Sound like a vacuum leak. Have a friend sit in your car a rev it while you put a ear to the engine and listen for a hissing noise. That well be your vacuum leak.
hmm i think i do. any idea how much that would cost to fix or is it even worth it if i will be swapping the engine in a few months. does it kill fuel economy?
Someone help me here, but isn't it true that if you spray something like WD-40(or something else) around and listen for the engine to rev up? To help get you close to leak area.
yes thor that is a good way to find vacuume leaks. However i would suggest using something like starting fluid so it will evaporate and not leave a residue everywhere. Ceaning my IAA helped when i first start the car but once it gets warmed up it just starts doin it again. Lookin for vacuume leaks is next on my things to do, but im STILL waiting on the rain to stop. This website has some good stuff on curing idle problems. Im kinda working my way down the list.
this one addresses idle issues and many other things as well..kinda a "technical library" i guess their calling it...i think last website possibly got its idle info from here
Someone help me here, but isn't it true that if you spray something like WD-40(or something else) around and listen for the engine to rev up? To help get you close to leak area.
This is what I use to find leaks and the 2" rubber caps can be found at Home Depot. You drill a hole in one of the two rubber caps and remove your MAS Tee. Next stick a compress air in for 5 seconds if you don't have a pressure gauge. This set up without a boost gauge and hose can be had for less then $5.00.
it was the TPS. Opened it up and it wasnt even close to making contact with the point for the idle. Did a little bending to get it in position and it now runs great again. Here is a decent video on youtube that showed me how to make adjustments inside the TPS. Saved me from havin to buy a new one. YouTube - Episode 28: Nissan 300zx: TPS Overview Just gotta fast forward past the guitar part.
it was the TPS. Opened it up and it wasnt even close to making contact with the point for the idle. Did a little bending to get it in position and it now runs great again. Here is a decent video on youtube that showed me how to make adjustments inside the TPS. Saved me from havin to buy a new one. YouTube - Episode 28: Nissan 300zx: TPS Overview Just gotta fast forward past the guitar part.
Actually he did not set the idle correctly all he did was show you how it looks inside the TPS. To correctly set the idle you need to disconnect the TPS harness and loosen the screws(2) holding the TPS. At full throttle the tps should be 4.~4.02 volts if it's not adjust the TPS back or forth till the target number is matched. After it's set screw the TPS down and reconnect the harness and start the car up. Once the Z is warmed up your rpms should be 800-850 rpm. If not disconnect the TPS harness and with a long Phillips screw driver adjust the AII valve. Clock wise to increase rpms and counter to lessen the rpms. Once the target rpm is hit then reconnect the TPS harness and you're finished.
i didnt say he showed how to set the idle just how to fix/make adjustments to the TPS. My TPS wasnt making contact with the idle point even when turned fully clockwise so i had to make some adjustments inside which was what he did show how to do. But thanks for the further info i will check the voltage because i am still having some minor problems with it occasionally. It seems that when i do try and turn the idle down with the IAA or when i drive for a long time the problem seems to come back slightly. Im currently idling at about 900-1000 and most of the time it does pretty good but id like to get it back down where its supposed to be.
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