Intake manifold gasket

KDragon · Jul 20th, 2007, 10:51 AM

Ok so I know I have a leak. bad idle whistling noise unter heavy throttle and slight loss of power. and when i spray carb cleaner on the 3-4 runners the idle drops.

I NEED to go to Chicago this weekend and don't want to drive that far with it leaking. Is there any kind of temporary fix? Ill get it fixed ASAP but i need it now!

dmcgreal · Jul 20th, 2007, 04:46 PM

i dont know of any temp. fixes i just had mine done $500.00 and that was kinda cheap

MickeyKnox · Jul 20th, 2007, 07:43 PM

don't know of any temporary fixes.

you can replace it fairly easy. you have to have 1/4 inch swivel extension. you need to flush coolant though.

just to replace the gasket it's about 3 hour job. some people take it out. soak it in degreaser replace all gaskets, hoses around intake manifold. you will need torque wrench to tighten the 10 12mm bolts to about 150in/lbs.

without swivel extension you can forget about it. that's why people make such a big deal out of intake manifold gasket replacement. they first remove throttle body half and then the upper manifold. because they have never seen swivel extension. which allows you to screw bolts at 90degrees. 3$ in autozone get greatneck, craftsman but not duralast <-- makes their products from donkey shit.

also you will need some rtv sealant, because you will have to remove pcv valve housing which is held by 3 10mm bolts. I can post pic if you are gonna do it.

KDragon · Jul 20th, 2007, 10:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MickeyKnox

don't know of any temporary fixes.

you can replace it fairly easy. you have to have 1/4 inch swivel extension. you need to flush coolant though.

just to replace the gasket it's about 3 hour job. some people take it out. soak it in degreaser replace all gaskets, hoses around intake manifold. you will need torque wrench to tighten the 10 12mm bolts to about 150in/lbs.

without swivel extension you can forget about it. that's why people make such a big deal out of intake manifold gasket replacement. they first remove throttle body half and then the upper manifold. because they have never seen swivel extension. which allows you to screw bolts at 90degrees. 3$ in autozone get greatneck, craftsman but not duralast <-- makes their products from donkey shit.

also you will need some rtv sealant, because you will have to remove pcv valve housing which is held by 3 10mm bolts. I can post pic if you are gonna do it.

pics of the pvc part would help. Yeah im going to do it it will be my first big repair on the car done be me so.... Ill take lots of pics for every one.

If its only a 3hr job it should only be like $300 at a good shop at most.

Also I need to know if its safe to drive that far...

MickeyKnox · Jul 23rd, 2007, 10:23 AM

sorry dude. I was drunk as hell last couple of days after finishing my car. gonna post pic in a minute.

this is the swivel connector you must have. the bending part between 1/4 inch socket extension and actual socket. here I use it to remove driver side upper bolt. there are 10 of them. but you get the idea right?
you will need to remove injectors and fuel delivery line to get access to them.

before you unbolt pcv valve housing you need to loosen power steering pump and move it out of the way. the top bolt is easily reachable. the lower 14mm bolt is the one that holds it to the engine. you can see it through ps pump pulley if the pulley hole is in the lowest position. but you need a regular wrench to unbolt it. use 12point round side of your wrench to LOOSEN 14mm lower bolt. you just need to loosen ps pump and move it towards the windshield.

this is pcv valve housing. it's on top of power steering pump. so you need to loosen up the lower 14mm power steering bolt and the upper 12 mm bolt.

disconnect the heater hoses:

there are brackets that hold intake manifold to the engine. I took pic of the right bracket. once you get underneath you can find one more bracket which is near power steering pump. it is held by 1 12mm bolt. fuck fuck fuck. I forgot to screw it back in. that's why I had this dangling sound.

basically disconnect all those vacuum hoses and wires that go to intake manifold. after you remove all 10 12mm bolts you can just pull the intake out. the trickiest part for me was that I forgot to unscrew the pcv valve housing.

KDragon · Jul 23rd, 2007, 04:01 PM

Wow sweet that doesn't look to bad. So both halves IACV and TB all come out as one? That should make it a lot easer that I thought.

BTW I made it to chicagao and back in one pice. The idle got a bit worse but it still drives fine.

MickeyKnox · Jul 24th, 2007, 02:39 AM

yes throttle body and IACV will come out together with intake. good idea to unscrew bolts which hold vacuum pipes going around throttle body. I think your lowest intake bolt on the driver side of intake will be blocked by vacuum pipe. I just bent the vacuum pipe a little to get the bolt out.

KDragon · Aug 8th, 2007, 11:58 PM

Sorry for dragging up an old topic but I keep reading that carb cleaner sprayed on an intake leak with make the idle speed go up HOWEVER when i tired this my idle dropped and the car sounded like it was close to dieing. so I'm wondering if there is something else to my problem?