97 Altima: Alternator/Belts? - Page 2

I'm3rd · Oct 11th, 2007, 09:26 AM

I don't know much about electronic ignition systems but couldn't you just pull the plug wires out of the distributor cap and check the compression without getting electricity to the plugs? I have run compression checks on American cars before without doing anything but taking out the spark plugs and leaving the plug wires off the plugs while I cranked the engine over.. But that was back when they still used the old make and break ignition system so it may not work on newer electronic ignition systems.

Altima SSS · Oct 11th, 2007, 03:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zakgord

After reading that and researching online, here is the order that i did:

1. Relieve fuel pressure system (remove fuel pump fuse) I might have also disconnectd the grounding wire from the battery, (i try to do that when tampering with fuses) dont remember for sure, could have led to the incomplete testing?
2. removed one of the electrical connectors from the dist
3. remove spark plugs
4. insall gauge
5. tried to crank engine

Looking at my *clean* distributor in comparison with the rest of the motor and reading what haynes is saying about 2.4L distributor setup compared to other models, would it be possible i have an aftermarket/ rebuilt dist from another...maybe non 2.4L model. I have some pictures of it in my previous reply.

So in step 5 above, I take it the engine did not crank over? It's hard to believe that disconnecting the distributor signal wires disalbes the starter.

Like I said, the Haynes manual doesn't always seem to be accurate. My '94 has 5 wires on the distributor cap ... 4 go to the spark plugs, and one goes to the coil's high output side. The Haynes manual is assuming there is a high tension wire from the coil to the distributor on 93 - 04 cars, but I don't think that's true.

I really don't think you could put a distributor from non-2.4L engine on the 2.4L engine. I think the distributor/coil setup was changed somewhere along the line on the 2.4L engines.

zakgord · Oct 11th, 2007, 04:23 PM

Quote:

So in step 5 above, I take it the engine did not crank over? It's hard to believe that disconnecting the distributor signal wires disalbes the starter.

Right, it did not crank over...does seem strange that that would disable the starter.

However, I tried this test before I replaced my alternator and cleaned my battery posts (was having starting problems, although the few times before and after i attempted this test, the car started fine when hooked up normally). Perhaps was just my faulty alternator/connection....Maybe now it would work, otherwise i will have to do more research to try and figure out how to check compression on my specific setup.

I have read where some people simply remove the spark plugs and plug the gauge in then cranking, omitting any electrical disassembly steps....then others would reply that this could burn-up/damage ignition or starting hardware.

Altima SSS · Oct 11th, 2007, 04:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by I'm3rd

I don't know much about electronic ignition systems but couldn't you just pull the plug wires out of the distributor cap and check the compression without getting electricity to the plugs? I have run compression checks on American cars before without doing anything but taking out the spark plugs and leaving the plug wires off the plugs while I cranked the engine over.. But that was back when they still used the old make and break ignition system so it may not work on newer electronic ignition systems.

That would be one way of doing it. I think they always suggest grounding the high tension lead from the coil just so there isn't a change of the high voltage arcing anywhere.