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Z32 Chassis 300ZX 1990-1996 300ZX Z32 Chassis Discussion

       
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Old Apr 21st, 2007, 03:45 PM   #1 (permalink)
ExileinOblivion
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clutch problem

hey boys i need a little advice. i bought a 89 fairlady from japan a few months ago (dec). anyway i only drove it for 12 hours to bring it back home and it was running perfectly, so i went to bring it out of hibernation yesterday and it was still working great. i let it warm up and i gently rocked it out of its resting place because their was a little ice build up. i rode the clutch and gave it a little gas at a time while 3 people helped push, i got it out of its spot and drove it a little up the incline it was on and now i cant get it into gear. when its not on i can shift freely but when i turn it on in gear it stalls and when its not in gear the clutch wont slip into first or any gear for that matter. i know its my clutch,but it didnt burn out and it was fine before i parked it for the winter. ive been told its an airlock from sitting for so long. how do i bleed the line properly to get the air out? i searched through here a bit but everyones got 100 different ways to do it... or is this even the problem? hit me back with some info thanks.
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Old May 4th, 2007, 05:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
apudapus
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search on google on how to bleed a clutch line.

basically you open up the bleeder on the slave cylinder, press in the pedal, close the line, remove the pedal.

you do this until there is a steady stream of fluid coming out (no air bubbles).

notes:
-keep the reservoir full of fluid so you don't introduce more air by running the level down.
-you can have the bleeder closed, pump a few times, keep the pedal down, then open and then close.
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Old May 11th, 2007, 07:14 PM   #3 (permalink)
ExileinOblivion
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thanks for the advice man but the shop i took it to is inept... i replaced the slave and the clutch master the clutch is still f'd i guess im gonna have to spend the 1500 to get them to replace the whole hydraulic line. unless you have any other little tips of what it might be. i just cant shift into gear when the car is on, so i know its not my tranny...
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Old May 12th, 2007, 10:30 AM   #4 (permalink)
Zen31ZR
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Bleeding clutch systems is a black art and is not nearly as simple as bleeding a brake system.
I wish it were, but I've lost count of the number of times, and hours, I've spent doing it.....

Basically, the slave cylinder must be removed from the side of the tranny. Keep it attached to the hydraulic line. Bleed as normal until clear fluid with no bubbles can be seen, as described above. NOW, have someone, or do it yourself, GENTLY put pressure on the pedal until the slave cylinder push rod is fully extended. DO NOT put full pressure on the pedal as this can burst the end off the slave cylinder. Release the pedal. Now, reinstall the slave cylinder on the side of the transmission. It will require a bit of force to put back into position. However, now there is residual pressure in the system and this static pressure is what allows the system to work properly when the pedal is pressed.. You shouldn't have any more of the trouble you described above, if everything is working properly.
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Old May 13th, 2007, 08:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
ExileinOblivion
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this actually gives me a glimmer of hope! i figured that the bone head mechanic that was working on my car just figured it was just a minute job... ill print your instructions and take them to him to do it again, but just to cover all of my bases, what would the problem be if that doesnt work?? it would have to be my clutch right?
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Old May 14th, 2007, 06:16 PM   #6 (permalink)
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If the clutch were bad, it probably wouldn't engage at all. In other words, the car would roll freely whether in gear or not. Therefore I'm thinking it's part of your hydraulic system, which unless its in great condition and at 100% fluid and pressure capacity, will greatly affect clutch disengagement. Which is what your problem is. The pressure plate is not being pushed far enough away from the clutch disk and flywheel to allow free gearshift movement. Let me know how it goes. As far as replacement parts, either the clutch slave cylinder or master cylinder are the problem. Sometimes both. There may be a clutch damper as well.
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Old May 14th, 2007, 08:34 PM   #7 (permalink)
Beater
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Just a thought... if it's freezing there still, perhaps something could be frozen up.
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Old May 15th, 2007, 12:14 PM   #8 (permalink)
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alright i have it at ANOTHER shop right now and they promise theyll have it fixed by the end of the day so stay tuned ill post the results tonight. i wish i would have known fairladys are just as big of headaches as real ladies ha! oh yeah by the way its isnt an 89 its a 90 if that makes any difference.
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Old May 19th, 2007, 07:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
roninknight7
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I have the same problem with my 1990 300zx. Can't shift gears when car is on (clutch very loose), but able to shift gears when car is off (clutch feels normal). My clutch only has 10k miles on it. Please let me know if you found what the problem is and how to fix it. Thanks!!
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Old May 20th, 2007, 03:18 PM   #10 (permalink)
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hey again, alright the dudes at the job got the manufacvturers info on how to bleed and they did it properly with the vinyl tubing and the extra jar of fluid and what not. anyway long story short it turns out there was a little rust on my clutch discs that were sticking to my flywheel which meant even with pressure it wasnt moving, all they did was loosen it off the clutch and now its working again but bad news was i went to pull it out of the garage and my pedal lost pressure again, only this time i can shift without using my clutch even when the car is on... this shit is frustrating but they think they just need to have it bled one last time, anyway i promise to keep you posted cause i know how much it sucks to blow half your life saving and half the summer fixing something that SHOULD be so easy...
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Old May 22nd, 2007, 12:24 AM   #11 (permalink)
Beater
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Sounds like the clutch is seized in the opposite position now (not engaging). I can't imagine that the hydraulics are preventing the disc from engaging, unless there is a blockage in the other end of the line. Seems most likely that if rust caused the other problem, it's the cause of this one too.

I'm sorry about your troubles. I'm having clutch problems myself. But this is the way it is with older cars. Something that SHOULD be so easy turns out to be a huge headache. It's tenfold when you try to fix these things yourself. I need my own garage equipped with a hoist, air compressor, pneumatic tools, etc... :P
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Old May 22nd, 2007, 10:35 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ExileinOblivion
hey again, alright the dudes at the job got the manufacvturers info on how to bleed and they did it properly with the vinyl tubing and the extra jar of fluid and what not. anyway long story short it turns out there was a little rust on my clutch discs that were sticking to my flywheel which meant even with pressure it wasnt moving, all they did was loosen it off the clutch and now its working again but bad news was i went to pull it out of the garage and my pedal lost pressure again, only this time i can shift without using my clutch even when the car is on... this shit is frustrating but they think they just need to have it bled one last time, anyway i promise to keep you posted cause i know how much it sucks to blow half your life saving and half the summer fixing something that SHOULD be so easy...
I wonder if people will ever learn about how hydraulic fluid works. Basically, the situation you have described is impossible. The clutch disk backs up to the flywheel anyway, with the pressure plate stacked in on top of it. IE: the clutch disk is in between the pressure plate and the flywheel. If the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel, so what, that's where it's supposed to be. If the pressure plate was stuck to the clutch disk, by rusting or whatever, than an simple jab on the clutch predal would break it loose. Break it loose, or burst the slave cylinder, because that is how fluid works. Clutch fluid, like water, is uncompressable. When pressure is put on it, it moves in the opposite direction at an equal volume, and finds the path of least resistance. Bottom Line: You need to find a new shop, because those guys just screwed up your clutch some how. I can imagine several ways how, but I'll withhold judgement til I hear the outcome. In the meantime, I would consider taking it to a dealership because it sounds like the shops in your town have the equivalent of 2 year olds playing with big boys toys............
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Old May 23rd, 2007, 05:29 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zen31ZR
If the clutch disk is stuck to the flywheel, so what, that's where it's supposed to be. If the pressure plate was stuck to the clutch disk, by rusting or whatever, than an simple jab on the clutch pedal would break it loose.
Correction: The clutch disc is supposed to be stuck to the flywheel only when you're moving. You don't want that thing stuck at idle 'cause the motor would just stall. But yeah, this guy needs to take it to some professionals.
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Old May 24th, 2007, 02:00 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by apudapus
Correction: The clutch disc is supposed to be stuck to the flywheel only when you're moving. You don't want that thing stuck at idle 'cause the motor would just stall. But yeah, this guy needs to take it to some professionals.
What I get for posting tired..... Doesn't matter, as long as the pressure plate isn't stuck to the clutch disk. The clutch disk couldn't possibly stick to the flywheel for any length of time with the car running..... Unless maybe his input shaft is so dry the clutch disk is stuck wherever the pressure plate leaves it. Or maybe it's bent. Which is like a whole new can of worms......
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Old May 24th, 2007, 02:26 PM   #15 (permalink)
ExileinOblivion
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alright now im getting pissed, and i know its just myown fault. i need your guys' professional opinion now... should i just replce the whole friggen clutch and get it over with? like its funny cause if i was modding my car then i would expect this delay but i bought htis car because it was 100% clean and this is still happening,l i hope this isnt a prelude of whats to come... but still if replace the whole clutch is it going to fix 90% of the problems it could be aside from the bleed? like the bars and pressureplates and everything you guys were talkin about??
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