Joined: Sep 2016
Location: Saint Louis
|B11/B12/KN13 82-90 chassis B11 (1982-1985 Sentra), B12 (1986-1990 Sentra), and Pulsar|
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Located a 2 nd master mechanic and he came out today to try to fix what the 1 st master mechanic had given up on. I turned the car over and he listened to idle at various rpms for about 15 minutes. Then the car suddenly dies. He mentions fuel pump but I tell him I already replaced it. He mentions fuel filter but I tell him we cleaned it out previously (black liquid and thick white slop had poured out of it). Each time I turn over the car it is dying quicker and quicker. I get out of the car and notice a lot of white smoke coming from the tailpipe.
So watching the video...
I do not believe you have any timing chain issues,
The idle sounds good.
I would like to hear it rev up with a quick throttle opening.
IF you did have a blown head gasket, a compression test would show a variation between cylinder compression of 15+ psi.
An easy check for a blown head gasket without compression gauge on the engine (I have had two blown head gaskets on different ga16i motors):
With engine completely cold take off the radiator cap (not the reservoir cap) and start the engine. You will get coolant spraying out of the radiator as soon as you start the car if the gasket is blown between the coolant port and compression. If the coolant does not spray out in the first 10 seconds (you will see a geyser), then you don't have a blown gasket in that area (could still be blown between oil port).
I know you said you have new wires, plugs, ect, but humor me. At night when it is dark start the engine and raise the hood. Take a squirt bottle of soapy water (I use windex) and spray along the wires from the head all the way to the dist cap with the stream mode. You will hear snap-snap-snap and see the flashes if any of your wires have an issue.
Another test, hook up a fuel gauge In-Line after the fuel filter:
Start the car, and the pressure should go up to 43-47PSi very quickly.
Shut off the car, and watch the pressure, an hour later you should still have at least 40PSI.
Start the car again, and rev up the engine quickly while watching the fuel pressure, does it drop at any time you pressed the pedal, or did the pressure stay steady?
You want more tests to run?
With engine cold pop the hood and look on the passenger side of the engine above the thermostat housing for the yellow plug (your ECU coolant temp sensor).
There is a wire safety clip to remove the connector, unplug this connector and hook an ohm meter to the 2 terminals in the CTS not the harness plug. You should have about 2000 ohms at 70F, and more ohms if it is colder. Next start the engine and continue to watch the ohms. The ohms should drop below ~300 ohms when the engine is fully warm. If it is outside this range, then you have a bad CTS
Depending on how much more you want to dig, I can give you other things to check, but this should be a good start.
BTW congrats on keeping a b12 GA16i alive for so long. I still have 2 GA16's running, and I have seen just about every symptom you can with these cars over 20+ years
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