I have been having this ongoing problem with the idle for quiet some time. While the car is in drive everything runs great. When it comes to a stop, it idles fine, then the A/C compressor kicks on, the idle increases, which is normal. However, when the compres shuts off the idle drops close to 400 -500 RPM's and the car struggling not to stall out. Then, the idle jumps back to normal RPM's. This drop and rise in the idle happens everytime the a/c compressor kicks on or I use the a/c. Furthermore, the car was not used for 1 week, when i started it up, it was hard to start, like the battery was weak, which is new BTW. I an starting to think this is an electrical issue. Any suggestions
Frank
I have been having this ongoing problem with the idle for quiet some time. While the car is in drive everything runs great. When it comes to a stop, it idles fine, then the A/C compressor kicks on, the idle increases, which is normal. However, when the compres shuts off the idle drops close to 400 -500 RPM's and the car struggling not to stall out. Then, the idle jumps back to normal RPM's. This drop and rise in the idle happens everytime the a/c compressor kicks on or I use the a/c. Furthermore, the car was not used for 1 week, when i started it up, it was hard to start, like the battery was weak, which is new BTW. I an starting to think this is an electrical issue. Any suggestions
Frank
bump the idle just a little bit. find the iacv behind the #1 cylinder on the intake manifold and turn the screw out just a tiny bit. that will raise the idle.
Frank,
I think the IAC valve may be the cause of the problem, however try bumping the idle up with the screw as suggested. Also get the charging system checked at a parts store after cleaning the battery terminals and tightening the clamps. This may affect the idle fluctuation as well. As I think about it do a voltage drop test between the battery and the engine ground by placing the negative lead on the negative terminal and the positive lead on the block. The voltmeter should read less than 0.2v
Troy
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SHIFT_Happiness
1992 S13 240SX SE Fastback KA24DE 5 spd - Type X Aero & Seibon Carbon Hood & Hatch -soon GT28RS
1993 U13 Altima SE KA24DET 5 spd w/ Nismo LSD - A high hp FWD can be fun (GT30R Turbo inside)
1990 Z32 300ZX VG30DETT 5 spd - 600HP & Very Civilized (working on twin GT28RS turbos)
Still trying to import a 1988 R31 Skyline GTS-R w/ RB20DET-R - only 800 produced (legal under show/display regs)
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SHIFT_Happiness
1992 S13 240SX SE Fastback KA24DE 5 spd - Type X Aero & Seibon Carbon Hood & Hatch -soon GT28RS
1993 U13 Altima SE KA24DET 5 spd w/ Nismo LSD - A high hp FWD can be fun (GT30R Turbo inside)
1990 Z32 300ZX VG30DETT 5 spd - 600HP & Very Civilized (working on twin GT28RS turbos)
Still trying to import a 1988 R31 Skyline GTS-R w/ RB20DET-R - only 800 produced (legal under show/display regs)
I checked the battery out at lunchtime, it has 12.8 across leads and 0.2 from negative to chassis ground using a voltmeter and with out the car running, I assume this is an acceptable range.
Next, I adjusted the idle screw, as it turned out the screw was turned fully clockwise tight, I guess the mechanic who last serviced my car thought it was a regular screw. Anyways I adjusted it and the RMP's fluctuation is considerable less with the compressor cycling. Not perfect though. I know that the baseline RPM is 650 +/- 50. How do I get a more acurate output reading besides the dashboard tachometer? I read the EC26 in the service manuals and unless I have a console I stuck.
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