zakgord

Hello, new here. Anyways, Ive had my altima about 2 years now and the last year or so the check engine light had been coming on periodically for a few days then reset itself. However these last 4 - 6 mos the light wont go off. The car idles a bit rough at times, especially when after extended driving times.

Ive replaced the plugs and wires, and that didnt do anything. The computer at the mechanic and AutoZone gave the code 0302, misfire on cynlinder 2. I even had them reset it to see if it was just some error but it came back on within a day or 2. I then checked to make sure i was getting a spark by grounding a spark plug from cable 2 to the block, with the cylinder still plugged, and the wire did send a spark. Well then i was advised to see if the exhaust off the cylinder was getting warm or to check the compression. He suggested it might be a burnt valve (it did overheat last summer and i had to replace the radiator). Well, my friend who was going to help me with this is no longer around.

THis was about a month ago. Well today i was talking to someone from a nissan shop and he said it could be fluid, if i take the plug out and look in the hole i might see some fluid. I havent done that yet as its late and the car is still warm after driving. So if i check that in the morning and there's no fluid where do i go from there?

suren

I had the same code failure on my 97.5 altima three months ago.

I suspect your spark plug wires or injector not working, here is the flow
I created from reading Nissan service manual after my plug misfired.

easy to test:
- while car running, put long thin flat screw driver on each
injector and hear clicking sound and compare to other injectors.
- check for hissing sound for vacuum related at vacuum hoses
for cracks, bulge, disconnected hose
- check for exhause blockage, smoke and its color and odor
- attach a timing light and make sure it fires on every
spark plug wire.

- let it cooldown car overnight. and when car is cold:
- check and compare ignition wire resistance, 4.15 - 5.61Kohm
- check and compare spark plug resisitance
- check injecor resisstance(if no clicking heard on the injector
when car running), 10 - 14ohm
- check EGR resistance and voltage levels

more involved, longer time to test:
- warm up the car fully
- diconnect hose at fuel pressure regulator EC12, and attach
vacuum gauge at the hose, leave FPR port floating. Start
the car and see reading
- spary carubator clearner at every connection at intake
and exhaust manifold joints and change for idle speed.
- stop engine and connect vacuum gauge to the FPR and apply vacuum
source, plug the vacuum hose end and check operation
- while car is warmed, turn off, remove fuel pump fuse
start the car to purge fuel. Remove top filter hose and insert
fuel pressure tester (can not loan the tool, have to buy it),
34 psi at idle vac hose connected at FPR, 43 psi hose disconnected
EC 157, supEC18, EC-243-247, haynes 4-3
- compression test (get loaner tool) 149 - 178 psi, difference between
cyliners 14 psi
- fuel injector volume test
- "warm up three way catalyst converter" test
- leak down test (get a loaner tool), online instructions.