Posted my notes on another forum thread, but here I just copied them for you
Xtrail 06 blower motor noise - Nissanhelp.com Forums
''Some observations that may be of help to someone else
1) There are 3 clips holding the blower unit electrical connections, that you need to pinch from behind to be able to pop them out. They are behind the black plastic wraps that you will see holding the wiring for the unit to it.
2) All of the electrical wiring connectors are different, but all require you to insert a small flat screwdriver into an outside tab, which you depress and then pull out
3)the highest one up for the electrical door motor connector is a bit tricky and easier to access once you have the ecm completely removed. This is done by undoing the 2 mounting bolts holding it, and then undoing the electrical connectors (Make sure you have disconnected your battery prior to doing this.
4) Getting the blower unit out requires patience, and more than a little jiggling and swearing. Just make sure you are free of all wires. The right side of the blower with its outside tab and door motor gets kind of caught easily in the wires on the top right side of the dash.
5) Don't even bother pretending you can undo the tabs holding the blower unit together, just break each with a flat head screw driver, then undo the screws ( When you reassemble you just use more half inch screws in all of the holes already there)
6)The fan comes off by removing the top bolt and pulling the whole thing straight up.
7) Heat gun on first setting for about a minute around the plastic base will soften it sufficiently for you to put vice grips on motor shaft, hold the unit between your feet, and pull steadily. It will come out. (there is a screw that you need to have removed at the base).
8) Wire brush off soot, shavings, whatever you find. In mine the bushing really didnt seem bad, but there was a fair bit of crap under the bottom one when I got it out.
9) Only do one side at a time with the bearing replacement, and I think doing the front one first gives you a better chance of keeping the shaft in alignment. Also you need to bend back every tab not just the three that stick out the most. You wont be able to seat the bearing unless it can clear all of them . Use a 12mm or 13mm socket head to tap the bearing down until its properly seated all the way. Then I put on 2 8mm washers, though I could have probably used one and then all of the original washers and rubber disks, but the important thing is that you get it to the right height for the clip that locks into the groove on the shaft. Then bend down the clips as best you can around the bearing.
10) Then do the back side. Again all the clips need bending. The brass bushes come out by prying them up with pics on two sides. You are never removing the shaft, just sliding the bearing down it in place of the bushings. To this one I added one 8mm spacer and one of the thin washers that was originally on it. Again rebend the tabs around new bearing.
11) Push the motor back into the plastic housing, reconnect everything and screw it all together.
12) Get a good light under your dash and position the unit back in. Was actually easier than getting it out originally. Probably because I could see better lol!
Total part cost of repair was $15 tax included using 698-ZZ bearings.''