Check Engine Light

jstooks · Apr 12th, 2004, 06:53 PM

I have a 1995 Altima 2.4cyl with 190,000 miles. I was driving the other day and the check engine light came on. Car seemed to drive fine with no problems. I figured it was a sensor of some kind. I took it to the shop and they said it was the EGR, then they put plugs, wires, cap and button on it, but still didn't fix it. They informed me today that it had a short in the wiring harness and every code was coming up in the computer: O2 Sensor, Knock Sensor ect..... I know a little alot about cars for a girl....... I have worked on them since I was little, but my thinking is, if I had a short, wouldn't it slowly get to the point that wires are touching, and if there was a short wouldn't the car run like crap if every sensor was showing up in the computer. Or does the computer completly take over and just shut down those sensors? I am a little confused about this and anyone that can throw some suggestions out there would be greatly appreciated. I am going to take it somewhere else later this week, but first I thought I would ask you guys..

KA24Tech · Apr 13th, 2004, 04:02 PM

Oh it makes me mad when shops do this! They tell you it was the EGR, give your car a tune up and then tell you it has miraculously developed a sudden case of "everything is wrong with it".
Did they say it was the EGR valve or the EGR solenoid or the code(s) that were originally stored. Most states they have to list the code retrieved on your work order before they can do the work. My problem with them is they didn't fix your car so now they want to throw a bunch of parts at it. They are trying to see if they can stumble across the problem which probably doesn't exist and have you pay for it. I say take your car to a reputable shop but first get a Haynes Manual ($15) or Nissan Factory Service Manual ($80) for the Altima and then do the trouble code diagnosis yourself.
I can try to help if you can get me the code(s) which come up but most definitely get your car out of there!!!

Troy

jstooks · Apr 15th, 2004, 08:09 AM

I have to say this shop is doing a good job at trying to fix it, but at a minumum cost. It was the EGR soelnoid. But when they said that didn't fix it they put my old one back on. I will try to get a list of those codes. I know that they said the EGR Solenoid, O2Sensor, Knock Sensor, Vaccum system, catelitic converter was all showing up. But just last fall I had a new exhause system along with a converter put on and an O2Sensor. I haven't paid for anything as of now, I picked up my car Tuesday, just trying to figure out what I am going to do. This is the problem, I had a guy perform a hit-and-run on my vehicle 2 years ago and the insurance company totalled my car due to mileage, so I bought the car back for $550.00, just because I knew that I couldn't go buy another used car for that and know what was wrong with it. It has very minimum damage to the rear door, that is why I kept it. So do I want to spend the money and have my baby fixed or go and buy another Altima. It will be a Nissan either way. What would you do? Do you and can you trust the dealership to do you right??????? Dealerships scare me, just because of the stories you hear. (Not giving any dealership a bad name)

Coco · Apr 15th, 2004, 08:49 AM

Being the type of person that I am, I would not waste my time and money trying to fix it. If I had the money to buy a new altima, I would...but that's just me.

KA24Tech · Apr 15th, 2004, 05:03 PM

Have the shop clear the codes and then see what comes up as a "hard code" - one that comes back because of a bad component. Usually a series of strange mostly unrelated codes are from other systems just working correctly but the ECU says they are out of "normal" operating parameters. I would try that first then rediagnose the problem. I am still sceptical about the harness being the problem though.
I'll see if I can come up with a couple of ideas of what may cause your problem also.

Even with your small problems, if the rest the car is in good shape, then I would fix it and drive it. Although My 93 Altima has 95K miles on it, I have spent nearly $40K turning it into the car I wanted because I really like it so I can definitely understand your devotion to your car.

I like certain dealers but I find out more about them before I give them my business or refer people to them, just as anyone should do...

Troy

jstooks · Apr 16th, 2004, 11:29 AM

I spoke with the shop yesterday and asked them exactally what codes were coming up on the scanner: P0325 (Knock Sensor Problem, Bank 1) and P1400 (EGR Control Solenoid Problem). I have to agree, I don't think it is in the wiring harness either. He said that everytime they would clear the codes, they kept coming back.

KA24Tech · Apr 17th, 2004, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jstooks

I spoke with the shop yesterday and asked them exactally what codes were coming up on the scanner: P0325 (Knock Sensor Problem, Bank 1) and P1400 (EGR Control Solenoid Problem). I have to agree, I don't think it is in the wiring harness either. He said that everytime they would clear the codes, they kept coming back.

I would say first have them check the EGR operation but my guess is that the valve is stuck open, which is what is causing the rough running condition. The knock sensor is being triggered because the engine running rough so it is working correctly. If they take off the EGR and look at the valve seat it will probably have some carbon holding it open but a good cleaning will take care of that. As long as the shaft from the diaphram to the valve head is not worn and the diaphram holds a 10 inches of vacuum for 30 seconds then the valve should be usable.
I hope this cures your problem(s).

Troy

peeryml · Jul 10th, 2005, 04:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jstooks

I spoke with the shop yesterday and asked them exactally what codes were coming up on the scanner: P0325 (Knock Sensor Problem, Bank 1) and P1400 (EGR Control Solenoid Problem). I have to agree, I don't think it is in the wiring harness either. He said that everytime they would clear the codes, they kept coming back.

Hi, I recently had the EXACT same problem.
Per The 95 Altima/Stanze NISSAN Shop Manual;
DTC34 (P0325)-"Knock Sensor"
DTC105 (P1400)-"EGR and Canister Control Solenoid Valve"

I read the codes from the ECM and tried to find something wrong. Based on the two codes and as a guess, it looked like something in the EGR caused a lean burn which probably caused the knock sensor indication so I focused on the EGR solenoid . Everything checked out perfect. So I cleaned the solenoid contacts and the engine ground wires and cleared the codes. Since the P1400 comes on only with an electrical problem with the solenoid or it's circuit, I didn't check EGR function.

Two trips later MIL light came back on and I checked for codes again. This time just a DTC105 (P1400), so it looks like an intermittent problem in the EGR solenoid or its circuit. The circuit is fairly simple so it's either the solenoid, one of three connectors, or the ECM (I hope not). The connectors are very difficult to get to. I'm debating with myself whether or not to replace the EGR solenoid.

Did you ever get this problem tracked down and fixed??

jserrano · Jul 21st, 2005, 04:42 PM

I once had a bad EGR solenoid which worked fine when cold but went bad when hot. It could be a bad intermittent EGR solenoid. Also, follow KA24Tech's sugguestions. EGR valves tends to stick due to carbon deposits and that causes bad engine idle.

peeryml · Jul 22nd, 2005, 12:17 PM

It turned out to be the EGR solenoid valve. Replaced the solenoid several days ago and no problems since.
I think people tend to get off track with troubleshooting by using the generic trouble code interpretations rather than the specifics from the manufacturer. They don't always match and the manufcaturer is allowed to choose the closest generic code to their specific code to meet the federal regulations.
The DTC105 pointed me straight to the electrical portion of the EGR solenoid valve and that's what it was.
I did have a carbon plugged EGR sensing tube problem a couple of years ago but that came in as a different trouble code.

Agoudine · Sep 2nd, 2005, 09:43 PM

Please tell me where did you replace the solenoid and how much did it cost?
Thank you.

peeryml · Sep 3rd, 2005, 10:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Agoudine

Please tell me where did you replace the solenoid and how much did it cost?
Thank you.

I had to buy the solenoid (sits on the very top-center-toward rear of the engine) from a dealer as no after market store seemed to be able to find it in their parts books. I shopped around at several Nissan dealers in the Portland Oregon area and found the cheapest was ~$80.

Agoudine · Sep 3rd, 2005, 11:26 AM

Thank you very much.

rherrell · Sep 15th, 2005, 03:34 PM

I have a 2001 maxims gle. The service engine light came on and said bank 1 was to lean. We replaced the sensor that was dead reset the code only to have the same code come up a day later. So we replaced all the sensors and reset the computer and now it shows all sensors are fine but they stick on lean first thing in the morning and the car just don't run in the morning at all. Any help would be appreciate it. thanks