inside the lower tank of the radiator) failing and causing engine coolant & automatic transmission fluid cross-contamination, which often causes a strawberry milkshake looking mess inside the transmission and ruins the trans. 05-07 models are particularly prone. Original radiators will have a sticker on the top tank with the part #'s 21460-EA215 or 21460-EA265. These were later replaced by 21460-9CA2E, but some of these have also had the coolers fail. It seems somewhere in that part #'s range, Calsonic, who is owned by and makes the radiators for Nissan, corrected the issue.
    genny75 ·
    2nd ?...

    2. Timing chain. About 5 years ago the dealership said i needed to replace timing chain guides. I am guessing they said this based on milage and that they didn't actually take all the time it would take to open it up and visually see that they needed replaced! This is another item that I am paranoid about and figure since we will be in there doing this radiator thing, we should grab this too. Especially since my miles are so high now. So again, same question...what should I buy? Just the guides and the chains? the whole kit? Where is best place to buy?
    genny75 ·
    Hoping you can help on 2 ?'s ... oops, it said my typing has too many characters. I will post 2nd ? separately :)

    trans/radia. 05 Frontier 4X2 CC Se. 146K mi. Always kept up on the maintenance, until about 75K, then I only did oil changes. Never major problems. Last 3 oil changes, dealership buggin' me about doing 120K service...for $900! Looked it up & decided the husband & I can do ourselves. In research I can across this tranny problem that people are having & now i am SUPER paranoid it will happen. Want to do something now to prevent it. I see after reading all over internet that I need to replace radiator & then put a trans cooler on the outside. bypass the radiator somehow. At this point my brain is overwhelmed with information,since I am not an actual mechanic. (note: I know I can do it, I am mechanically inclined & super interested in doing this myself!). just need some specific advice on how to do it & where to buy the CORRECT parts, & which specify parts to buy.
    smj999smj ·
    By your symptoms, it sounds like a bad distributor. When it stalls and won't start, check for lack of spark to the plugs. If there's no spark, I would replace the distributor assy., preferably a quality unit like a genuine Nissan or Hitachi. Since you are leaking oil past the shaft seal into the distributor, you really need a new distributor, anyway.
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