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General 240SX/Silvia/S12 200SX For general 240SX/Silvia/S12 200SX discussion

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post #16 of 24 Old Jun 1st, 2007, 12:53 AM Thread Starter
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It was alot easier then I thought. just gotta haver the confidence to do it.



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post #17 of 24 Old Jun 5th, 2007, 01:06 PM Thread Starter
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Day 12
June 5, 2007

Not too many updates, I’ve been working on paperwork and getting stuff handled with my boss, and getting the clip out of the shop. I started working on the DCC wiring harness some more however soon realized that without seeing this thing in the car I couldn’t really tidy it up much more.

I did however manage to add some shrink wrap to a few leads.

Finally today I got the oil filter that fits my oil block.

P.S. HKS Hi-power comes tomorrow.


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post #18 of 24 Old Jun 13th, 2007, 07:55 PM Thread Starter
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Day 13
June 13, 2007

Well its been a while since I last updated, I was waiting on some parts. Got the HKS Hi-Power exhaust in a while ago. Man, this thing is HUGE! It looks like diesel truck exhaust, and that shiny muffler is going to be police bait for sure, so I ordered a muffler silencer to put in it.

Also, today the Greddy oil pan came in, dang this thing is beefy! Here are the two trap doors, they are different sizes because on side of the oil pan is higher then the other, because the SR engine sits in the engine bay at an angle. These trap doors help to keep the oil from sloshing around and keep it in the center, around the all important pickup.

Since the pan came unassembled the first thing I had to was secure the trap doors to the pan. I used this locktite, it says its oil tolerant, probably overkill since there is also lock washers, but i don’t want those little screws coming loose.

I tightened them down good and snug with a phillips screw driver, I dont know if they had torque values, I cant read Japanese.

Next, I used some liquid teflon tape to seal up the plug for the oil temperature sensor hole since I don’t have one yet.

Then I threaded it in until it was about flush with the outside of the oil pan.

Next, I finally cracked open the tube of OEM liquid gasket that came with the gasket kit from Nissan.

And added a ring to the oil pan, making sure it was thick enough all the way around.

Then I let it sit for about two and a half minutes and then put it on the engine.

Then, I flipped the engine over and admired how beefy that honkin’ oil pan looks, and incase anyone didn’t know what motor this is, it says SR20 on the front.

Next, I added some anti-seize to the o2 sensor and torqued it down with one of our fancy o2 sensor sockets.

Next I had to do what’s been breaking my heart for a while now, re-bleed the lifters. I did them once, but because I flipped the motor over to put on the oil pan and some other things, they had to be re-bled, good thing I did too, they had a lot of air in them. So to do it, I first loosed the cam caps, then took the rockers off the lifters.

The I picked it up with my fingers and wiggled it out of the little hole and dropped it into a dixie cup filled with motor oil, then stuck a 1/16th inch welding rod and bled the little buggers of air.

By taking out the timing chain tensioner and turning the cams a little bit back and forth I finally got them all out, re-bled and put back in, without losing a single shim. Then I tightened all of the cam caps back up to spec, I better not forget and flip this motor over again.


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post #19 of 24 Old Jun 27th, 2007, 01:06 AM
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very awesome job on the engine and the pics and the explaintion! i hope that i never have to do that to my motor until it's an actual Project Car and not my mode of transpotation
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post #20 of 24 Old Jun 27th, 2007, 10:38 AM Thread Starter
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Well luckily my KA in my car is holding out... for now.


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post #21 of 24 Old Jul 12th, 2007, 02:59 PM Thread Starter
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Day 14
July 10, 2007
Blown suspension stinks. I’ve been riding on blown KYB AGX’s and Eibach Sportlines for far too long. But today I changed all of that, and got a set of Stance GR+ Pro’s. But first since I have S14 knuckles and drilled out the mounting bolts in my AGX’s to fit S14 bolts and I dont want to drill the Stances out, I made bushings.
I started out with some thick wall steel rod.

Then machined it down some to get a nice smooth surface.

Then I drilled it out.

The made more passes until it was down to the correct outer diameter, cut it out and made three more.

Next I took of my 17x10 rear wheels to see the ugly sight I was expecting.

Eew, blown shocks with all of the fluid on the outside. So, out those had to go, and in go the Stances.

Jeez, these things are beefy.
Next the fronts went on, with my little spacers fitting oh so perfectly.

I didn’t know if this was the right way to do this, I didn’t read the manual, so I set my camber plates as far positive as they would go, that way if I set my wheel camber to zero, I would have that whole angle of adjustment to go negative. Seems like it made sense to me, since I will never use positive camber.

Next we got out the scale pads, which aren’t really supposed to go on the floor, but I was to lazy to get the set up pad.

The wheels had to come off and on a few times to adjust the ride hight, camber and corner weights. And finally I got it close enough for now, since it was getting close to midnight.

So I got out the torque wrench and started torquing things back down. You can tell here how hard I had been working.

The next day I tweaked the right heights a little more and decided it was time to pull the fenders off and relocate the front harnesses that will get rubbed through on a lowered car.

First I took off the fender.

Then took all the thick wire loom off the harness and rewrapped it with electrical tape. pounded part of the seam flat to get the harness above it, and the rest of it at a right angle to hold the harness up. Then I cut out a section of the wire loom and put it around the harness where it crosses the seam.

Next I strategically stuck on some ziptie holders.

And finally I ziptied it on.

The fenders were a huge pain to put back on, exacerbated by the fact I didn’t take the front bumper off. But all in all, it wasn’t too bad and the peace of mind is worth it all.


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post #22 of 24 Old Aug 18th, 2007, 02:52 AM
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bad asss that is rediculously awsome
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post #23 of 24 Old Sep 16th, 2007, 01:37 PM
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Awsome build man. Are their any plans to upgrading the rest of the suspension to full competition spec, or keep it simple for DD use?

1991 RMS13-- DD; Slushbox, bad paint, and dents
1992 CS13-- Getting overhauled for WMD status.
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post #24 of 24 Old Dec 5th, 2008, 04:21 PM
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Great! Keep up the good work

Great Vacations. Actually, FREE VACATIONS FOR LIFE!. Cruises, Condos, Hotels, Flights... just a single membership and the you are done.
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For JDM there is no better place. I know it! It is this
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