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Z33 350Z 2003+ 2003+ 350Z VQ35DE - Engine and Chassis Discussion


       
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Old Nov 18th, 2003, 11:35 PM   #1 (permalink)
Jason@performance
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Thumbs up DYNO Video / Chart = RT High Flow Cats & Nismo Exhaust

Tonight I dyno'ed my car with Random Technology High Flow Cats and Nismo Exhaust.

****** I AM GETTING A REPRINT OF THIS DYNO, IF YOU NOTICE IT IS NOT SCALED! ******

I had my dyno pull after driving for an hour to get to Powertrain Dynamics. Talked for a while with a guy from down the row of shops. Laughing about things people came in with attached to their car's to try and make power. The funniest thing was a WEED WACKER as a blower! :P

Any way to the point of this. MY DYNO!



My car was warm from driving for an hour, out side temp was similar to the previous DYNO. On the same DYNO

Car Details;

What year your Z is? = 2003 purchased April
How many miles was on her? = At time of Dyno 19800
NA, Super Charged or TT? = NA (for now)
Auto or manual? = Manual
What was the name of the place you dynoed at? = Powertrain Dynamics
What psi did you dyno at if your a Super Charge ot TT? = 1psi Weed Wacker Motor (j/k)
What gear your pull was made? = 5th and ALL PULLS for 6MT should be in 5th the only 1:1 gearing. Auto's in 4th the only 1:1 gear in auto.
What modifications were done when you made your pulls? = Baseline only NISMO EXHAUST and next mod was with the addition of only RT High Flow Cats
And of coures a picture of your dyno sheet? = See Below

Previous DYNO 11/01/03 = NISMO Cat Back Exhaust
Latest DYNO 11/18/03 = NISMO Cat Back Exhaust & Random Technology High Flow Cat's

11-01-03 = 241.4 Actual RWHP / 231.3 Actual Torque (ft-lbs)
11-17-03 = 248.0 Actual RWHP / 239.3 Actual Torque (ft-lbs)

Gain = 6.6 RWHP / 8 Torque

I am VERY pleased with the Torque gain down low and how the gain is across the full span of the powerband. I loose TQ and HP on the 6400 mark faster then with only the exhaust. I am hoping an intake of some kind will fix that.

It took me over 3 hours to drive home so I dont exactly feel like bending over my car and putting in the K&N Typhoon.

So! Soon to come, Typhoon Install (tommorow) and Dyno of the Typhoon added to this.

Below is the Pre / Post DYNO sheet and link to a video of the Dyno pull where you can really hear the exhaust in action up to 140+ MPH!

http://members.aol.com/performancenismo/dyno2.avi

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Last edited by Jason@performance : Dec 1st, 2003 at 03:37 PM.
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Old Nov 19th, 2003, 05:13 PM   #2 (permalink)
Spongerider
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Could you please post your dyno sheets here?

I would like to have dyno chart for our Z33 cars. Could you please tell us,

What year your Z is?
How many miles was on her?
NA, Super Charged or TT?
Auto or manual?
What was the name of the place you dynoed at?
What psi did you dyno at if your a Super Charge ot TT?
What gear your pull was made?
What modifications were done when you made your pulls?
And of coures a picture of your dyno sheet?

If you don't have a dyno chart please do not apply.

Thanks..

Sponge...
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Old Dec 23rd, 2003, 05:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
Trevor D
 
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Actual horsepower will be meaningless because your power will change with the weather conditions. Your gain could have been solely from less humidity, lower air temperature, higher atmospheric pressure, or any combination of both. The normal correction method is SAE. That will give you a better comparison of the power gain without having to factor in the changing weather conditions. I just thought I'd mention it.

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Old Apr 19th, 2004, 12:39 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Its also cheating to pull in a 1:1 gear. Running in 5th provides a more direct link for to the driveshaft. You reduce friction because you have eliminated two sets of teeth which are present in every other gear. Go back, do it in 4th or 3rd with SAE correction and then post again. I agree that your #'s are not correct. SAE correction is often very accurate. I recently read an article in Power Pages that gave seven ways to get a dyno to lie. These two things were second and fifth. Why is this a sticky?
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Old Sep 12th, 2004, 10:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
ZEALOUZ
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Car Details;

What year is your Z? = 2004 purchased 27DEC03
How many miles (day of dyno)? = @7000
auto or manual? = Manual
What was the name of the place you dynoed at? = Adam's Automotive
What gear was your pull made in? = 4th gear pulls (next time will be in fifth)
What modifications were done when you made your pulls? = JWT POP CHARGER WITH HEAT SHIELD, BORLA TRUE DUAL EXHAUST, KINETIX HI-FLOW CATS, UNORTHODOX RACING PULLEY SET, MAX GROUND SYSTEM CABLES

weird looking dyno, not completly sure why it looks this way. next time i will make sure to dyno in 5th. hopefully i will not have jagged lines on my dyno sheet. i hope to get higher numbers too!
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Old Nov 15th, 2004, 01:25 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZEALOUZ
Car Details;

What year is your Z? = 2004 purchased 27DEC03
How many miles (day of dyno)? = @7000
auto or manual? = Manual
What was the name of the place you dynoed at? = Adam's Automotive
What gear was your pull made in? = 4th gear pulls (next time will be in fifth)
What modifications were done when you made your pulls? = JWT POP CHARGER WITH HEAT SHIELD, BORLA TRUE DUAL EXHAUST, KINETIX HI-FLOW CATS, UNORTHODOX RACING PULLEY SET, MAX GROUND SYSTEM CABLES

weird looking dyno, not completly sure why it looks this way. next time i will make sure to dyno in 5th. hopefully i will not have jagged lines on my dyno sheet. i hope to get higher numbers too!
Isn't 4th your 1 to 1 gear?
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Old Nov 16th, 2004, 02:03 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LatinMax
Isn't 4th your 1 to 1 gear?
At least in the case of the '04 S-tune, 5th gear is the 1.00 ratio. 4th is 1.27 and 6th is .79.
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Old Jan 20th, 2005, 08:57 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by broaner22
Its also cheating to pull in a 1:1 gear. Running in 5th provides a more direct link for to the driveshaft. You reduce friction because you have eliminated two sets of teeth which are present in every other gear. Go back, do it in 4th or 3rd with SAE correction and then post again. I agree that your #'s are not correct. SAE correction is often very accurate. I recently read an article in Power Pages that gave seven ways to get a dyno to lie. These two things were second and fifth. Why is this a sticky?
What school of idiocy did you enroll in that told you that dynoing a car in the 1:1 gear is cheating. The exact point of dynoing in the 1:1 gear is there is NO UNDERDRIVE and NO OVERDRIVE happeing to fool the numbers. Is this the normal ricer mentality, or just you? Get your head out of magazines and go build cars before you keep making retarded statements of stuff you know nothing about. I had to register on this forum just to tell you how much of an idiot you are from that remark. Good lord benchtop book racers kill me.
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Old Jan 20th, 2005, 11:17 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Touring0350z
What school of idiocy did you enroll in that told you that dynoing a car in the 1:1 gear is cheating. The exact point of dynoing in the 1:1 gear is there is NO UNDERDRIVE and NO OVERDRIVE happeing to fool the numbers. Is this the normal ricer mentality, or just you? Get your head out of magazines and go build cars before you keep making retarded statements of stuff you know nothing about. I had to register on this forum just to tell you how much of an idiot you are from that remark. Good lord benchtop book racers kill me.
I agree, put not in the harsh words you used. The guy you were talking to most likely was told the wrong info.
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Old Aug 2nd, 2006, 05:57 PM   #10 (permalink)
skyydiver
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see below link for the transmission and diff. #'s. The cars should be dynoed in 5th gear due to the 1:1 ratio so that there is no false multiplication of HP/TQ due to gearing. 5th simulates as much as possible as actually dynoing the motor by itself (of course you are still loosing approximately 10-15% through the drivetrain). Automatics should be done in 4th gear...

http://www.350z-tech.com/zwiki/Drivetrain

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Old Aug 2nd, 2006, 06:03 PM   #11 (permalink)
skyydiver
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btw...here is another thread with great food for thought....

http://www.mazda6tech.com/index.php?...id=9&Itemid=49

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Old Aug 2nd, 2006, 06:05 PM   #12 (permalink)
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sorry...but another one that addresses the issue...

http://www.team-integra.net/sections...?ArticleID=707

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Old Aug 20th, 2006, 12:59 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Touring0350z
What school of idiocy did you enroll in that told you that dynoing a car in the 1:1 gear is cheating. The exact point of dynoing in the 1:1 gear is there is NO UNDERDRIVE and NO OVERDRIVE happeing to fool the numbers. Is this the normal ricer mentality, or just you? Get your head out of magazines and go build cars before you keep making retarded statements of stuff you know nothing about. I had to register on this forum just to tell you how much of an idiot you are from that remark. Good lord benchtop book racers kill me.
I registered to this forum just to call you a, DICK!!!
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Old Sep 14th, 2006, 08:23 AM   #14 (permalink)
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arn't these cars rated like 280 somthing factory to like 300 why are you guys getting so low of dyno readings is what i want to know?
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Old Sep 14th, 2006, 01:40 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Vega: arn't these cars rated like 280 somthing factory to like 300 why are you guys getting so low of dyno readings is what i want to know?
I think that is to the crank... and Car manufactors always lie abot the amout of power a car makes and almost alway qoute crake power.
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