The book says .6 hours.
No way.
I can't even put my hand on the damned thing.
Ok, what's the trick to getting this thing out of there?
GPlease give me some advice on this.
Thanks.
Its easier to just pull the motor...yes I know, sad.......... You have to disconnect the EFI harness completely from the top of the motor anyway, a few more plugs, hoses, and bolts, and the whole motor comes out... They're a total nightmare to get out unless you have small rubber hands. You have to remove the upper and lower plenums, and then fight and wrestle with the bolts on the back of the EGR (and pray that they arent so rusted that the heads shear off), then wrestle with the rusty tubes that go to the headers (or manis on a TT). Reinstalling the new one is just as much of a challenge...... As far as a writeup or tips, I'm not aware of any. It's not hard at all with the motor out, but I'd rather chew broken glass than change an EGR on a Z32 with the motor in.
If the book says 0.6 hours, then I suggest you take it to a mechanic and pay him book rate. If you can get away with payign someone $50 to change it for you, DO EEET!
that job is a NIGHTMARE and will take you hours...
I changed the IACV/AACV on one last weekend and it was bad enough. the EGR is behind and underneath that. you can't even see the sumbitch inside the car. ugh.
it's totally easier to pull the motor and do it out of the car, then put the motor back in.
I've seen some real world dynos of the 16G kit putting a solid 620 HP on the ground with supporting upgrades, and they have plenty more beyond that. I've not seen any real world dynos of the 18G kit, but the price difference between the 16G and the 18G kit seems too much for the gains. Greddy's prices have gone through the roof the last couple months, so I'm glad I bought mine when I did, because they're over $1000 more now.
I've seen some real world dynos of the 16G kit putting a solid 620 HP on the ground with supporting upgrades, and they have plenty more beyond that. I've not seen any real world dynos of the 18G kit, but the price difference between the 16G and the 18G kit seems too much for the gains. Greddy's prices have gone through the roof the last couple months, so I'm glad I bought mine when I did, because they're over $1000 more now.
Nice run, thats the area I'll be aiming for. Is there a list of his other mods?
btw, thread totally hijacked..........
At the time his profile was, JWT Dual POP
Apexi AFC
Blitz SBC-ID3
Lebree Exhaust
Greddy Intercoolers
Greddy TD05H-16G Turbos
Custom Exhaust Piping
Nismo 740cc injectors
Street ported heads(Mild) with JWT stiffer valve springs
RPS super special carbon-carbon clutch.
Whenever the book says whatever time... it means that watever has to be done before that (ie pull engine, or plenums etc) has already been completed... we have the same problem here in the army. A 5-ton engine says 6 hours, but you have to pull off the hood, radiator, wiring harness, etc etc, and then it totals out to like 25 hours...a little different...
You might as well change the EFI harness if the engine is out...lol
92 300z EGR valve replacement
They're a total nightmare to get out unless you have small rubber hands. You have to remove the upper and lower plenums, and then fight and wrestle with the bolts on the back of the EGR (and pray that they arent so rusted that the heads shear off), then wrestle with the rusty tubes that go to the headers (or manis on a TT). Reinstalling the new one is just as much of a challenge...... As far as a writeup or tips, I'm not aware of any. It's not hard at all with the motor out, but I'd rather chew broken glass than change an EGR on a Z32 with the motor in.
I do like the TD05 16g kit better. 
Linear Mode
