On a hot day when stopping or putting the car in neutral the cars rpm drops below 500rpm and often stalls. Sometimes I can be waiting for the light to change and the rpms drop from 800 to below 500 or stalls. Occasionally when I go to start it back up it is extremely hard to start. It only does this when the temp is in the mid 80's or higher.
Mickey means you have to remove the rotor and cap then once you are at the actual distributor, remove the black plastiic housing. You will see an encoder disk and sensor, if you see oil replace your distributor.
Mickey means you have to remove the rotor and cap then once you are at the actual distributor, remove the black plastiic housing. You will see an encoder disk and sensor, if you see oil replace your distributor.
Again that was already done and I replaced it. Took the IAVC off last night and it was not gunked up with carbon. Cleaned it out a bit. I am looking into maybe the fuel pump now. The MAF is ok. Vacuum lines are fine as well.
hard starts... sounds like maf censor... do you have a friend with an altima? swap your air filter assembly and intakes. see if the problem reoccurs.
what do you mean MAF is ok? did you change it? I fixed my stalling car by cleaning throttle body and MAF censor. not sure which one is the cause. use MAF and TB cleaner.
Yes I did clean the MAF and throttle body. I also did electrical testing on it.
As far as the IAVC, when I took it out to clean it all looked good with it. I remounted it but am now missing one bolt. Not sure how well the seal is. Inspite of that my car slightly sputters but instead of wanting to stall it will kick up from 800rpm to about 1500rpm for a second and drop back down.
continuity or resistance test of your maf censor is not enough. I would definitely try using someone elses maf censor. and you actually have to measure your fuel pressure with gauge.
did you test alternator?
Yes I did clean the MAF and throttle body. I also did electrical testing on it.
As far as the IAVC, when I took it out to clean it all looked good with it. I remounted it but am now missing one bolt. Not sure how well the seal is. Inspite of that my car slightly sputters but instead of wanting to stall it will kick up from 800rpm to about 1500rpm for a second and drop back down.
I recently got towed into my local Nissan dealership after the AA could not read my x-trail with their vixen onboard equipment, they could not understand why the car would start fine but when you try to raise Rpm above 1500 the engine dies and sometimes stopped completely. when the car was checked by Nissan they said it was the Mass Air Flow Sensor, this was replaced 1000 miles ago, two days ago a similar thing started to happen the engine died whilst travelling along at normal speed I tried to accelerate it only got worse.I initially thought it was because I was low on fuel [I was on the way to fuel up at the time] It went back to Nissan and they blamed it on the fuel filter apparently they said the fuel filter had contamination and would replace the filter, and added it could also need new pumps as the x-trails has two. I did not agree with this comment.
I had the vehicle removed from the dealership and after getting the fuel tank removed and thoroughly cleaned out, all fuel lines blown out and a new filter fitted the car runs fine, saving myself the price of two new pumps. final bill £195 instead of around £500 possibly more if I would have gve them the go ahead to replace the pumps, it always pays to get a second opinion
Ok I replaced the IACV and it no longer sputters or dies on hot days. I also replaced the fuel pump,screen, and filter. Now I just need to figure out why I struggle on hills and slow going in first.
Ok I replaced the IACV and it no longer sputters or dies on hot days. I also replaced the fuel pump,screen, and filter. Now I just need to figure out why I struggle on hills and slow going in first.
Looks to me like I may be going after that MAF sensor afterall. It worked fine for about a week or 2 and sometimes has problems again with dying at intersections or idling. Seems to happen more when their is high moisture and heat in the air.
Guess my last post didn't make it.
I spoke with a local Mechanic and he suggested I clean the maf sensor with Carb cleaner. I got a MAF sensor cleaner instead used it. Put the sensor back on and the car was worse. It was an extremely rough idle and would not stay started and was hard to start. Took the throttle body off and cleaned it as well and no luck. So I am not sure if now I need to start by replacing the MAF sensor or if there is some sort of adjustment that needs to be made. What are the chances that the throttle control sensor could be bad? Can I make any minor adjustments to it that might help. Seems that the throttle sensor could be adjusted left or right.
Ok one last post before I tackle this. I read the codes off the ECM. If I am reading it correctly the code is 45 which is a fuel injector leak. It had 4 long (a pause) 5 short. This code indicates a Fuel injector leak. It appears all the hoses look fine. I will probably be removing and cleaning the injectors. The only other code that it might represent is 54, but since I don't have an A/T I am putting my money on the code being 45.
Replaced MAF, no luck. Waiting on a few other parts. Replacing the Fuel Pressure regulator, Fuel injectors in the next day. I saw another post about the TPS and I will check that out.
Car cutting /intermittent running
Linear Mode
