Hey my 86 300, when i let of the gas pedel in gear, like 35mph lets say, i hear ticking maybe valves? It goes away as I step on gas.. what would that be?
Theres a few schools of thought to this answer. One way I have heard of is to add a 1/4 to 1/2 a quart of auto trans fluid run it for a while and drain it. If left too long the trans fluid can affect the seals , so it's best to drain it after a few hours of running.
Another way is to use one of the oil cleaners from the autoparts store , but those in the know don't care for that approach , among other things it puts main and con bearings at risk. The solvent used is 1/10 as hydro-dynamic as even water and also turns oil into a mere shadow of it's former viscosity. I'd use this only in dire situations where oil galley clogging is a probability.
You can use a much lighter weight oil for a short time , such as 0W30 (Mobil) , or even 5W30 , but I wouldn't go driving and boosting (those of us with boost ) on such light weight oil.
Or , you can use a full synthetic oil , they have great detergent properties , but tend to clean seals out so well that the older ones on cars such as ours can spring leaks.
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1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
I wouldn't use any of the store-bought engine cleaners. As a class, they are better than they used to be but if you use one with too much solvent in it, you might get a bunch of wear and/or a bad seal/leaking problem.
I'd use a 15W-40 gas/diesel motor oil to clean up an older or well-used motor. These dual rated, fleet-type "Heavy Duty Engine Oils" have a very stout detergent/dispersant additive package to keep diesel oil crankcases clean after many thousands of miles. They also have more anti-foamants and more barrier wear additives which make them suitable for high-RPM applications. This weight is also a pretty good one for most high-performance engines.
Months ago, I would have strongly urged you to use Pennzoil Long Life 15W-40 as it had nearly 200PPM of moly in it (more than any other mass-market brand) but very recently, they took the moly out. I'm not sure why.
Chevron Delo400 or pretty much any of them would work fine, I'm sure.
Oh, and not all straight 30 weight oils are non-detergent and ATFs don't necessarily have the high detergency many people think they do. Just wanted to mention that.
Edit - typos & minor changes.
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--- Bror Jace
Last edited by Bror Jace : Aug 16th, 2004 at 07:17 AM.
I wouldn't use any of the store bought cleaners. As a class, they are better than they used to be but if you use one with too much solvent in it, you might get a bunch or wear and/or a seal problem.
I'd use a 15W-40 gas/diesel motor oil to clean up an older or well-used motor. These fleet-type "Heavy Duty Engine Oils" have a very stout detergent/dispersant additive package to keep diesel oil crankcases clean after many thousands of miles. They also have more anti-foamants and more barrier wear additives which make them suitable for high-RPM applications. The weight is even a pretty good one for most high-performance engines.
Months ago, I would have strongly urged you to use Pennzoil Long Life 15W-40 as it had nearly 200PPM of moly in it but very recently, they took the moly out.
Chevron Delo400 or pretty much any one would work fine, I'm sure.
Oh, and not all straight 30 weight oils are non-detergent and ATFs don't necessarily have the high detergency many people think they do.
Passenger side of the engine you won't be able to see it heh. It is fairly well hidden but with a few seconds of feeling around you will find it. Also don't do this when the engine is hot; then again I assume you know this.
) on such light weight oil. 
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