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post #1 of 5 Old Mar 24th, 2017, 09:09 AM Thread Starter
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Check engine light

I have a Nissan 200sx ser with 230,000 Miles and my check engine light kicked on this morning. I went to autozone to pull the codes and this is what I got... P0325, P0402, P0136. I just replaced the knock sensor maybe a month ago after i got engine code P 0325, so i know what that one is. Last time my mechanic checked out the car after replacing the knock sensor he said the engine had some rattle to it and it could flip the knock sensor off again. While I'm out driving I don't notice any excessive vibration or loss of power like I did when the knock sensor was actually bad. I also don't hear or smell anything strange inside or outside the car so I'm not really sure what to do with these codes. What would you guys recommend i do to fix these issues because I'm drawing a blank on what could be the cause of this now.

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post #2 of 5 Old Mar 27th, 2017, 12:11 AM
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P0402 EGR valve, P0136 O2 sensor bank 1 low voltage which can either be an exhaust leak before it or a wiring/sensor problem. If your engine is actually knocking fill er up with some premium and see if it stops.
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post #3 of 5 Old Mar 27th, 2017, 12:51 AM Thread Starter
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engine light

Filled it with the good stuff today and still nothing. Any idea how to fix this issue or do I need to take it into a shop and have em rip me off as usual? As I said before the knock sensor was just replaced so it shouldn't be that. I don't notice a loss in power really and its still shifting fine and without too much lag for a automatic. If it ends up being something sensor related any idea how much that could run me for the part and how to throw it in. This engine light is getting kinda old already.
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post #4 of 5 Old Mar 27th, 2017, 01:03 AM
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Originally Posted by aaron4591 View Post
Filled it with the good stuff today and still nothing. Any idea how to fix this issue or do I need to take it into a shop and have em rip me off as usual? As I said before the knock sensor was just replaced so it shouldn't be that. I don't notice a loss in power really and its still shifting fine and without too much lag for a automatic. If it ends up being something sensor related any idea how much that could run me for the part and how to throw it in. This engine light is getting kinda old already.
Okay so your car isn't knocking.

Shops aren't always out to get you, you know how many people badmouth shops? They can't afford to be shit like that.Anyway, the knock sensor was replaced so what happened when that was done? Did the MIL go out? If not, what were those codes? If the knock sensor code was still there you likely have a fault in the wiring (never fun to diagnose, I don't have access to alldata or mitchell at home and am not familiar enough with the wiring on your vehicle to tell you for sure step by step to test it. I can update you this week sometime with that if I remember to.) or the new knock sensor was faulty to begin with, which I doubt. The sensors are cheap ~30-40 it's the work you have to do to change em that costs you.. you'll need a swivel, long ass extension, tiny hands and some patience.

As for the egr valve, smj999smj would probably have some better advice than I would for you for that.

Last edited by Necronomicon; Mar 27th, 2017 at 01:07 AM.
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post #5 of 5 Old Mar 27th, 2017, 01:16 AM Thread Starter
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These are the codes that I got at autozone P0325, P0402, P0136. When I replaced the Knock sensor it was more then a pain to get to it under the car. I could of pulled the whole intake but I don't know enough about my car to go about playing with it that much. The wire itself looked alright wasn't too worn or rusty and everything was seated right and after the light kicked on I took it home and got under it and the sensor was still attached and the wiring was seated right on both ends. As far as the o2 sensor goes it visually looks fine and is seated right. the jab at the auto shops is mostly because of the knock sensor issue I had. they wanted about $400 to replace/install the part when i could buy it for $120 and install it myself. After spending 3 hours under the car with an extention wrench and boiling rage I kinda understood why they wanted so much to do it. If it is the wire then its not something visually noticeable and if its the o2 sensor then its the part itself. The engine itself sounds fine and when the hood is popped it looks fine i haven't seen any loose belts.
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