Security light flashing - Nissan Forum
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post #1 of 3 Old Nov 23rd, 2015, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10
Security light flashing

1998 Nissan Altima, 280,000 original miles. Original moter and tranny.
The battery has been drained, the security light is flashing.
I charged the battery today and (under the hood) pulled the fuze to the power windows. Light is out now.
What cause this security light to go off?
I do have a car starter, when i pulled the fuze on it the flashing security light continued.
Not sure what to do now

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post #2 of 3 Old Jul 8th, 2017, 03:58 AM Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10
I still have this problem
Good alternater, good battery, but the battery runs down
Any ideas on what to look for?

Last edited by 39andholding; Jul 8th, 2017 at 04:02 AM.
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post #3 of 3 Old Jul 8th, 2017, 10:29 AM
Sup Mod keeping the peace
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Location: NJ (Philadelphia area)
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A properly working charging system puts out about 13.2 to 15.0 volts, but this is a general spec. and the factory service manual (FSM) should be referenced for the correct charging system voltage specifications for a particular vehicle. A battery should have a static charge of 12.2-12.6 volts. If a battery is not good, the charging system may not be able to charge properly. If a vehicle is not charging properly and the battery is good, first thing to do is to turn the ignition switch key to the "ON" position and make sure the charging system warning light is operating. If the bulb is burnt out, the charging system will not charge. If the bulb is OK but still does not illuminate, the circuit must be tested. If the warning lamp does illuminate, then the next thing to check is to make sure the circuit between the battery positive post, or fusible link, to the connection in back of the alternator is good. On Nissans, this will be a thick (approx. 10 gauge) white wire to the "BAT" post on the back of the alternator. It's not uncommon for this wire to get corroded and burn up, creating resistance in the circuit. So, before assuming an alternator is bad, make sure this circuit is good and battery voltage is getting to the alternator. It's also important to make sure the alternator belt is tight and not slipping and the battery connections are clean and tight; oxidation on battery terminals/posts can cause problems like you're having. Also, it is NOT a good idea to disconnect a battery cable on a computer controlled vehicle while running to test the alternator. This is a good way to damage an ECU. When a charging system is not charging, or overcharging, a lot of "strange" things can occur. It's not uncommon to see a multiple of stored trouble codes in the ECU memory. So, whenever a car is setting a multiple of trouble codes, idling funny or stalling, or anything out of the "norm," test the charging system before you start pulling hairs!

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