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Z32 Chassis 300ZX 1990-1996 300ZX Z32 Chassis Discussion


       
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Old Mar 25th, 2008, 06:33 PM   #1 (permalink)
ralttz
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idling problems

so now that ive finally gotten rid of my bogging problems the car doesnt want to idle right...when idling the RPMs waver back and forth sometimes between 500 and 1500..occasionally it even cuts out..my first thought was the throttle position sensor...any other ideas???
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Old Mar 26th, 2008, 07:06 PM   #2 (permalink)
Blanco 300Z
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on the upper radiator hose where it connects to the engine there is a metal pipe with 2 sensor on it. one sensor has 1 wire the other has 2 wires. unplug the sensor with the 2 wires and clean the plug really really well. then clean the sensor on that coolant pipe.

I have woned 2 Z32s and that has solved the same problem on both for me. if that doesnt work there may ba a vacume line off also.

is the check engine light on??
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Old Mar 26th, 2008, 07:44 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Sounds like the MAS is not connected.
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Old Mar 27th, 2008, 07:11 PM   #4 (permalink)
ralttz
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i checked and cleaned both and didnt have much success..the one with one wire seemed a little corroded inside and i cleaned it the best i could..i dunno if yours is the same but its just a small slot that connects to a tiny piece of metal...the thing its connected to is pretty loose where its sitting as well so im not sure if thats normal. what are those sensors anyway? and no the check engine light isnt on either, but i should probly check my codes again. and as far as the MAS i think thats about the only thing in the air/fuel system i havent replaced yet. are those symptoms common to a bad mass air flow sensor and if so would it give me a code? i have been looking for bad vacume lines as well and i have a few that need new hose clamps on them but i havent found anything completely off so far.
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Old Mar 28th, 2008, 10:53 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Before buying a MAS you should ask to borrow a good know one since they are expensive. Check and make sure your injectors are firing. Do you know how to do that?
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Old Mar 28th, 2008, 07:22 PM   #6 (permalink)
ralttz
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no not really...i think i know someobody i can borrow a MAS from though so i might be able to do that this weekend. If it was bad wouldnt i get a code 12 though?
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Old Apr 1st, 2008, 11:40 AM   #7 (permalink)
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Not necessary but in general, yes.
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Old Apr 1st, 2008, 11:23 PM   #8 (permalink)
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i came across and tryed this becuase i am having the same problem, i havnt driven the car yet but how do u clean the one with 2 wires the connectors on one end are so hard to get at in that little sensor box and the other ends are up in the harness. Mine happens when i am braking with the car in neutral. Does anyone know if this will affect the cars fuel economy drastically or not?

Last edited by d_flore : Apr 2nd, 2008 at 12:10 AM.
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Old Apr 2nd, 2008, 04:31 PM   #9 (permalink)
d_flore
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralttz View Post
i checked and cleaned both and didnt have much success..the one with one wire seemed a little corroded inside and i cleaned it the best i could..i dunno if yours is the same but its just a small slot that connects to a tiny piece of metal...the thing its connected to is pretty loose where its sitting as well so im not sure if thats normal. what are those sensors anyway? and no the check engine light isnt on either, but i should probly check my codes again. and as far as the MAS i think thats about the only thing in the air/fuel system i havent replaced yet. are those symptoms common to a bad mass air flow sensor and if so would it give me a code? i have been looking for bad vacume lines as well and i have a few that need new hose clamps on them but i havent found anything completely off so far.

i know the sensor with a single wire tells ure dash ure temp becuase i tryed this and reconected it but connected it wrong and my car never "warmed up" so i thought. the car was warm and running fine but it just didnt read on my dash. it also nearly flooded when i restarted it after re connecting it
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Old Apr 3rd, 2008, 09:42 AM   #10 (permalink)
thor2004
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How do you check to see if injectors are firing. If you have had the plenum off, check the back passenager side, underneath, for a vacuum line. It comes off of the EGR valve. Extremely hard to see and get to. I had to use a mirror to see it. When mine came off, the engine ran ruff, idled all over, and horrible MPG. Don't know if that helps any. If MAS is bad you shouldn't be able to rev engine over like 2,000-2,500 RPM's.
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Old Apr 3rd, 2008, 05:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Use a OHM reader to see if your injectors are working. Without power to the injector put the probes to the 2 tabs on the injector. It should read (12ohm~14ohm) If not then they are bad.
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Old Apr 7th, 2008, 06:17 PM   #12 (permalink)
ralttz
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disassembled and cleaned IAA. it was very dirty and it seems to have helped quite a bit but still not 100%. still gotta check those injectors and try a couple other things if it ever stops raining here...ill let yall know if theres any further success
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Old Apr 7th, 2008, 06:49 PM   #13 (permalink)
d_flore
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any tips on cleaning that two prong sensor its so tight and small and hard to get at with a wire brush.
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Old Apr 7th, 2008, 07:19 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Wd-40 and small files work well.
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Old Apr 8th, 2008, 05:52 PM   #15 (permalink)
d_flore
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all clean but I am still having problems when I am moving and in neutral. then rpms will drop come back up drop and somtimes drop so far that it stals out. braking seems to make it worse
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