Trouble code help!!!!! Nissan 300zx Z31 1986 Turbo - Nissan Forum
Z31 300ZX(T) 1984-1989 Zs - Engine and Chassis Discussion

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post #1 of 19 Old Apr 6th, 2005, 10:00 PM Thread Starter
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Unhappy Trouble code help!!!!! Nissan 300zx Z31 1986 Turbo

Help!!!

My brother took my Nissan into the shop he works at to see what is causing a hesitation in my idle. Basically when idle every 3-5 secs the RPM's will lower to about 500rpms and almost die. I thought this to be my timing, which I got changed with a couple other stuff, timing belt, cam gaskets, tensioner, and water pump (just to make sure everything was running good and so I wouldn't have to pay extra labour later if it did break down). But that didn't fix my hesitation. When I accellerate quickly and time my shifting at about 5-6k rpm, there is no hesitation and no power loss. But if im just idling at a stop light, then that's when the rpm's drop.

So back to my story, my brother took it in to hook up to the computers, and they couldn't get a positive reading. He said they got no reading at all. Is this because its an older car? So they went to the ECM and up pop up all these trouble codes. Although I don't know if they are suppose to pop up at this point or not? They didn't know about the different MODES that they have to set to get MODE III for Self Diagnositcs. So, these are all the codes that pop up, (just to let you know, there are no engine lights on, nothing to show that there is something else wrong with the car other than the hesitation);

14 Car Speed Sensor
23 Idle Switch
24 Netural Switch
31 A/C
41 Fuel temp sensor

So before I go outta my mind at what I think will be a major repair service. Please anyone out there, help me, let me know if you ran into this, or if you know off hand that newer diagnosis computers can't read an older Nissan, and hopefully they read the trouble codes wrong. I'm anxiously waiting.

Don

Last edited by nambino; Apr 6th, 2005 at 10:04 PM.
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post #2 of 19 Old Apr 7th, 2005, 03:36 PM
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Did you get the codes through the self diagnosis in the car? Fix code 23, check the MAF, replace the fuel filter and with all that you should be good.

Zpooled Zo Zya
post #3 of 19 Old Apr 7th, 2005, 11:00 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMESZ
Did you get the codes through the self diagnosis in the car? Fix code 23, check the MAF, replace the fuel filter and with all that you should be good.
Well, I wasn't there, and when I printed out the trouble codes off the net there were seperate modes you have to change it to self diagnostics mode. Since they didn't do the procedures to change the mode, I don't know how they got the trouble codes and if it was even in the right setting.

I was thinking it might be the MAF sensor, another mechanic suggested either the MAP sensor or the O2 Sensor. Before I spend a chuck load of money, I want to make sure it'll fix the problem and im not replacing anything that doesn't need replacing.

Eventually I know I want to swap out all older parts just to make sure it'll last another 10yrs. But right now im concerned about making it work.
post #4 of 19 Old Apr 8th, 2005, 08:35 AM
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The only code I see in the above that would affect how the car runs at idle, is the idle switch. The speed sensor might, but I think thats more in the newer vehicles. The fuel temp sensor only affects the engine on startup on a warm day or if vaporlock might be present. Neutral switch? I must assume you have an automatic.

I'l put it like this, if the MAF was not working properly, you would not be able to rev past 2000 rpm. So you can pretty much stop worrying about that.
The idle speed switch is the little black box on the driver side of the TB. It's either bad or likely unplugged, or the wiring is bad. Check that first, it's probably the cause of your problem.

1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
post #5 of 19 Old Apr 8th, 2005, 01:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ♣Zen31ZR♣
I'l put it like this, if the MAF was not working properly, you would not be able to rev past 2000 rpm. So you can pretty much stop worrying about that.
You can rev the car past 2000 if the MAF is dead. Usually it just won't idle very well. Every time I have had a MAF go bad on a car it has just effected the idle.

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post #6 of 19 Old Apr 8th, 2005, 01:21 PM
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have the ecv check, and the only reason a check engine light would come on it for an emission related failure, thats the only thing the CEL comes on for

i ahd a similar problem with my 87 NA and it was the ECV, which suprisingly didn't set a light

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post #7 of 19 Old Apr 8th, 2005, 07:37 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAMESZ
You can rev the car past 2000 if the MAF is dead. Usually it just won't idle very well. Every time I have had a MAF go bad on a car it has just effected the idle.
We've had several threads here that beg to differ. I suggest you use the search.

1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..

Last edited by ♣Zen31ZR♣; Apr 8th, 2005 at 07:41 PM.
post #8 of 19 Old Apr 8th, 2005, 09:19 PM Thread Starter
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Sorry haven't put enough details about my car.

Nissan 300zx Turbo 5spd Manual Transmission

I can rev past 2000 rpm, I can red line it. It only hesitates when it's idling.

Im pretty sure they didn't know how to pull up the self diagnostics mode and that's why they got a whole bunch of sensor failures that don't even show any affects towards the car.

Other than the trouble codes, has anyone had this same problem? Im going to perform my own Trouble shooting with the ECU and i'll find out the true trouble codes for my engine.

Thanks for all the help, but keep a look out for my next post as to the true trouble codes and what can i do to keep my Z31 going!

Thanks
post #9 of 19 Old Apr 8th, 2005, 09:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nambino
Sorry haven't put enough details about my car.

Nissan 300zx Turbo 5spd Manual Transmission

I can rev past 2000 rpm, I can red line it. It only hesitates when it's idling.

Im pretty sure they didn't know how to pull up the self diagnostics mode and that's why they got a whole bunch of sensor failures that don't even show any affects towards the car.

Other than the trouble codes, has anyone had this same problem? Im going to perform my own Trouble shooting with the ECU and i'll find out the true trouble codes for my engine.

Thanks for all the help, but keep a look out for my next post as to the true trouble codes and what can i do to keep my Z31 going!

Thanks
Pretty sure the idle switch is your problem. Without it the ecu has no reference for when the car is at idle, or coming off idle. It can tell somewhat due to MAF flow increases, and 02 sensor readings, but other than that it's pretty much blind.

1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
post #10 of 19 Old Apr 8th, 2005, 10:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ♣Zen31ZR♣
We've had several threads here that beg to differ. I suggest you use the search.
Yeah I have answered all of those threads the cars didn't always stop at 2k. Usually there is alot more wrong if the car is hitting a dead point. With the MAF dead the car will rev past 2k rpm there is nothing to stop it from reving. It will just have trouble idleing. Ive had the same thing on the Jetta the MAF goes bad every now and then and it just won't idle very well. I've been in a Z31 diagnosing problems before and the car had a bad MAF and it just wouldn't idle.

Zpooled Zo Zya
post #11 of 19 Old Apr 9th, 2005, 02:09 PM
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Nailed I suggest you search more carefully next time.

1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
post #12 of 19 Old Apr 9th, 2005, 03:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ♣Zen31ZR♣
Nailed I suggest you search more carefully next time.
That is only one occassion; there are dozens of threads about the MAF. Typically only idle is noticeably effected.

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post #13 of 19 Old Apr 9th, 2005, 10:06 PM
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Hey, I'm just trying to help the guy out. Based on past experiences, I think it's the idle switch. You could be right, but I gotta go with what I know. Based on price, the idle switch is a lot cheaper to replace. I'd have it tested or swap another one in, at least.

1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
post #14 of 19 Old Apr 11th, 2005, 12:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks everyone, im going to try some of these things this weekend. It might also be my Air Regulator, because the sensor hookup is in bad shape. I'll let you guys know what I find out!

Thanks again!
post #15 of 19 Old Apr 11th, 2005, 07:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nambino
Thanks everyone, im going to try some of these things this weekend. It might also be my Air Regulator, because the sensor hookup is in bad shape. I'll let you guys know what I find out!

Thanks again!
The air regulator should have thrown a code, too, if it was not properly connected.

1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
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