I have a '90 TT and it hits a bog around 4k. Also when it has been driven for a while and then shut off, if i go to start it again before it has had a few hours to cool it bogs very bad for the first few miles however it does not do it normally. Unfortunately the idiot who owned the car before liked to fix electrical problems with RTV which i also found around one of the connectors to one of the coils. Could a bad connection to the coil make it fail at higher RPMs? Any other ideas???
I have a '90 TT and it hits a bog around 4k. Also when it has been driven for a while and then shut off, if i go to start it again before it has had a few hours to cool it bogs very bad for the first few miles however it does not do it normally. Unfortunately the idiot who owned the car before liked to fix electrical problems with RTV which i also found around one of the connectors to one of the coils. Could a bad connection to the coil make it fail at higher RPMs? Any other ideas???
Read this link and do what it say's? Once you get a result report back, ok?
so i got a couple codes out. numbers 21 and 34. and the link says that they mean "ignition signal circuit" and "detonation sensor circuit". Im not really sure what that means. Thanks so much for that link by the way i have been tryin to find that info for a while.
so i got a couple codes out. numbers 21 and 34. and the link says that they mean "ignition signal circuit" and "detonation sensor circuit". Im not really sure what that means. Thanks so much for that link by the way i have been tryin to find that info for a while.
Code 21
Clean your "Power Transistor Unit". Also there was a Nissan recall on the ptu.
I checked out the PTU and all seemed fine. However it was a problem before and i fixed it not knowing what it was at the time. (the car barely ran then and I saw a mess of corrosion and RTV and figured it couldn't be good) I'm wondering if the code could still be there from before or if the unit itself could be bad? Does the computer clear itself whenever the battery is disconnected or is there another way to clear it? Gotta get a couple things to test the detonation sensor still, but i am only getting about 7lbs of boost like it says in the link. Could that sensor alone cause the bogging?
I checked out the PTU and all seemed fine. However it was a problem before and i fixed it not knowing what it was at the time. (the car barely ran then and I saw a mess of corrosion and RTV and figured it couldn't be good) I'm wondering if the code could still be there from before or if the unit itself could be bad? Does the computer clear itself whenever the battery is disconnected or is there another way to clear it? Gotta get a couple things to test the detonation sensor still, but i am only getting about 7lbs of boost like it says in the link. Could that sensor alone cause the bogging?
No, each time you disconnect the battery you reset the codes. The detonation sensor affects the boost but the PTU is your bogging problem.
i replaced the PTU and it did take care of the code in the computer and seems to be running slightly better however the bog is still there...the car seems to be drowning itself when it bogs and i can sometimes smell gas..could it be the fuel regulators?
Did your reset you codes before you go a error? Have you done anything to your car before the problem existed? I would go over the PTU and make the you have a clean connection.
after i replaced the PTU i reset the codes. im still getting the code for a bad detonation sensor but the code 21 is no longer there. i did check the connections and they seemed fine but i cleaned them up a little bit anyway. ive had the same problem since i bought the car. i didnt do any upgrades since i bought it just fix a few problems including rebuilding turbos (it was smoking horribly), replace the O2 sensors, and put in a new clutch and flywheel. But i did have the bogging problem even before any of that.
after i replaced the PTU i reset the codes. im still getting the code for a bad detonation sensor but the code 21 is no longer there. i did check the connections and they seemed fine but i cleaned them up a little bit anyway. ive had the same problem since i bought the car. i didnt do any upgrades since i bought it just fix a few problems including rebuilding turbos (it was smoking horribly), replace the O2 sensors, and put in a new clutch and flywheel. But i did have the bogging problem even before any of that.
You most likely need to by-pass your detonation sensor till your able to open up your engine. So have you done the following since you had your car?
i have done spark plugs and fuel filter...the fuel regulator and dampener was the next step i just havent got to it yet. i was a little reluctant to bypass the detonation sensor cuz i read that its possible that it could screw up the motor. what exactly does the detonation sensor do?
The D.S. is use to lower the boost from 9.5psi to 7 psi when detonation occur, it's a safety switch for the ill informed. If you are a aware drive you'll know when your detonating because you'll hear knocking coming from the engine. Here are some rules that I drive with.
-Never boost hard on a hot day.
-When pushing the car turn off the radio and be aware of knocking/rattling from the engine.
-Always keep up with the maintaince of your car.
I speak from experiance because I've had my 92 300zxTT new from the lot and it's still making over 400 rwhp with stock turbos and engine. (130K miles)
aight cool..well thanks again. i will be replacing the fuel dampener and regulator in the next few days in hopes that i can finally get rid of this irritating bog ill let you know if its a success. Also i can hear my fuel pump running more often than not and im wondering if the previous owner installed a high performance one and if that could be causing some problems. Are you supposed to be able to hear the stock fuel pump?
I doubt he added a high performance one because the Z's ecu controls the 3 stage fuel pump on the TT and a 2 stage on a NA. Yes the z32 fuel pump will make noise at start up and when your at WOT.
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