Someone please help! ive spent 2K$ on repair parts that didnt help. I was driving down the road no problems then system failure! everything shut down.
no boom no smoke it just wont start! I have replaced the battery with a diesal performance battery, replaced the coil, mass air flow senser, fuel pressure regulator, spark plug wires and spark plugs, fuel pump, Timing belt, and fuel filter. I Even cleaned my injectors.
I have compression and fuel but no spark. No juice at all as a matter of fact coming out of the brand new coil but voltage is going in! Whats going on???
Please Help Someone!
Someone please help! ive spent 2K$ on repair parts that didnt help. I was driving down the road no problems then system failure! everything shut down.
no boom no smoke it just wont start! I have replaced the battery with a diesal performance battery, replaced the coil, mass air flow senser, fuel pressure regulator, spark plug wires and spark plugs, fuel pump, Timing belt, and fuel filter. I Even cleaned my injectors.
I have compression and fuel but no spark. No juice at all as a matter of fact coming out of the brand new coil but voltage is going in! Whats going on???
Please Help Someone!
go on ebay and buy another ecu....if it turns out to not be an ecu problem, sell the ecu or keep it as a backup....but it sounds like an ecu problem....run the codes...if nothing comes up...get a new ecu
I have run a diagnostic, the ecu flashes for..... well i have never let it finish.
but i have a weight reduction and alot of useless parts are gone such as heater core, ac pump etc. so they trigger error codes. Any other Ideas?
By The way i have a non turbo. i noticed i was in the turbo thread but im new to this and frustrated please forgive me
Last edited by The300ZXMan : Jan 23rd, 2006 at 02:32 PM.
I have run a diagnostic, the ecu flashes for..... well i have never let it finish.
but i have a weight reduction and alot of useless parts are gone such as heater core, ac pump etc. so they trigger error codes. Any other Ideas?
I had a similar problem, though it only shut off once while the vehicle was in motion, but would not restart after reaching operating temperature until the car had cooled down completely. Turns out the culprit was my power transistor.
Either way, run the codes and eliminate the codes caused by changes you're already aware of.
I had a similar problem, though it only shut off once while the vehicle was in motion, but would not restart after reaching operating temperature until the car had cooled down completely. Turns out the culprit was my power transistor.
Either way, run the codes and eliminate the codes caused by changes you're already aware of.
Thanx im going to try that. sounds lagit. but please people keep passing me sugestions!
have you checked your fuseible links? that may appear good, and even be good, but the connections could be weak.
Turn the ign. key to on. Go under the hood, and shake down the electrical connections by your battery (and near the links). I have an 88 200sx (yes i know, different car) that had a similar problem.
Could also be your CAS. but you cant know that w/o diagnostics, or testing it specifically.
Ok stop buying parts before you go broke thats what I did.
if your still reading this forum check your engine temp sensor. are cars are old so the connections can corroode or the sensor goes bad. usually a good tell of this problem is gas on the spark plugs. The engine will flood and then die. i did the same thing on my car even new FPR and MAS. check it out first before you move on.
Juice going in to the coil but not coming out, it's probably the ignitor pack. Thats the small box right near the coil. That controls the coils field collapse based on where it sees the distributor as being. The entire system is self contained and seperate from the ECU. The ECU only controls the fuel and anything associated with that, based on airflow, O2 sensor, and CHTS readings.
If the coil is new, that leaves only the igniter pack, or the CAS which is inside the distributor itself.
The only time I've ever seen a CAS fail is when the distributor got so hot that it fried the electronics inside. As far as longevity goes they can last 20+ years, so long term dependability is not an issue.
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1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
Juice going in to the coil but not coming out, it's probably the ignitor pack. Thats the small box right near the coil. That controls the coils field collapse based on where it sees the distributor as being. The entire system is self contained and seperate from the ECU. The ECU only controls the fuel and anything associated with that, based on airflow, O2 sensor, and CHTS readings.
If the coil is new, that leaves only the igniter pack, or the CAS which is inside the distributor itself.
The only time I've ever seen a CAS fail is when the distributor got so hot that it fried the electronics inside. As far as longevity goes they can last 20+ years, so long term dependability is not an issue.
what is this "ignitor pack"? can you take a pic of it on your vehicle and post? I'm having a similar problem and have never heard of it, so I'd like to see what the unit is and test it on my vehicle since I have spare parts available to test with.
what is this "ignitor pack"? can you take a pic of it on your vehicle and post? I'm having a similar problem and have never heard of it, so I'd like to see what the unit is and test it on my vehicle since I have spare parts available to test with.
I don't my Z anymore, unfortunately. However, the pack is quite easy to spot, it's right next to the coil.
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1992 Yamaha FZR 1000. 145 Hp, all stock..
87 300zx turns over but wont start?!?!
I Have
Linear Mode
