I was advised to first try a set of eheim shocks, and if that does not solve the problem, it is thought they might do the job, then try other options, this car rides rather hard now, so I hate to make it uncomfortable to be street driveable. What do you think. Any knowledge about eheim shocks. By the way, I do not see Koni shocks mentioned anywhere, they used to be real popular.
Koni still does coilovers, as I recall. At any rate, what you need to do is reduce the play inherent in an IRS, by removing some of the weaker rubber subframe and suspension bushings and replacing themn with urethane. It won't necessarily make it ride harder, but it will reduce the bodies isolation, and you will hear more road noise. A somewhat harder ride is a small price to pay for better launchability, in my opinion. Gotta take the bad with good. Drag racing in particular is a sport where you cannot "have it all". Some things must be sacrificed in the name of performance.
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1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
Nitto makes a tire very close in size, maybe 1/2 inch taller, and that should not cause any problems, what other brands should I look at ?
Previously I only raced with slicks, but the cars I had could handle them, Slicks on this car, I am pretty sure, will certainly make other parts fail.
The stock clutch and pres. plate have not failed yet, but a lot of companies advertise heavy duty street and strip. Also any advice on brands.
thanks,
joerx
Haven't heard from you in a couple days, e-mail me back...
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1987 300ZX Turbo, 5 Speed, TurboXS H-34 BOV, WAI, Under Construction
Clutch, Wheels, Tint, Paint, Interior, HID
Well a 1/2" taller wouldn't be a problem as in fitment but it's going to make your speedo be about 5-7MPH slow.. Which means if your going 70 your really going 75-77MPH..
How much boost are you running? Can't be too much if your stock clutch is still holding.
Can only safely use 7lbs boost with stock pistons and connec. rods. Have seen others have connec. rods fail at 10lbs boost. I do not think I will change connecting rods and pistons-too much work, and too much down time to pull engine.
I still am asking if turbo car will show proper hp on dyno. I dont think since air does not pass thru intercooler. What do you think. Thunder racing in Baton Rouge charges $90.00 for two pulls. What do you think ?
joerx
Koni still does coilovers, as I recall. At any rate, what you need to do is reduce the play inherent in an IRS, by removing some of the weaker rubber subframe and suspension bushings and replacing themn with urethane. It won't necessarily make it ride harder, but it will reduce the bodies isolation, and you will hear more road noise. A somewhat harder ride is a small price to pay for better launchability, in my opinion. Gotta take the bad with good. Drag racing in particular is a sport where you cannot "have it all". Some things must be sacrificed in the name of performance.
Hard ride does not bother me, and I will talk to my mechanic about doing the shocks and replacing the bushings with urethane.
I cannot give up my car now, I am moving to another home in about 2 or 3 months, and is consuming all my time.
I will try to make a couple of passes if I can get to Donaldsonville or Hattiesburg track in next month or so. I will get DRs first, and have located two stock wheels real cheap with only cosmetic damage. I will get them soon as possible. Will notify every one what happens. I noticed another Z person test drove a new Z and had wheel hop as I did. I forgot who it was, but if you see his post, have him contact me or let him know the vdc must be shut off.
joerx
Can only safely use 7lbs boost with stock pistons and connec. rods. Have seen others have connec. rods fail at 10lbs boost. I do not think I will change connecting rods and pistons-too much work, and too much down time to pull engine.
I still am asking if turbo car will show proper hp on dyno. I dont think since air does not pass thru intercooler. What do you think. Thunder racing in Baton Rouge charges $90.00 for two pulls. What do you think ?
joerx
Most places with dynos have high output fans they put in front of the car.
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1987 300ZX Turbo, 5 Speed, TurboXS H-34 BOV, WAI, Under Construction
Clutch, Wheels, Tint, Paint, Interior, HID
I still am asking if turbo car will show proper hp on dyno. I dont think since air does not pass thru intercooler. What do you think. Thunder racing in Baton Rouge charges $90.00 for two pulls. What do you think ?
joerx
Your not even producing anough boost to make that much of a difference with an intercooler. You will show "proper" hp. Maybe 1 or 2 less then what you would see on the street, but it will be accurate. They will have fans infront of the car pushing air throught the intercooler. 2 pulls is not enough. You will need more like 5 or six to hit peak numbers, and 90 bucks for 2 pulls is not very good.
OMFG!!! Listen to me. If VDC is on YOU ARE NOT EXPERIENCING WHEEL HOP! You have IRS that is why you are experiencing wheel hop. With VDC on you are experiencing throttle modulation. Did you ever even read the manual that came with your car? You still have no clue what your talking about. I also highly doubt you have any experience drag racing, because you know absolutely nothing.
The manual that came with the car stinks, and gives no useful information, by the way did you ever see the manual for this car? As far as knowing nothing, get two equal cars, I will beat you 9 out of 10. If you want to throw around insults, talk to someone else, I just came here for some useful info which others were considerate enough to give without insults. I doubt if you ever drove in a real drag race.
DRs and some practice will solve 80% of my problems. I ran cars in the 10's in the years when that was good number and this toy will be in the 12s soon.
joerx
If you had read the manual you would know what VDC is and what it does. I showed this thread to several people that I know with 350Zs and that are in development of parts for your car, and they said you should read the manual also.. What do you define as a real drag race? Your car is capable of running 12s now on STREET tires. I'm sorry if I was harsh, but you don't know anything about your car, and you have modded it and even raced it. next time you go to Hattiesburg tell me and I will tell one of the guys who goes there on occassion to video tape it.
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Zpooled Zo Zya
Last edited by ♣Zen31ZR♣ : Mar 18th, 2005 at 11:45 AM.
There are a lot of people that complain about having to change brake pads and even rotors on the Z after only 10-15K miles. From what I've heard and read online, I've come to the conclusion that they are almost all like you. They drag race their car with TC/VDC on and the harder they accellerate, the harder the brakes clamp closed...
Last edited by ♣Zen31ZR♣ : Mar 18th, 2005 at 11:45 AM.
It's amazing that you've spent that much for a car, spent half of that again on modifying it; and you still don't even know how it works.
There are a lot of people that complain about having to change brake pads and even rotors on the Z after only 10-15K miles. From what I've heard and read online, I've come to the conclusion that they are almost all like you. They drag race their car with TC/VDC on and the harder they accellerate, the harder the brakes clamp closed...and the best you can come up with is the manual sucks?!?!?! You're lucky your engine hasn't crapped out on you.
Jeez!!!
Your brake rotors and pads hate you...and I don't blame them. Now I understand why they have to put "CAUTION...HOT LIQUID" on coffee cups at McDonalds.
Remember after two tries I quit, the car is not crapped out, and the computer is piggybacked with the greddy control unit which has various adjustments as far as when the boost comes in, how much boost and 3 or 4 other options.
I would not call the only two passes I made drag racing, I quit on 2nd pass.
I wish I could turn the VDC off permanently, and I may be able to. I don't blame anyone but myself. At any rate, I am going to firm up the shocks with Eheims, they were recommended buy two different mechanics. I do not see Konis advertised lately, but they also make or made excellent performance shocks.. You know I joined this forum for some technical support, but several have only sent me " you can't do that" with no further info. I stand by my statement the manual stinks. Only 1 page mentions the VDC and not very clear. This is the car manual, not a shop manual. I usually order a shop manual any time I get a new car, but did not on this one. Unfortunately my ignorance of the VDC came back and bit me. My third question, on this issue, and I have two different anwsers so far.. When VDC is off, is positraction off or on. I think it is on, but have not tried it yet.
Thanks (By the way, my brakes are still in excellent shape.)
joerx joerx@bellsouth.net
You have an LSD. Do you not have any reading comprehension? I mean seriously I told you it is still on. YOU HAVE AN LSD! You see this is why I highly doubt anything you have said. You may own a G35C that is equipped with a Greddy TT kit, but you know absolutely nothing about cars. Go read up on what a Limited Slip Differential is and then come back. If the manual didn't make it all clear enough from the beginning nothing will.
WITH VDC OFF YOUR TRACTION CONTROL SYSTEM IS OFF, the LSD still works like the mechanical device it is. You can't turn it off.
That is what I think all along, but the technician at Infiniti told me vdc off shuts off lsd, there fore I know we are correct and he is wrong. The greddy kit has a computer pack that piggybacks the main computer, allowing boost adjustment,also,can adjust when boost comes in,and several other paramaters. Calm down, I believe you, I just doubted the technician at infiniti and wanted to be sure I was correct. Last night I went on a dead end street and did a light burn, about 15 feet, and both stripes were almost the same with no wheel hop. Of course with the vdc off. I still recommend you get or borrow the manual and see how poorly it is written.
That is what I think all along, but the technician at Infiniti told me vdc off shuts off lsd, there fore I know we are correct and he is wrong. The greddy kit has a computer pack that piggybacks the main computer, allowing boost adjustment,also,can adjust when boost comes in,and several other paramaters. Calm down, I believe you, I just doubted the technician at infiniti and wanted to be sure I was correct. Last night I went on a dead end street and did a light burn, about 15 feet, and both stripes were almost the same with no wheel hop. Of course with the vdc off. I still recommend you get or borrow the manual and see how poorly it is written.
VDC is not causing the wheel hop. If VDC is on the throttle is being modulated you are NOT experiencing wheel hop.
I'm going to forego all of the negative things I want to say.
I would like to hear what you think "positraction" is, and how it relates to your G.
...anyway:
1. Traction control: This keeps the wheels from spinning by electronically modulating the throttle and the brakes.
2. VDC (or Vehicle Dynamic Control): Works mechanically similar to TC, but activates when any sideways motion or slipping of the car is detected. VDC can modulate the throttle and helps to stabilize the car by pulsing the brakes to the 4 wheels independantly.
3. "SLIP" light: This lights up on your dash when TC/VDC is on and any traction loss is detected. I don't know the specifics, but after a few seconds of traction loss (like dragging w/ boost and TC/VDC on) it will remain shining in your face until you shut the car off and restart it. This is to tell you (in the case of slippery/icy roads) that you may want to park the car or be more careful. In your case it's telling you to sell your car and buy a Civic.
4. TC/VDC: Some Z's (I don't know about the G) only have TC, others have TC and VDC. If you have VDC then you have TC; they work through the same system, and you cannot turn them on/off independantly.
My advice:
For everyday driving TC/VDC is good to have on. You never know when you'll have to make a sudden move and TC/VDC is there to keep you from spinning out of control (and it works, because I've tested it in a wet parking lot). If there's any chance that you will spin the tires (whether drag racing, autocrossing, tracking, or just being a typical ricer when you meet a V6 Mustang at red light) turn it off. All it takes is a touch on the button and it's back on again.
I'm going to forego all of the negative things I want to say.
I would like to hear what you think "positraction" is, and how it relates to your G.
...anyway:
1. Traction control: This keeps the wheels from spinning by electronically modulating the throttle and the brakes.
2. VDC (or Vehicle Dynamic Control): Works mechanically similar to TC, but activates when any sideways motion or slipping of the car is detected. VDC can modulate the throttle and helps to stabilize the car by pulsing the brakes to the 4 wheels independantly.
3. "SLIP" light: This lights up on your dash when TC/VDC is on and any traction loss is detected. I don't know the specifics, but after a few seconds of traction loss (like dragging w/ boost and TC/VDC on) it will remain shining in your face until you shut the car off and restart it. This is to tell you (in the case of slippery/icy roads) that you may want to park the car or be more careful. In your case it's telling you to sell your car and buy a Civic.
4. TC/VDC: Some Z's (I don't know about the G) only have TC, others have TC and VDC. If you have VDC then you have TC; they work through the same system, and you cannot turn them on/off independantly.
My advice:
For everyday driving TC/VDC is good to have on. You never know when you'll have to make a sudden move and TC/VDC is there to keep you from spinning out of control (and it works, because I've tested it in a wet parking lot). If there's any chance that you will spin the tires (whether drag racing, autocrossing, tracking, or just being a typical ricer when you meet a V6 Mustang at red light) turn it off. All it takes is a touch on the button and it's back on again.
GOOD ADVICE:
Since the VDC is on by default, I leave it on. And I appreciate the info you have listed. I did a test for myself on a dead end street the other night I turned the VDC off and just went about 100 feet. The wheels spun for about fifteen to 20 feet before grabbing, and no wheel hop. I did not really get into it, these tires are of no use for a launch, but another member made some recommendations, I like the Nitto brand but 1/2 inch too tall and have not decided yet. I was offered some "cosmetically" damaged wheels, which was ready to buy today, but some people don't tell the whole story. They had beed damaged beyond usage, apparently the guy hit something and one was quite out of shape. I am sure I can find something useful.
Positraction, as I define is ,and I am not an engineer, a limited slip differential. There are several types, but in general if a wheel slips, torque is transfered to the other wheel, this is simply put, and there are several ways to achieve this, most, and this is real general, provide a controlled amount of resistance to the spinning wheel, so the other wheel, which has traction gets enough power to keep the car going. If I recall, a company "Eaton" makes lsd for muscle cars and some off road vehicles. Remember I have not raced in some time, and am sure that newer cars have a lot more involvement in traction control with computer involvement. I joined this group to get some up to date info, but seems every one is ragging me because I made a run with out proper info. This is my fault. But I think with the info you and others have provided I can move forward. I just hate to learn from mistakes as I did. As I had said earlier, another car with similar setup to mine, ran in low 13s, but I do not know his exact setup. My plans are, new tires as has been recommeded, and eheim shocks, and give it a try an go from there. I am open to any useful ideas and suggestions. My last car, and that has been some time ago ran in high 10s to mid 11s, and I ran it often. I am not green to racing but just to some of the computer hangups I was not aware of.
Your comments above show you have good knowledge of the mechanics and engineering, and this is the kind of info I need.
Thanks, joerx
If you wish to email I will supply my address.
Last edited by joerx : Mar 15th, 2005 at 08:13 PM.
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