making 1996 sentra run after years - Page 13 - Nissan Forum
B14 95-99 chassis 1995-1999 Sentra and 1995-1998 200SX

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post #181 of 196 Old Jan 29th, 2017, 10:13 PM
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Originally Posted by carguy101 View Post
flow bench tester? theres a shop here that cleans fuel injectors, perhaps they have one of those?

I used the stock BKR5E spark plug as specified in the user manual.
ill get back to you on the compression
as for the fuel pressure... the fuel pump im using isnt really for the sentra, but that wont affect fuel pressure right?
[Intake system vacuum leak] smoke tested and no leaks.
PCV fits snug to the valve cover and hose is clamped down properly...

Ill take it to the fuel injector cleaner once i got the engine mounts all sorted out...
Irregardless of what fuel pump you're using, the pressures need to be as follows:
Tee-in a temporary fuel pressure gauge at the output side of the fuel filter. The readings at idle should be approximately as follows:
- with vacuum hose connected to the fuel pressure regulator: 34 psi
- with vacuum hose disconnected from the fuel pressure regulator: 43 psi

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Smoke testing for vacuum leaks is not very accurate. Use a vacuum gauge for good accuracy; most auto parts stores sell vacuum gauges. To check the intake system for a vacuum leak, attach a vacuum gauge to a full vacuum source, usually somewhere on the intake manifold. With the engine fully warmed up, the reading at idle should be 18 - 20 InHg. At 3,000 RPM, it should be around 21 InHg.

If readings are under 18 InHg, check the intake manifold nuts to make sure they are tight. The gasket may have failed; spray a water mist at the gasket to see if the gauge reading changes. Also check the intake plenum bellows at the throttle body and at the MAF for cracks or loose clamps.
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The vacuum gauge makes for a very good diagnostic tool. Here are some vacuum gauge readings and their indications:

Low & steady: Late ign timing/valve timing, low compression

Very low: Vacuum leak

High & steady: Early ignition timing

Gradual drop in reading from idle to higher RPMs: Excessive back pressure in exhaust system

Intermittent fluctuation at idle: Ignition miss, sticking valve

Needle fluctuates as engine speed increases: Ignition miss, blown head gasket, leaking valve or weak valve spring

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The easiest test for converter plugging is done with a vacuum gauge. Connect the gauge to a source of intake vacuum on the intake manifold, carburetor or throttle body. Note the reading at idle, then raise and hold engine speed at 2,500. The needle will drop when you first open the throttle, but should then rise and stabilize. If the vacuum reading starts to drop, pressure may be backing up in the exhaust system.

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Follow Car Guy's advice about the PCV valve itself.


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Last edited by rogoman; Jan 29th, 2017 at 10:17 PM.
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post #182 of 196 Old Jan 30th, 2017, 07:05 PM
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Oh, and I forgot the rubber seal at the striking rod. That is too close for comfort to the diff case breakage.

Good info Rogo, as usual.
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post #183 of 196 Old Jan 31st, 2017, 06:15 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: I tried to bolt on the rear engine mount bracket to the transmission and it still seems to bolt down fine. so i might not have to replace the tranny anymore (and no need for the "build-up" thingy for the crack, but still needs rethread for the transmission mount)
@rogoman , thanks for the info. im currently looking for an automotive test kit (compression test, vacuum gauge, etc.) as its hard borrowing from friends... but anyway, @Car guy , i already cleaned the pcv valve with some carb cleaner before...

BTW, im suspecting that that the brake booster is leaking. but will double check once i install the transmission...
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post #184 of 196 Old Jan 31st, 2017, 08:52 AM
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but still needs rethread for the transmission mount
You can re-thread the tranny mount yourself by using a Helicoil kit. All you need to do is determine the hole diameter and the thread pitch which is measured in metric. You can buy Helicoil kits in most auto parts stores. Check out the Amazon web site:




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post #185 of 196 Old Jan 31st, 2017, 06:15 PM
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The Original Thread Checker ? Metric | S&W Manufacturing

Has been a great asset over the years.
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post #186 of 196 Old Jan 31st, 2017, 08:53 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks guys. Ive used them before, and are quite cheap here!
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post #187 of 196 Old Feb 2nd, 2017, 10:13 PM Thread Starter
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Called Nissan and asked if they have in stock the rear mount bracket part number 11332-1m200 and as usual, only available for pre-order... so im looking for a used one right now.

Just out of curiosity, I opened the transmission case. Now I have a quick question (I think this is grounds for starting a new thread but I dont want to clutter this forum too much), when I move the striking rod to the 5th/reverse position (to the right) there is spring tension, but when I move to the 1st/2nd position (left) there is none. Is that normal? no parts missing inside?
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post #188 of 196 Old Feb 13th, 2017, 06:11 AM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: I was able to rethread and reinstall the transmission!

here is a picture of the threads:

and i had the flywheel resurfaced too:


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post #189 of 196 Old Feb 13th, 2017, 12:16 PM
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Fantastic! Great stuff. Congrats!
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post #190 of 196 Old Feb 26th, 2017, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Just a quick update:

After doing some tests, I found out that injector number 2 sometimes leaks and is sometimes stuck closed (causing the engine to run on 3 cylinders). But usually it just leaks.

Started the test with a fuel pressure gauge connected where the fuel filter should be, ignition on engine off... at first pressure would stay steady at 30 psi but after numerous ignition on/off cycles and engine on/off cycles I was able to simulate the problem twice...

I replaced injector number 2 but still seems to be running rich, so I brought the car to the mechanic and told me that the car was misfiring at idle and the injectors are clogged, I believe that clogged injectors would cause the car to run lean not rich...

I was told to put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank, in hopes of solving the problem I put a bottle of techron in the car... im currently hoping that it would work.

oh and rogoman, I did a vacuum test, the vacuum at idle shows 19 inches of mercury but sometimes fluctuates (goes down to about 16 then back to 19)


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post #191 of 196 Old Feb 27th, 2017, 09:35 AM
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Just a quick update:

After doing some tests, I found out that injector number 2 sometimes leaks and is sometimes stuck closed (causing the engine to run on 3 cylinders). But usually it just leaks.

Started the test with a fuel pressure gauge connected where the fuel filter should be, ignition on engine off... at first pressure would stay steady at 30 psi but after numerous ignition on/off cycles and engine on/off cycles I was able to simulate the problem twice...

I replaced injector number 2 but still seems to be running rich, so I brought the car to the mechanic and told me that the car was misfiring at idle and the injectors are clogged, I believe that clogged injectors would cause the car to run lean not rich...

I was told to put some fuel injector cleaner in the tank, in hopes of solving the problem I put a bottle of techron in the car... im currently hoping that it would work.

oh and rogoman, I did a vacuum test, the vacuum at idle shows 19 inches of mercury but sometimes fluctuates (goes down to about 16 then back to 19)

The injectors may not be necessarily clogged but instead dirty causing them to leak appreciably and produce bad spray patterns; this would account for a rich mixture and erratic idling (miss-fires); this could also account for the extreme fluctuations of vacuum. The vacuum reading should be rock-steady at any given RPM. Intermittent vacuum fluctuation at idle could also be caused by ignition miss or sticking valve(s).

Techron may help as long as the injectors aren't severely dirty. There is also a product called BG products 44K. It is however a very strong cleaner so use it sparingly. If the injectors won't cleanup, your best bet is to buy all new ones. I've had good success with new injectors from AdvanceAuto. The prices are reasonable. However DON'T BUY RE-MANS from any supplier; re-mans are not really re-manufactured, just cleaned up and maybe quick tested. A while back I tried re-mans; bad experience for the most part, some even were DOA; never again.

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post #192 of 196 Old Feb 27th, 2017, 08:35 PM Thread Starter
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another update: I took the sentra to the highway when all of a sudden the engine misfired to bad, i think it only ran on 3 cylinders again... when i stopped due to the traffic, the car was shaking so i bad. but suddenly the rpms rose to about 2k rpm, went back to idle and ran smooth again!

could this be related to the techron? or is it just the fuel injectors acting up...

idle is also a bit higher, but i cant seem to put it in timing mode anymore. weird...



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post #193 of 196 Old Feb 27th, 2017, 11:41 PM Thread Starter
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alright, it doesnt seem to be going into timing mode at all! no matter how much i try...

I tried setting idle without going into timing mode and the ecu doesnt seem to interfere...


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post #194 of 196 Old Mar 9th, 2017, 08:29 PM Thread Starter
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alright, one more update. I checked the spark plugs of 2 other sentras here and the color is about the same as my spark plugs... perhaps its normal for sentras here to run a tad richer...


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post #195 of 196 Old Mar 10th, 2017, 04:08 PM
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Did things improve as the days/miles passed after the techron? Has that tank been depleted, and new gas filled?
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